Tokyo Daytripper: Yamate Area In Yokohama

Whilst spending a couple of nights in Yokohama recently my wife and I spent our one free day wandering the Yamate area following an all-you-can-eat Chinese lunch in Chinatown. As my wife had never been to Chinatown, that was the main reason for the getaway but a walk was very much in need afterwards.

Just east of Chinatown through the Yamate tunnel on the left are the hills of this historic area known as The Bluff. It features some well-preserved residences from former periods of Japanese history when Westerners settled in the area which was  one of only a few port towns where foreign traders were allowed to reside. Japan had long been an isolated country closed off from the rest of the world and so in the 1850’s there were some overseas traders looking to profit from the newly opened country.

We started off at Yamate Park and the first old residence was Bluff No. 68 (below) which stands across from the Yamate Museum of Tennis. Thankfully its free to enter the house not that there’s that much to see! This time of year is supposed to be the best though as these big houses (by Japanese standards!) recreate the Christmas of countries around the world and possess the traditional dishes and sweets of the country being represented.

IMG_6289  IMG_6292

There’s something Spanish in the style of Berrick Hall (above); the largest Western residence in Yamate which was built in 1930.

Located on the edge of Motomachi Park is the Ehrismann Residence (below) which was the next place we saw and was originally built in 1926 though it did get relocated in 1990 to where it stands now. It was built for a Swiss businessman and among it’s rooms are a sun room and a drawing room!

IMG_6293  IMG_6294

Yamate has many parks, museums and other western-style buildings and is a nice scenic break from the more popular areas of Yokohama. Other sightseeing spots like an old wooden style phone box, a church, international schools and restaurants  indicate the presence of western residents over the last hundred years or so.

IMG_6296  IMG_6297

The green wooden western-style building nearby is the last remaining one of its kind and was built in 1909 (200 yen entry).

IMG_6298  IMG_6299

Bluff No. 234 wasn’t too far away and was built for four tenants to live in with the two storey building including four identical apartments. This one was built shortly after the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and there’s a restaurant in the neighbouring building.

IMG_6295  IMG_6300

We wandered on by the Yokohama Foreign General Cemetery (without going in) but as it was cold and getting dark we decided to cut through America-yama Park to the European feeling Motomachi shopping street running parallel to the Nakamura River. Once I’d finally managed to drag my wife away from the fashion shops we rounded off the evening by strolling along Yamashita Park which is famed for its beautiful waterfront views of the Port of Yokohama.

Posted in Japan Travel, Tokyo Daytripper: | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

TF Top 10……Films Set Around Christmas!

It’s Christmas time and holiday cheer is very much on the horizon which often involves people watching classic festive films like ‘Scrooge‘, ‘A Christmas Carol‘, ‘Santa Clause: The Movie‘, erm ‘Jingle All The Way‘ or many of the special TV episodes filmed for this time of the year.

Others like ‘Home Alone‘ (1990), ‘Die Hard‘ (1988), ‘Gremlins‘ (1984) and ‘Lethal Weapon‘ (1987) which are just set during the Christmas season are also popular choices so I have delved into the Tokyo Fox archives to find some movies (of course ones that I have been to some filming locations of!) with seasonal connections whether it be a major one or a really tenuous link!

So here then, in no particular order, is the TF top 10……

1. In Bruges (2008) – Certainly not the first one that comes to mind when you think of films taking place at Christmas! Two Irish hit-men hide out in Belgium during the holiday season not that it’s at all important to the storyline. The woman at the Relais Bourgondisch Cruyce Hotel, where they stay, is doing something with the Christmas tree in one scene and their angry boss, Ralph Fiennes, shouts at his wife in front of their tree and kids in another.

Dec2010-Jan2011 409  Dec2010-Jan2011 377

2. Ghostbuster II (1989) – The sequel is set in New York City during the Christmas period and culminates on New Years Eve as a crowd of locals sing ‘Auld Lang Syne’. A Christmas tree is visible during at least one scene and I guess one other festive link this has is that it was made (according to some critics!) to sell toys at Christmas time!

P1010316  ghostbustersfirehouse

3. Eyes Wide Shut (1999) – This Stanley Kubrick-directed erotic thriller is not your traditional Christmas film in any way! It opens at a big Christmas party before  Tom Cruise’s jealous character goes on a sexual odyssey so that he can feel equal to his “cheating” wife. However, not all is straight forward as he soon witnesses a secret sex society and people begin dying. It’s lacking in festive tunes and the common joviality shown by many at that time of the year. Christmas trees can be seen throughout as London doubles up for New York in holiday season.

Dec2010-Jan2011 186  Dec2010-Jan2011 044

4. On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (1969) – In his one and only appearance as James Bond, George Lazenby takes the reins of the double agent in the sixth 007 movie. Part of the film takes place at Grindelwald in Switzerland during the Christmas season snow is all around. Festive connections include a Christmas tree at the Piz Gloria clinic, presents for the ladies and there’s even a Christmas song called “Do You Know How Christmas Trees Are Grown.”

Dec2010-Jan2011 157  Schilthorn-03_main

5. Love Actually (2003) – By far the most festive film in this list as a large group of inter-related people are followed for the five weeks leading up to Christmas, exploring their various love-states. An all-star cast take part in this feel-good film.

Dec2010-Jan2011 205  DSC07360

6. About A Boy (2002) – Bachelor Will (Hugh Grant) has no job and doesn’t need to have one as he can just live off the royalties of “Santa’s Super Sleigh”; a Christmas song his father composed in the past. Towards the end of the film we see Will hosting a Christmas gathering at his place with his new extended support system.

Dec2010-Jan2011 433  Christmas trip 2011-2012 423

7. Bridget Jones’s Diary (2001) – Thirty-something singleton Bridget is introduced to Mark Darcy (Colin Firth) at her parents’ Christmas party and is not impressed. He’s snooty and wears Christmas jumpers but as we know that eventually changes over time among several pivotal holiday-themed/snow scenes.

Christmas trip 2011-2012 099  Dec2010-Jan2011 127

8. The English Patient (1996) – A Hungarian cartographer choosing to maintain the assumption by others that he is an Englishman is badly burned in a plane crash during World War II and relays parts of his past via flashbacks and one of these includes a Christmas party scene where amidst a chorus of Silent Night, Katharine (Kristin Scott Thomas) is seduced by Almásy (Ralph Fiennes).

Euro-Trip 2010 028  Tunisia Aug '09 072

9. When Harry Met Sally (1989) – Several Christmas and New Year’s-related scenes take place in this romantic comedy which spans over 15 years.

P1010450  P1010451

10. I am Legend (2007) – A viral outbreak occurs on Christmas Eve 2009 in Manhattan, and quickly spreads across the world. The epidemic seemingly begins in the lead up to the Christmas season and festive decorations can be seen throughout the early parts of this Will Smith movie.

P1010452  P1010344

Bonus: The Bourne Identity (2002) – Remember when Bourne and Marie seeked refuge in the French countryside? Well, they go to stay at her stepbrother’s place where Bourne notices the Christmas lights are still on. That sign of recent occupancy tells him that they have to leave before the owners return. It is also snowing throughout most of the film which is usually a good indication that it’s the holiday season.

Posted in Movie Locations | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

TF Top 10……Movies Filmed In Central America

Before I went travelling around Central America during the Christmas and New Years holiday of 2012/2013 I spent the months before preparing as only I do! Forget internet research and thumbing through guidebooks, for my work beforehand is often all about watching movies (and TV shows) filmed in that part of the world. Thankfully there were just about ten of them which makes it perfect for a Tokyo Fox top 10 listings feature; the perfect aid for anyone going or thinking of going to Central America.

This area, sandwiched between North and South America, possesses seven countries (eight if you include the southern part of Mexico as is often the case) of which five feature here. Sorry but I don’t know of any western productions being shot in Honduras or El Salvador!

Here then, in no particular order, are the Tokyo Fox top 10 movies filmed in Central America…

1. Nicaragua – ‘Carla’s Song‘ (1996): Robert Carlyle leaves Glasgow behind to go to war-torn Nicaragua to help Carla search for her past. Estelí; the third largest city in Nicaragua is where a lot of those scenes were filmed. It is 150km north of capital city Managua.

2. Belize -‘The Mosquito Coast‘ (1986): Based on the novel of the same name, this tells the story of a family leaving the USA in the hope of finding a happier, simpler life in the jungle but things don’t quite go to plan. Hotel Mona Lisa on the south side of Haulover Creek in Belize City was one of the filming locations.

3. Belize – ‘The Dogs Of War‘ (1980): This one is also based on a novel and is about a small, international unit of mercenary soldiers privately hired to depose of the President of a fictional West African country so that a British tycoon can gain access to vast mines of platinum. The movie was shot in Belize City and the Chateau Caribbean hotel was where Christopher Walken’s character stayed upon his arrival.

4. Guatemala – ‘Star Wars Episode IV: A New Hope‘ (1977): The rebel base where Luke Skywalker and co launch their attack to destroy the Death Star and save their people from Darth Vader’s grasp was shot in Tikal. It gets only 19 seconds of screen time and features the Millennium Falcon flying over Yavin 4 which is overseen by a rebel standing on top of Temple IV in the western part of the national park. More details here.

Screen Shot 2012-04-20 at 15.33.50  Screen Shot 2012-04-20 at 15.34.19

5. Guatemala – ‘Moonraker‘ (1979): Tikal features again on screen but this time only for three seconds! 007 travels through the Amazon in search of villain Hugo Drax’s lair, encountering Jaws and other henchmen along the way, before he discovers it supposedly at Temple I of Gran Plaza. More details here.

Screen Shot 2012-08-26 at 20.05.16

6. Panama – ‘Quantum Of Solace‘ (2008): Due to its diversity Panama doubled up for both Bolivia and Haiti. Colon at the Caribbean end of the Canal represents Port Au Prince in the latter and Casco Viejo in Panama City fills in for Bolivia. The ruins of the Old Union Club were revamped for villain Dominic Greene’s party. More details here.

Screen Shot 2012-09-30 at 21.16.52  Screen Shot 2013-01-20 at 21.32.00

7. Panama – ‘The Tailor Of Panama‘ (2001): Another 007 connection for Panama with Pierce Brosnan playing a far seedier agent than Bond. Filming took place in the picturesque old town of Casco Viejo, the lobby and bar of The Marriott Hotel and Gatun Lake. More details here.

8. Panama – ‘Contraband‘ (2012): To protect his brother-in-law from a drug lord, a former smuggler heads to Panama to score millions of dollars in counterfeit bills in this action crime thriller. The Miraflores Locks of the Panama Canal and the  local neighbourhood known as El Chorillo featured in the filming. The latter is an impoverished area within Panama City where some of the more salacious scenes take place.

Screen Shot 2013-11-05 at 09.31.22  Screen Shot 2013-11-05 at 09.32.25

9. Costa Rica – ‘Spy Kids 2: Island Of Lost Dreams‘ (2002): The artificial Arenal Lake which is situated in the northern highlands was one of the locations used in this sequel production along with Manuel Antonio National Park. Known for its beautiful beaches and hiking trails this impressive landscape has white sand beaches, lush foliage, great mountains and tropical forests which made it a prime area to film this sci-fi family adventure film.

10. Costa Rica – ‘1492: Conquest Of Paradise‘ (1992): Directed by Ridley Scott, this overly long flop of a film details the discovery (albeit a fictionalised one!) of the New World by Italian explorer Christopher Columbus and the effect it had on the indigenous population of the Americas. Filming took place at Playa Herradura (Herradura beach) in Puntarenas; a coastal town on the Pacific Ocean located about four km north of Jaco.

Posted in Central American Travel, Movie Locations | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Tokyo Daytripper: Kamakura (2014)

Over a year ago I splashed out 5000 yen on some second hand hiking boots in anticipation of climbing Mount Fuji from base to summit but injury meant I had to pull out of that adventure a few days before we planned to do it. Those boots were still yet to be worn till last month and keen to do some actual hiking in them, I took a trip recently to Kamakura in Kanagawa prefecture.

This was my fourth trip to the city and my first since 2010 when my mate Hugo was over from Sweden for a couple of weeks. I’ve had it in my mind for a while to re-visit the area and see a few different parts but still decided to start my journey at Kita-Kamakura station as I’ve always done. From there I headed up the road to Jochi-ji temple where the Kuzuharagaoka hiking course begins adjacent to it.

DSCN0063  DSCN0066  DSCN0064  DSCN0065

Despite being a weekday the trail wasn’t quite as sparse as I’d hoped with groups of schoolgirls and oji-san clogging up the path where the first stop was Kuzuharagaoka-jinja which possesses two big stones tied to each other with fancy red string. They represent the gods of matchmaking and if you throw some coins in the box you’ll supposedly be married within a week! I kept my change in my pocket as I’m already married although by coincidence I did have my wedding ceremony two days later!

Not too much further along the trail was a pleasant open space (full of school kids on a school outing) possessing the statue of Minamoto no Yoritomo, the samurai founder of the Kamakura Shogunate (1185).

DSCN0067  DSCN0068

Autumn leaves in full red colour were very apparent in this area as well as at a small park not too far away.

DSCN0069  DSCN0070  DSCN0071  DSCN0072  DSCN0073  DSCN0074

I’d never even heard of Zeni-arai Benten when my student recommended this shrine a while back so I took a slight detour from the hiking trail to seek it out as it did sound like an interesting place. It was packed with yet more school kids and towards the far end of the shrine is a cave where it is considered good luck to wash your coins in the clear sacred water. I quickly performed this ritual in a very half-hearted manner and then made my way onto the next place.

DSCN0087  DSCN0077  DSCN0085  DSCN0080  DSCN0081  DSCN0083

I somehow managed to miss Sasuke Inari jinja shrine and didn’t turn back to find it and return to the hiking trail which I kind of regretted as the rest of the day was spent walking along boring roads. Eventually I got to Kōtoku-in temple (200 yen entry) which plays host to the 13.4 metre Daibutsu (Great Buddha) and even after so many visits, it’s still an awe-inspiring sight. Quite easy to see why it’s a national treasure and with clear blue skies and a hint of Autumn foliage it made for an even more beautiful natural backdrop.

DSCN0091  DSCN0093  DSCN0094  DSCN0098  DSCN0096  DSC07717

My original plan was to do a few other sights (such as the beach at Yurigahama) before journeying on to the Tsurugaoka Hachimangu complex but I didn’t wanna use too much energy up ahead of a busy wedding weekend so just went as direct as I could between what are probably the two biggest sights in Kamakura. This inevitably meant another dull walk rather than the hiking trails I craved.

DSC07729  DSCN0109

The highlight of this place for me was the 60 steps that lead up to Hongu (Main Shrine) from Maiden and Wakamiya Shrine. As it was all free to enter I decided to visit the shrine museum (200 yen) which features some time-honoured treasures including weapons and objects of craftwork. It’s a very small museum and not really worth it unless you have some deep found interest in such things.

DSCN0112  DSCN0113

Within the precinct of the shrine, there are many historical buildings and places including the park which is an oasis of lotus ponds, lush greenery, a scenic bridge and a mountain view. It is the symbolic centre of the samurai government and stages religious, political and ceremonial activities.

DSCN0114  DSCN0115

There was a hiking course quite near to this shrine but enough was enough and so I ended up just walking the short distance to Kamakura station to take the train home. Three days later I would go hiking again but this time with my wife, her parents and the family dog. We went hiking in Sandankyo in Hiroshima prefecture and our wedding was sandwiched somewhere in the middle of these two hiking trips!

Posted in Tokyo Daytripper: | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 19 Comments

Hiroshima 2014: Hiking In Sandankyo

With the Autumn leaves in bloom my father-in-law thought it would be nice to journey on up to the Sandankyo area the day after our wedding shenanigans had taken place. As part of the Western Chugoku Mountains Quasi-National Park this canyon is designated as a national place of scenic beauty and is considered one of the top 5 special valleys of scenic beauty and one of the top 100 scenic spots in Japan.

DSC07760  DSC07762  DSC07799  DSC07764

Sandankyo is about an hours drive from Hiroshima City and whilst the majority of the signs are only in Japanese, there is an English map available at the information desk at the main entrance. The whole area is fairly vast with many hiking courses ranging from five minutes to five hours which feature some fine picturesque spots including waterfalls, caves, streams, rocks, rapids, deep pools and the Autumn foliage.

DSC07766  407  DSC07763  DSC07771  DSC07767  DSC07768  DSC07772  DSC07775  404  406

The scenery reminded me of some of the places I went hiking on the south island of New Zealand and parts of Australia. Nearly all tourists here were local as I guess very few international visitors to Hiroshima venture too far from it’s major two sites. The benefit of me having a family here who know the area well and can take me to such little known gems like this.

DSC07778  DSC07776  DSC07780  DSC07782

The hiking course was all fairly easy but one still needs to concentrate as the paths are quite thin in places with sheer cliffs and gushing water alongside which you need to be aware of.

DSC07794  DSC07783

I didn’t know it at the time but our destination was Kurobuchi; an area 2.7 km away where we had to take a boat across the water amid a beautiful setting of tall standing cliffs and dark green waters. It took about 5o minutes to reach this place and the boat, propelled by an oar (pole?) rather than a motor, was a 500 yen return trip per person.

DSC07788  DSC07790  DSC07793  DSC07795

We had some lunch at the Kurobuchi Lodge. Oden and onigiri (rice balls) were on the menu in the tatami lunchroom and it’s not usual to mention the toilets but due to their location they’re worthy of a quick mention. They were situated across the gorge and could only be reached by a rope bridge and as I crossed it, ‘Indiana Jones & The Temple Of Doom‘ (1984) came to mind with images of Indy using his sword to cut the bridge in half.

DSC07797  DSC07798

Later that evening we went out to a rather expensive sushi restaurant; my first time to ever eat such food in a non-kaiten sushi (conveyor belt sushi) environment.

DSC07801  DSC07804

Posted in Japan Travel | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 5 Comments

The Wedding In Hiroshima Pt III – The Soundtrack

As I mentioned in ‘The Wedding In Hiroshima Pt I – The Ceremony‘ one of my two tasks ahead of our wedding was to make a soundtrack CD. I thought it would just be background music whilst everyone ate their food at the reception party which is why we decided to play pretty safe with nothing too heavy or loud. We really didn’t know how it would be used so selected a few songs each and then decided on some mutual ones such as ‘Can’t Take My Eyes Off You‘, ‘Hey Jude’, ‘Tiny Dancer’ and ‘California Dreamin’.

IMG_6230  IMG_6231

Sadly there wasn’t room in the playlist for the Angry Anderson classic ‘Suddenly‘ which quite memorably was the soundtrack to the greatest soap wedding of all time! That was when Scott and Charlene got married in the Aussie TV soap ‘Neighbours‘ in 1988 which was watched by nearly 20 million people. It was also used in the final episode of the BBC series ‘Gavin & Stacey‘ (S03E06) and the opening chords of the song were never far from my head on our wedding day. True!

As we were just about to enter the wedding reception area we could hear ‘Always Be My Baby‘ by Mariah Carey blasting out of the stereo. Certainly not my choice of music and at that stage we had no idea how the songs were being chosen or whether the CD had just been put on and left to play.

Once the toast had been done by the oldest man in the place it was apparent that there was someone in charge of music and playing it at the right time. ‘Dreams‘ by The Cranberries has a lovely intro and that kicked in right on cue at the moment everyone said ‘kanpai‘ (cheers) which was a lovely moment. Such fabricated atmosphere may not be so appreciated at football matches (although I don’t mind it too much….within reason!) these days but in this environment it was cherished by my wife and I.

My father-in-law’s slide show on our England trip in the Summer was accompanied by ‘Time After Time‘ which is a hugely popular song in Japan. This Cyndi Lauper track was the only one I actually had to buy especially for the day so I guess I should be happy that it got repeated about five times during this part of the party. Gotta get value for money on my £1 purchase!

DSC07752  IMG_6183

When it came to the traditional cutting of the cake ‘Don’t Look Back In Anger‘ by Oasis was playing in the background which was not actually my choice for the CD but that of my wife who rates this as one of her most favourite songs. By chance we cut into the cake just as the chorus got going. Again, it was a fitting moment!

359  363

American singer Josh Groban’s 2003 version of ‘You Raise Me Up‘ was pretty much chosen as an ironic joke song which has been a guilty pleasure of mine ever since it was used in the final show of long running BBC2 comedy music quiz ‘Never Mind The Buzzcocks‘ (S22E11). Unbelievably, this over-the top power ballad was the soundtrack to my final emotional speech and the key change (everyone loves a good key change right?!) came about as my wife and I were walking hand in hand out of the reception as our wedding day concluded.

393  396

Other songs to feature throughout the evening included ‘Your Song‘ by Elton John and ‘Let It Be’ by The Beatles but sadly the majority of the instrumental tunes chosen by me were not used which was a shame. Not the end of the world but as a frustrated DJ who regularly uses songs in my English lessons and loves many of life’s moments to be soundtracked, this was a tad disappointing.

Of course, if I’d taken a bit more interest in organising the wedding day beforehand I could’ve maybe dictated what music be used and when. John Williams’ ‘Imperial March‘ and the ‘Post horn Gallop‘ (the music which Leicester City FC come onto the pitch at the start of each and every match) would definitely have been played!

You can read “The Wedding In Hiroshima Pt I – The Ceremony” here

You can read “The Wedding In Hiroshima Pt II – The Reception” here

Posted in Family, Japan Life, Music | Tagged , , , , , , | 2 Comments

The Wedding In Hiroshima Pt II – The Reception

Following the church service we were led down many sloping steps through the inner parts of the complex. We were put in a room with the make-up artist and a staff member, presumably to keep us out of the way whilst the guests filed in and sat down at their tables.

IMG_1055  IMG_1056

After a while and some walkie-talkie conversations between staff we exited to the sound of clapping and cheering as we made our way over to the bride and groom table positioned in front of four tables of guests.

The oldest man in attendance; Rina’s father’s 82 year old uncle was given the job of proposing the toast and after that French dishes which were part of a seven-course meal came and went (foie gras, potage soup, poisson, wagyu beef, roast pork etc) and they were all very nice. There were many events in-between these courses which were compered by Rina’s cousin Mayumi.

IMG_6180  IMG_6184

My speech came around sooner than expected. I had prepared a Japanese speech but didn’t expect to have to introduce myself before that. I was told to do it in English and that Mayumi would translate but after having the most basic of things translated I decided to throw out a few lines in Japanese. The proper speech about how we met and my feelings back then followed on from those nervous lines and I’m told that everyone could actually understand my thick accent but I’m still not too sure about that!

IMG_6176  IMG_6179

Rina’s speech soon followed which included stuff about how blo*dy great I am (!!), how she found the meaning of true love and trust, being proposed to on Christmas Day in Myanmar last year as well as tanabata when we signed the legal marriage documents.

A bit further down the line was a slide show presentation from my father-in-law on a specially erected big screen to show the extended family what our trip to London in August was like. A bit strange to see so many shots of my parents house on there!

IMG_6183  IMG_6185

What followed next were a round of one minute speeches from almost every family  member. Of course everyone was very complimentary though the guy who said I reminded him of Christian Ronaldo had obviously drunk too much by that stage!

Weddings in Japan are seemingly all about speeches and they kept on coming even after everyone that wanted to speak had spoken! One of Rina’s dads friends gave an interesting speech about the similarities between the UK and Japan with some interesting stats about the rarity of marriage between British and Japanese. Surprising to me as a good percentage of my friends are in such relationships!

I guess if stereotypes are to be believed, it wouldn’t be a true Japanese event without some karaoke including songs from both my in-laws. Thankfully, the audience was spared my voice though I was starting to panic at one stage thinking that I may have to entertain!

IMG_6191  IMG_6193  IMG_6195  DSC07752  DSC07749  IMG_6186

The traditional ‘cutting of the cake’ was next which included us taking turns to feed each other a piece and naturally I was given a piece that filled my mouth and was way too much to digest!

359  363  DSC07755  DSC07756

One of the most emotional moments of the day was Rina’s thank you letter which she read out aloud to her parents standing proud at the other end of the room. My only job was to hold the microphone whilst Rina thanked them for guiding her through life and helping her become the woman she is today.

380  383  393  396

That still wasn’t the last speech however as a microphone stand was placed in front of me. Surely I didn’t have to embarrass myself with some more ramblings! Of course I did and after thanking the guests for coming and my wife for putting up with my constant bad jokes I moved on to thanking my in-laws. This is where I lost it and actually broke down into tears for a few seconds before regaining a bit of composure and finishing off what I wanted to say.

397  398

That pretty much proved to be the finale and we walked out together to an open-top car which drove us back up to the main complex where we got changed and returned to reality. A long and tiring day had come to an end and what a lovely, memorable one it was to mark this milestone in our life. To be fair, I was not so keen beforehand to have any kind of event but went along with it all for the sake of my wife and her parents and I’m very glad I did. Seeing the smiles on their faces throughout the day (particularly her father who was grinning like a Cheshire cat all day!) made it all worthwhile and I am very grateful for the time and effort they put into organising such a splendid day that we can savour forever.

You can read “The Wedding In Hiroshima Pt I – The Ceremony” here 

You can read “The Wedding In Hiroshima Pt III – The Soundtrack” here

Posted in Family, Japan Life | Tagged , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

The Wedding In Hiroshima Pt I – The Ceremony

Since we got married on Tanabata (7th July) conversations about having some kind of wedding have come and gone but eventually we decided to have some kind of party with her extended family in Hiroshima. However, whilst I was visiting my eldest sister and her family in Indonesia last month, my wife was over in Hiroshima upgrading the event to a church wedding and reception party which I didn’t even really know about until very recently. I only really started to take interest in it the week before when I was told to make a compilation CD and cobble together some kind of Japanese speech.

So, on the 23rd November we arrived at Marriyell; a kind of Disneyland-esque western style wedding complex that stood out high in the mountains amid its more normal, local surrounding. First of all, we were taken to a huge suite where I was to put on my tuxedo for the occasion. There was a big changing room in there where I changed my top with one of the staff members present whilst my wife was on the other side of the curtain which all seemed a bit weird and unnecessary! I may have just done 21 days without any alcohol, soda, chocolate, crisps, biscuits, ice-cream, junk food and so on BUT that certainly didn’t mean I had a body to show off to anyone!

DSC07731  DSC07732

With the ceremony not starting until 3pm there was a lot of time to kill before then so we took a quick look around the place but with other ceremonies taking place we were fairly restricted so returned to the room. Whilst Rina was taken to another room to get ready I had a nap, caught up with some podcasts and played around on my phone which was certainly not how I ever thought I’d be spending my wedding day!

I was feeling pretty bored by the time I was eventually rescued and taken to my wife’s dressing room. When I opened the door I was quite surprised to see her sitting there in a white wedding dress as I wasn’t expecting that.

DSC07740  300

After taking a few photos we were summoned downstairs on a day where we basically just did what we were told and were ordered around (in a very, nice pleasant way of course!). All the staff were waiting at the foot of the stairs and as soon as I took Rina by the hand and led her carefully down the steps they all started clapping; a slightly surreal theme which would continue throughout the day to the very end. A Rolls Royce then drove us down to the lower lot where the cathedral was located.

302  303  IMG_1016  IMG_1009  319  DSC07733

The reason I knew very little about the day was not just through ignorance but partly by choice as I might have got a lot more nervous if I knew what exactly was coming up throughout the day. Having already been married for 4.5 months there was probably far less pressure on us than if this day had been the actual day to tie the knot!

Fake foreign priests are a well known part of wedding days in Japan for those wanting a more authentic western-style wedding but I never gave it a thought that we would have one too! A Canadian priest (he might have been a real one but I’m sceptical!) was waiting just inside to greet us and we had a quick dress rehearsal of how the imminent ceremony would proceed not that I could really take in all the instructions!

330  DSC07747  DSC07748  DSC07745

Not long after that it was the real thing and the church doors swung open and I walked in behind the priest stopping to bow at the point where the seats were situated. I then walked down the aisle going past a load of people who I’d never ever met! I couldn’t really remember where to stop but thankfully the choir singers seated to my left gestured to me where to halt!

Moments later, the organist started playing ‘Here Comes The Bride‘ and Rina and her dad walked down the aisle to the sound of mobile phone photographs being taken and as I had the best unrestricted view in the place I thought I may as well take a few shots as well!

IMG_6167  IMG_6168

The ceremony thereafter flew by in a mix of English and Japanese language featuring a couple of hymns and prayers. Saying “Yes” (to confirm my name) and “I do” at the right moments as well as lifting the veil all went by without a hitch. The exchanging of rings and signing of the marriage register went less smoothly! Firstly, I couldn’t push the ring on her finger properly which she did herself as she reached to take my ring off the cushion thing! Then, over at the register I was first to sign but the ink didn’t work so well for the first few letters of my signature and then Rina wrote Rian instead of her name!

332  333  334  337  342  345

The ‘Wedding March‘ then accompanied us as walked back down the aisle and were led into a room whilst the 20 or so guests were shuffled into position for a group photograph which we then joined before we posed for pictures with other guests and then walked on down through a long sloping stepped corridor to the reception area for the next part of the wedding day….

IMG_1040  IMG_1046  348  350

You can read “The Wedding In Hiroshima Pt II – The Reception” here

Posted in Family, Japan Life | Tagged , , , , , , , | 10 Comments

On Screen #6 – Afghanistan

Britain’s war in Afghanistan ended recently after 13 years with the main British base at Camp Bastion being handed over to the locals who will be left to their own devices regarding the security of a province which has proved difficult to tame and has seen 453 Britons killed.

This landlocked Central Asian country has been torn by conflict for decades and for that reason (and pretty much that reason only!) has attracted the attention of film makers and TV executives who have used the various wars as a backdrop to tell their story. It should be no surprise that almost none of these productions have actually been shot in its actual location. Many countries have filled in for Afghanistan and it’s this fakery which attracts the interest of Tokyo Fox.

Our Girl‘ (2014) aired on BBC1 in October with former Eastenders star Lacey Turner starring as the army medic deployed to Afghanistan as part of a a British Army infantry. She played Molly Dawes; the young working class adult who gets caught up in a love triangle of sorts. Serra Della Camp, a beautiful wildlife reserve in the Bonte Bok mountain range north of Cape Town in South Africa filled in for the country and the crew spent two and a half months filming there.

Unknown  p0276qgh

The same set was actually used for ‘Bluestone 42‘ (2013); the BBC3 comedy drama series about a British bomb disposal detachment in Helmand Province. How nice of the BBC to save the license fee payers money by squeezing two shows out of the same set! The comedy focuses on the camaraderie between the soldiers, situational comedy, bureaucracy, conflicts of interests and relationships which is all in stark contrast to the deadly situations the potty-mouth soldiers are required to defuse. The end of the second series would’ve been a fitting and perfect place to bow out but I’m one of those rare people who doesn’t mind his favourite shows coming to an end. However, it will return for a third series in 2015.

5468322-low_res-bluestone-42  images

There was certainly no faking Helmand Province though in ‘Ross Kemp In Afghanistan‘ (2008); the British documentary series which aired on Sky One for five episodes followed by another five for the follow up series which was titled ‘Ross Kemp: Return To Afghanistan‘ (2008). Viewers were taken up close and personal to the realities of battle and the crew were even pinned down by fire from the Taliban, with Kemp enduring bullets passing within inches of him whilst in the second series he ran into a possible minefield.

RossKemp460  RK-Action

Haven’t seen it myself but ‘Combat Hospital‘ (2006) was a Canadian TV show (one season, 13 episodes) set in Kandahar revolving around the life and work of doctors and nurses from the International Security Assistance Force (ISAF). Its creator actually travelled to Afghanistan to conduct first-hand research at a small military hospital where stories from medical personnel were collected to add realism to the show. Real images taken during that visit were blended in with all the other main Toronto-based scenes.

images-1  july11kandahar_1

Onto movies then and Ben Stiller’s romantic adventure comedy drama ‘The Secret Life Of Walter Mitty‘ (2013) featured Afghanistan in the latter part with the Skogafoss waterfall and Vatnajökull National Park in Iceland used to replicate those scenes as this remote European country was used extensively for filming playing itself as well as Greenland. This film is unique in a sense as it includes Afghanistan for reasons other than the war!

410075-61686550-742c-11e3-b21a-c1acf4d34253  408242-6218b180-742c-11e3-b21a-c1acf4d34253

It may be a great story but I wasn’t such a fan of ‘Lone Survivor‘ (2013), particularly the first three quarters of the movie which felt like a propaganda video at times and was more concerned with over-long military-style action scenes instead of characterisation. Bagram Airfield and the ancient city of Bagram itself are seen on screen but all was shot in New Mexico with Kirtland Air Force Base in Albuquerque doubling for the former.

In fact, all filming took place in New Mexico (USA) in Chilili and the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in Santa Fe National Forest with the latter filling in as the Hindu Kush mountain range that stretches between Afghanistan and Pakistan whilst the former played host to several battles scenes as well as the Pashtun village protected in reality by Afghan villagers out of duty to their 2000 year old code of honour which requires a tribe to undertake the responsibility of safeguarding an individual against his enemies and protecting him at all costs. Their fight against the taliban continues…

Unknown-1  article-2538218-1A635C2E00000578-373_634x409

Born Of War‘ (2013) is set in part in the Wakhan Corridor; the narrow strip of territory in the north-east of Afghanistan extending into China and separating Tajikistan and Pakistan. This time it was Amman in Jordan which filled in for the war-torn country.

The Patrol‘ (2013) claims to be the “British answer to Hurt Locker” and is an action drama film set in Helmland Province in 2006 exploring the relationships between a group of British soldiers as they grow disillusioned with the Afghan war. It was filmed entirely on location in the Agafahy desert which is about 40 miles from Marrakech in Morocco.

the-patrol-tom-petch-owain-arthur-nicholas-beveney-daniel-fraser-2013-raindance-movie-film-review-shelf-heroes  The Patrol: film still of soldiers in camp

157 minutes may be too long for a movie where we all know the outcome but ‘Zero Dark Thirty‘ (2012) still provides a very tense and breathtaking finale as the raid on Bin Laden’s hideout (filmed on a specially constructed set in the deserts of Jordan) is played out on screen. The scenes of the Navy SEALs flying in to siege the place are compelling and with it shot to replicate the zero dark thirty (military code for the time 00:30) raid it brings another sense of meaning to the word dark in a film with very dark themes.

ZD30_2  zero-dark-thirty-01-470-75

In ‘Afghan Luke‘ (2011) we see a Canadian journalist going after a story of possible mutilation of corpses in this rocky, impoverished land which appear increasingly incomprehensible and surreal as the protagonist undergoes a series of bizarre adventures. The scenery is quite beautiful actually but naturally those Afghan mountains are not the real thing as British Columbia and Nova Scotia in Canada substitutes for Shirac and the ISAF Base.

Unknown  Unknown-1

Kunar Province in the northeastern part of Afghanistan appears on screen in ‘Iron Man‘ (2008). It’s where Tony Stark is captured and imprisoned in a cave after the army convoy is ambushed. Alabama Hills at Lone Pine on Route 395 in central California provide the strange Afghan rock formations. Once he’s escaped from captivity in the prototype metal suit he lands 20 miles further south amid the white sands of the Olancha Sand Dunes. Edwards Air Force Base in southern California doubled up as Bagram Air Base.

Screen Shot 2014-11-16 at 20.36.57  Screen Shot 2014-11-16 at 20.37.42

Quite possibly one of the best films to be set in Afghanistan is ‘The Kite Runner‘ (2007); an incredibly moving story about two childhood friends and what follows in their adult lives. The themes of friendship, family, human values, and courage under fire all feature and left a lasting impression on me.

The film flashes back and forth and features Kabul in 1978 with production taking place in the cities of Kashgar and Tashkurgan in the Xinjiang region of China with film extras supplied by the Ugyur Community of the Autonomous Region of Xinjiang. Afghan scenes shot in the oasis city of Kashgar, China’s most western city, include the kite tournament and the mosque where Amir prays whilst Tashkurgan was used for the opening kite duel scenes, the Pomegranate tree, and the Taliban compound where Amir meets Sohrab. 

Screen Shot 2014-11-18 at 12.14.58  Screen Shot 2014-11-18 at 23.58.31  Screen Shot 2014-11-19 at 00.02.32  Screen Shot 2014-11-19 at 00.10.12

Sly Stallone’s ‘Rambo III‘ (1988) sees the main man go to rescue a longtime friend and mentor from a Soviet prison camp in Afghanistan. Whilst in Pakistan a weapons supplier  agrees to take Rambo to a village deep in the Afghan desert where the usual carnage of such a film takes place with the Mujahideen warriors eventually supporting the hero in his mission. Peshawar in Pakistan played host to the Afghan market scene.

RamboIIIcredits  Ramboiii45

The Middle-Eastern landscapes in ‘The Beast‘ (1988) were recreated in Israel (if I can be so vague to pinpoint a movies shooting locations to a whole country!). This movie, which often goes by the name of ‘The Beast Of War‘, follows a Russian tank crew during the Russian occupation of Afghanistan which finds itself separated from fellow tankers and relentless pursued by Mujaheddin fighters.

600px-TB-RPG_01a  600px-TB-RPG7WomanA  600px-TB-SMLE-RidgeA  600px-TB-RGD5Grenade02A

For Timothy Dalton’s debut outing as 007 in ‘The Living Daylights‘ (1987) Afghanistan was actually filmed in the desert of Ouarzazate in Morocco which has been used in many films. The standout sequence in “Afghanistan” sees Bond escape from a Russian air base by aircraft. Whilst trying to diffuse a bomb he is attacked by henchman, Necros and as they scrap away the loading ramp opens and a net containing opium bags tumbles out of the back of the plane taking Bond and Necros with it. The net remains attached to the aircraft as the two men fight to the death clinging on to it as it hangs in the wind.

Screen Shot 2014-03-14 at 11.47.11  Screen Shot 2014-03-14 at 11.43.48

Tom Selleck starred as a heavy drinking pilot hired by a society heiress to find her missing father in adventure-romance film ‘High road to China‘ (1983). Their journey in two biplanes takes them through six countries with mount Kamenjak near Rijeka in Croatia appearing to look like Afghanistan.

Adapted from the Rudyard Kipling short story, ‘The Man Who Would Be King‘ (1975) starred Sean Connery, Michael Caine and Christopher Plummer. It was shot on location in Morocco with the Atlas Mountains, perennial favourite Ouarzazate as well as Glen Canyon in Utah (USA) used to replicate the historical region of Kafiristan which is now known as Nuristan in modern-day Afghanistan.

The events of the original Flashman’s exploits in Afghanistan feature in a brief flashback in ‘Royal Flash‘ (1975) with the head of the Rugby School recounting this tale. ‘Khyber Patrol‘ (1954) was about the struggle between the British army and local tribes who want help from Russia. It takes place on the Afghanistan border although the outdoor sets look remarkably similar to the ones used in many westerns of the time!

* Inspired by real-life events, ‘Rock The Kasbah‘ (2015) tells the story of a has-been rock manager played by Bill Murray helping a Pashtun teenager with a beautiful voice and the courageous dream of becoming the first woman to compete on national television in Afghanistan’s version of ‘American Idol‘. Filming was done in Morocco and Afghanistan itself.

So there we have it, over a dozen movies set in Afghanistan but filmed in the likes of South Africa, Canada, China, Iceland, Jordan, Morocco, Croatia, Pakistan, Israel and the USA. Apart from the Ross Kemp series’ (and the news!) the only time I’ve seen the real Afghan landscape is in a short ten minute documentary titled ‘Skateistan: To Live and Skate Kabul‘ (Watch it here) which follows the lives of two young skateboarders from Afghanistan and juxtaposes the harsh reality of life in Kabul with the hopes and ambitions of the country’s children.

Screen Shot 2014-11-19 at 10.25.55  Screen Shot 2014-11-19 at 10.30.04

Now there have been loads of war-related films and TV programmes set in Afghanistan and it is nigh on impossible to list them all here. This is just a selection of the one’s I’ve seen or know about but if you know of any others then please let me know in the comments or on twitter via @tokyo_fox

* Updated in December 2016

You can see previous On Screen articles by clicking on the links below:

On Screen #1 – Vietnam (Click here)

On Screen #2 – Istanbul (Click here)

On Screen #3 – Myanmar (Burma) (Click here)

On Screen #4 – Brazil (Click here)

On Screen #5 – Thailand (Click here)

Posted in Movie Locations | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 6 Comments

TF Flashback: Bungy Thrillogy Pt III (2002)

In the third and final part of this Bungy Thrillogy series, Tokyo Fox looks back to Sunday 24th March 2002; the day of my triple bungy jump. I was travelling around New Zealand for a few months on the back of a years working holiday in Australia and was in Queenstown on the South Island. Thanks to the journal that I kept at the time it is now possible to recall the events of that day…

“At 6.30pm I walked on up to the gondola to meet American Chris who was jumping The Ledge with me 60 minutes later when sunset had been and gone. In the seven hours or so since the second bungy jump I had hardly given this third one any thought whatsoever but as we rode the gondola steeply up to skyline a few nerves crept up on me though they were no comparison for the earlier jumps.

images  images

When we got to the top we had amazing panoramic views of Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables and was actually looking down on the hut which we’d be running and jumping out of within the hour. My original plan (well, after my confidence had grown from the Kawarau Bridge and Nevis Highwire jumps) was to run off the ledge and do a few somersaults but I was now slightly worried about the waist harness doing me damage in the groin area!

We first watched fellow ‘Thrillogy’ jumper Danish Dennis take the run and dive and then when the skyline had darkened it was time for us to take the plunge into darkness. In some ways this 47 metre urban bungy looked worse as it was located 400 metres above Queenstown with the forest and gondola below. Unlike the previous jump sites, we could see out for miles over the town and surrounding area  (well, we could see the areas lit up in the distance anyway!) and then it was time to get into the harness and complete the most challenging day of my life yet. I went before Chris yet again but with very few nerves this time. I had to walk to the edge to look out and wave to the moon (the camera was in the same direction!) before retreating to the back of the hut ready for as long a run up as possible.

bungy3.1  bungy3.2

The instructor then said that I could go “when you’re ready” so I didn’t hang about as I ran and dived off into darkness. Within a couple of seconds I felt the tug of the bungy cord but this was not around my ankles. Instead it was around my groin area and as I sat in the harness swinging in the night skyline the pressure on that part of my anatomy increased! It was only as I was being winched back up (having had to to hook the rope on myself after it was dangled down to me) that the instructor suggested I lie back in my harness more.

bungy3.3

After I’d seen Chris jump and the viewed the video footage of it (as well as receiving another blo*dy A4 certificate!) he gave Dennis and I a lift home in his car. I “treated” myself to a McDonalds meal for dinner but didn’t really have any kind of adrenalin rushing or pumping its way through my body which felt very anti-climactic in a way.”

You can read ‘TF Flashback – Bungy Thrillogy Pt I (2002)’ here 

bungy1.1  bungy1.3

You can read ‘TF Flashback – Bungy Thrillogy Pt II (2002)’ here 

bungy2.2  bungy2.1

Posted in Action & Adventure, Australasia Travel | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment