Kansai Trip 2011 Pt IV: Kobe

When I left Kobe behind (after a short stop-off) at the end of 2005 I had a very low opinion of the place and thought it to be really boring. I realised this time that my mistake then had been to get off at Kobe station rather than Sannomiya which is the heart of Kobe and has a nice feel about it. The reason for getting off here on the way back to my Osaka hotel from Himeji was to meet up with mates John and Neil of whom the latter had recently moved nearby. I had a quick look round the place before meeting them. No major sites but I did go to the Earthquake Park to see the memorial pictured below. The clock was damaged at 5.46 on the morning of January 17th and now indicates that time as an eternal reminder of the earthquake.

Whilst it wasn’t of magnitude compared to the one in Tokyo on March 11th it obviously still had a devestating impact on the area with over 6,000 dead, 415,000 injured, 100,000 homes devastated and 185,000 homes in need of partial reconstruction.

I didn’t have the time or energy to bother going to the Port of Kobe Earthquake Memorial Park which preserves part of a concrete pier destroyed back in 1995. Some of the pictures below were taken on my previous trip and give a good idea of how strong the earthquake was.

     

On my way to meet Neil (pictured) and John I passed by an Indian restaurant named Gaylord! Its actually a worldwide chain and I have seen their restaurants in Hong Kong and London. I am still amused each time I see the restaurant name!

 

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Kansai Filming Locations: The Last Samurai (2003)

Most of this 2003 epic was shot in New Zealand but there were still a few interesting scenes filmed in the Kansai region of Japan. 12 minutes into the film sees the appearance of Chion-in Temple in Kyoto albeit with a bit of CGI. Although the steps lead to a temple it is not directly at the top or as dominating as the one in the picture (below) Four men including Tom Cruise are seen climbing the steep steps which are on the other side of the main entrance gate which is protected by two guards in the film.

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The action moves on to Daikodo (Main Hall) at Engyoji temple on the 41 minute mark which is where Algren (Cruise) meets Katsumoto (Watanabe). This is at the top of Mount Shosha in Himeji (west of Osaka) and provides the hilltop backdrop for Katsumoto’s mountain village.

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There is even a laminated picture card among the information pamphlets on the little souvenir shop counter in this building and it features five screenshots from ‘The Last Samurai‘.

The garden temple is opposite the wooden bit featured above and appears after 71 minutes as Watanabe and Cruise talk about something or another. The DVD extra’s reveal that it wasn’t filmed during the cherry blossom season and that those flowers were added to the place.

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The Buddha seen below also features for a few moments. No photos can be taken inside (I presume) so I settled for a sly zoom-in one from outside.

 

It’s not all Kansai though as there is a very brief shot of the Imperial Palace in Tokyo on 79 minutes. Its the typical picture postcard type view of the place which I have seen and photographed many times over the years.

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How to get to Engyoji: Take bus #8 at Shinki Bus Terminal East gate of Himeji Kita station (if coming from JR Himeji station then exit the station and turn left and you will see the bus station across the road). Get off at the final stop which is ‘Shosha Ropeway’. A special ticket (1300 yen) gets you return bus and ropeway tickets. The temple entrance is 500 yen payable when you get to the top of the ropeway.

For other Japan filming locations click on the links below:

You Only Live Twice    Lost In Translation    Kill Bill    Babel    Godzilla    Walk Don’t Run   Into The Sun    Monster    Wasabi    The Grudge    Ju:On The Grudge    The Ramen Girl    The Toxic Avenger Pt II    The Wolverine    Memoirs Of A Geisha    The Last Samurai    House Of Bamboo

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Kansai Trip 2011 Pt III: Himeji

The second full-day of my trip saw me go west to Himeji which is famous for its castle. At the moment its not too much to look at though and nor will it be for for the next five years as its under reconstruction and basically has a huge bag covering up the main part.  Luckily I saw the castle five years ago in its full glory (below) so I wasn’t too gutted to see it in its current state. On that previous visit it was closed but I did see the inside of it this time.

 

If you’ve ever seen James Bond in You Only Live Twice(1967) then you may recognise this place as the ninja training school. I had one screenshot with me and was most surprised to see that the stone statue thing behind Sean Connery was still knocking about. It can be found in the West Bailey and needless to say I was the only person in the whole place who took an interest in this piece of concrete!

 

Despite being made nearly 45 years ago it was still possible to locate some of the shooting scenes which feature below.

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Another film to be shot at Himeji-jo was Akira Kurosawa’s ‘Kagemusha‘ (The Shadow Warrior) in 1980 which is set in medieval times. This movie became known to me as it was bankrolled by 20th Century Fox who were convinced by George Lucas and Francis Ford Coppola to fund the remainder of the film in exchange for its international distribution rights after Toho Studios couldn’t fulfill the budget demands of the film.

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Himeji-jo wasn’t actually my first stop of the day though as I took a 30 minute bus ride to Mount Shosha which needed an additional ropeway to get there. The reason for visiting this mountain was to visit the sacred and peaceful Engyoji temple which is a nice 25 minute walk away. This mountaintop temple complex gets you away from the really big crowds and the wooden auditorium of Daikodo is lovely though not as old as one may think as in true Japanese fashion it was dismantled, repaired and restored in 1959 having originally been constructed at the end of the 15th century.

     

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Kansai Trip 2011 Pt II: Kyoto

I spent two of my days on this trip in Kyoto with the majority of the places having some movie relevance but there were a few other ones which didn’t feature in any Hollywood production. It is often said that while Tokyo is the capital of Japan, Kyoto is the real Japan but I don’t see how that can be true when almost everyone there is a tourist!

After Fushimi-Inari I went to Nijo-jo which I had failed to visit on my two previous visits to Kyoto due to time constraints and maybe a lack of energy on my part if my memory serves me correctly. In all honesty I don’t think I really missed out on too much those times! It was nice enough and the palace gardens were fairly pleasant but it didn’t possess too much in the way of the wow-factor…….or maybe I was in a bad mood after being told by the official photographer that I couldn’t use my tripod. Unlike Japanese people I actually questioned him as to why and the best he could say was that it was dangerous which was just laughable when the place was almost desserted! There was nothing at the castle entrance about tripods not being allowed but I couldn’t be bothered to contest it too much by going back to the ticket office to complain. He probably just hates tripods as they are preventing him from getting money from taking group photos and so on in front of Ninomaru Palace!

 

I went to Kinkakuji which is known as Golden Pavillion in English. I visited here in December 2004 and stubbornly refused to go in a year later with my mate Asif but this was my first time to be in Kyoto out of Winter season so I went in, took a few photos (the first time to do so with a digital camera) and left!

 

Kiyomizudera temple was next on my list and took an eternity to get to thanks to the amount of traffic on the Kyoto roads mid-afternoon. Sadly it was difficult to capture the perfect picture as the sun was shining so brightly not that it stopped the masses from taking their photos! The one below is the best of a bad bunch!

 

A couple of days later I returned to Kyoto and went to Yoshimine-dera (mentioned in Kansai Trip 2011 Pt II) and then on to Chion-in temple. Somehow I got lost on the way and ended up at the top of the huge steps which saved me from ascending them and becoming out of breath like most other tourists. I didn’t look around this temple so much.

 

Heian-jingu shrine (below) was close by to that which is one of my favourite Kyoto temples. Popular but not on the level of Kinkajuji and Kiyomizudera and with enough space to wander fairly freely. This time I paid to go in its gardens and as nice as they were I am not sure the 600 yen entrance fee is such good value for money.

     

Gion was my final port of call in Kyoto. It’s famed for being the geisha district but I knew there was pretty much bugger all chance of actually seeing a real one. Needless to say but this pretty little area was packed full of tourists. I was very tired by this stage so didn’t hang about too long as I wanted to meet up with my mates John and Neil for some early evening drinks at The Hub which is a chain claiming to be a British bar though in reality its far removed from being anything too like one.

     

On the way to and from Kyoto I passed the giant Meiji chocolate bar near Takatsuki station and tried to snap it but it was difficult to capture it too well due to the speed of the train at that time.

 

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Kyoto Filming Locations: Memoirs Of A Geisha (2005)

The majority of Memoirs of a Geisha(2005) was made in the USA but director Rob Marshall did feel it necessary to bring the production to Japan to open up the movie and feel like they were in some very real places rather than on the specially built sets as you can’t replicate the age and beauty of some shrines and temples.

 

Fushimi-Inari Taisha is undoubtedly the most memorable location. It appears after 40 minutes and again on 136 minutes in a flashback scene at the films climax. Accompanied by John Williams’ musical score, it is one of the most Continue reading

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Kansai Trip 2011 Pt I: Fushimi-Inari Taisha

I’d never heard of this shrine until a few months ago and so this became my first port of call on my fourth trip to Kyoto. After a long sleepless night on the bus from Tokyo to Osaka, followed by a local train to Kyoto and then the subway to Inari, I was at this place before 8am when it was fairly quiet.

Reasons I really liked this place:

1. It’s full of thousands of beautiful red torii gates.

2. Foxes are considered the messengers of Inari, and there are dozens of them (in stone form) around the place.

3. It’s in the mountains and thus slightly away from the more crowded parts of Kyoto.

4. It features a nice 4km hiking course up the mountain.

5. The torii gates appear in the 2005 film ‘Memoirs Of A Geisha’. (Full details here).

                               

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A New Addition To The Family #3 – George

Welcome to the family! I’m an uncle again as George Smedley was born at 5.45am on April the 30th. Congratulations to Stuart and my sister Lorna on their first child.

   

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Review: Films Set In Japan – 3 Ninja’s Kick Back (1994)

I originally thought this was one of those made-for-TV kids movies; the kind of which used to be shown on BBC1 on Friday afternoons when I was a child. However, it seems I was wrong as its actually the second of four films in the franchise. As the title implies the film centres around three ‘ninja’ kids who follow their grandfather to Japan when they hear that he is in trouble and they use their skills to help defend him from his ancient enemy who want to exact revenge for a past incident where the grandfather possesses a dagger from a championship game which they feel is rightfully theirs or something like that.

Quite rare for an international production that it wasn’t filmed in Tokyo (or Osaka) although it did try to make out it was at the start of the Japan journey but in reality Nagoya filled in for the capital. Kanazawa, Koga and Hikone were other Japanese locations with the latter providing the most beautiful and spectacular backdrop for some of the films scenes.

One of the ninja kids is defeated by someone wearing a white robe who is revealed to be a girl called Miyo. This token girl appears to speak almost perfect English but in true stereotypical fashion she has trouble pronouncing certain words (“swing my bat/butt”) all in the name of cheap humour. She also provides some kick-ass love interest which is just what a film geared towards children needs!

Before all that the three ninja’s make quite an entrance at the airport as they catch a robber Crocodile Dundee style albeit with a baseball rather than a tin-can or boomerang. Inevitably there are other hilarious (?) gags involving trousers being pulled down, bowing and headbutting each other, fighting with chopsticks (whilst wearing yukata of course), baseball catch practice with eggs, bags being mixed up in true film fashion and the paper thin walls being broken.

The movie is of course aimed at children and it does a good job where thats concerned. I’m two decades older than the target audience and I still enjoyed most of the film which engages in childish slapstick humour and fart jokes (which is of course all beneath my humour level!) played out with some Home Alone-style villains. 

Tokyo Fox Rating 5/10

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Get Your Kits Out For The Lads!

The above photo of Leicester’s Japan player Yuki Abe in the new shirt appeared on the official club site today. According to them the new design takes a “classic, retro style with a modern twist” which sounds like your typical marketing bullsh*t which is used these days. Though pretty similar it does seem to be an improvement on the last few shirts with the white bits thankfully gone and the badge reverting to where I feel it should be rather than in the middle. A collar is also re-introduced for the first time in almost a decade and as much as I like collars this is often a downfall in terms of it being too big (such as in 2000-2002) or the neckline is so loose that one needs to wear a t-shirt underneath to avoid catching a cold.

When I was younger the launch of the new kit was so exciting and for the 20 years after 1984 I always got either the home or away shirt which was more to do with it being an easy present for my parents to get me for my birthday just before the new season kicks off. The one year cycle of shirts (and getting older) put me off getting the shirts and I don’t plan to get this one. At the end of the day a shirt becomes legendary if the team does well or wins something whilst wearing it so lets hope that Sven can get the team promoted to the Premier League in this next season. I am personally interested to see if anyone in Asia will be seen wearing it given that they are on sale in Bangkok Airport (due to our Thai connections) and that we have a Japanese player among our ranks. If that does happen I will be asking to have my photo taken with that person as Leicester shirts just aren’t seen outside of Leicestershire!

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When The Lights Go Down

Obviously the March 11th earthquake had very few benefits but in the aftermath of the event there are a few lessons to be learned. Several of the nuclear power plants which provide Tokyo’s electricity were knocked out and the city has been trying to conserve energy ever since.

The neon lights of Shibuya, Shinjuku and Ginza are iconic and a typical Tokyo image for many people whether they have been here or not. On top of that the city is full of vending machines, escalators, flashing advertisments on screens and so on. Lighting in shops, stations and on trains was always very bright and air-con/heating is blasted out to the max in the Summer/Winter. However, that has changed quite a bit in order to avoid more blackouts. Lighting has been reduced in shops and subway stations, trains have been dimmed down and the advertisment billboards have been switched off which is no doubt costing the city millions in lost revenue from the big companies.

You can’t really blame Japanese people for such excessive use of electricity as thats just the way its always been for them and if you grow up in such convenient and comfortable conditions you don’t know differently. Its these things which often fascinate and amaze visitors to Tokyo who see a country that has seemingly thought of everything to make life that little bit more comfortable. The changes may be drastic for Tokyoites but compared to other world cities it still seems brighter. The playing field certainly seems more level now which shows the amount of lighting was very high before.

Now I dont wanna sound like a gaijin telling Tokyo what it should do but most of the population maybe do need to come to a new understanding about lighting and energy conservation. For example, those ever-efficient Germans conserve electricity by rarely using lighting during daytime office hours. I’m no tree-hugging environmentalist but I am aware of conserving energy which goes back to my cub-scout days when I earned my Conservation badge. Prior to getting it I just thought conservation was only about nature and I had no idea that it was also related to electricity. No doubt my Dad will be thinking now that I learned very little given the number of times I left my light on in my bedroom when I wasn’t in there!

With the hot and humid Summer conditions soon approaching it will be interesting to see how this affects a city which excessively uses air-conditioners. Ex-Prime Minister Junichi Koizumi introduced ‘cool-biz’ a few years back (a policy to get the Japanese salarymen to take off their suit jacket and ties and dress down during the Summer) and JR reduced its temperatures by one degree but incredibly some people complained about this and it reverted back to its original level the following year. Whilst people in Tokyo are getting used to reduced lighting on subways, in restaurants, and on the streets it will be a much bigger step to take this Summer.

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