Hiroshima-ken 2015 Pt I: Live Baseball At The Mazda Stadium

For this years Golden Week holiday I’ve based myself in Hiroshima at my in-laws house and will be travelling around Hiroshima prefecture a bit. As I was in Hiroshima a day before my wife joined us I thought it would be nice to do something with my in-law’s so I suggested going to see some live sporting action.

My father-in-law is a passionate fan of the Carp (as indeed are most locals in Hiroshima) albeit an armchair fan so going to see the baseball gave him the opportunity to go to the Mazda Stadium for the first time which has been their home since 2009. Prior to that they played near the A-Bomb Dome at the now demolished Hiroshima Municipal Stadium which I actually saw on my first trip to Hiroshima in December 2005.

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Despite being exposed to the game a fair bit through movies like ‘Mr Baseball‘ (1992) and ‘The Bad News Bears Go To Japan‘ (1978) as well as other offerings like ‘A League Of Their Own‘ (1992), ‘Hardball‘ (2001) and ‘Moneyball‘ (2011) I still had very little idea of the rules going into this clash between Hiroshima Carp and Yokohama Baystars. Thankfully, my mother-in-law was patient with me and my many questions as to what was actually happening and why!

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Our seats were very good and it was a nice Summer’s night (in Spring!) with a great view and a beautiful backdrop with the Shinkansen regularly running by in the near distance of the stadium. On top of that there was the James Bond theme which was used fairly frequently as music throughout the night.

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This was my first time to watch a baseball game since the Summer of 2006 when I went to see Chiba Lotte Marines at the Makuhari Stadium. On that occasion I was just accompanying a friend and my only concern was the beer! Albeit in different circumstances this occasion was also about drink and it proved to be a landmark day for me as I had my first alcohol for 113 days!

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It seems that baseball is actually quite a simple game; pitchers throw the ball, batters hit it and then………..the Carp lose!! By all accounts the Carp have struggled in recent times not that the outcome mattered too much to me as I didn’t really understand the scoring system anyway! Maybe it was just this game but I think baseball movies have deceived me as they tend to include countess numbers of home-runs whereas in reality there was only one in this match courtesy of the Baystars!

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It was nice to watch some sport in a more relaxed manner though compared to the nerve-wracking high tension Leicester City games in recent weeks! The atmosphere was good and it sounds like the Carp fans are some of the most passionate in Japanese baseball. While cheering, they alternate between standing and sitting in quick succession which has to be seen to be believed.

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For the rest of the time in Hiroshima in the holiday season I was never too far from seeing some Carp merchandise in a wide variety of shops and stores in the area.

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It seems that this team, which was founded in 1950, mean a great deal to the people in the area and I have even decided to switch allegiance from Chiba Lotte Marines to them which is a ridiculous idea and not something I ever like to see anyone do but why not?! I felt more of a connection and interest to this team (I can even name a few of their players unlike with the Marines!) and have continued to follow them a little bit as their losing streak continued…..up until yesterday when they had an amazing shock win against the Yomiuri Giants.

Posted in Japan Travel, Sport | Tagged , , , , , , , | 10 Comments

Star Wars ‘Visions’ Exhibition In Roppongi

The much anticipated Star Wars movie hits the big screen at the end of the year and despite my earlier reservations a couple of years ago I am now not so surprisingly on board with the story continuing. The second teaser trailer was premiered at the recent Celebration event in Anaheim as did the trailer for season two of ‘Rebels‘ which really whetted my appetite for this Visions exhibition in Roppongi. Of course I rarely need anything to get me excited about this franchise!!

Once I’d finally located the place I exchanged my pre-paid ticket (bought at a discount store for ¥1580 instead of ¥1800) for the entrance to this exhibition which is on the 52nd floor of the Mori Arts Center. First impressions were not even  of stuff relating to the sci-fi saga but of the amazing views of the concrete jungle that is Tokyo.

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The introduction area offers a few treats with the main feature being Darth Vader’s meditation chamber which you can have your official photo taken in front of although the same photographer will also take pretty much the same picture on your camera phone. I was happy enough with that rather than shelling out ¥1300  for the special souvenir photo in a special display card design.

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This exhibition comes in six sections; the original visions, vision of force, vision of battle, vision of saga, vision of galaxy and vision of droid. Sadly no photography is allowed in these areas which feature many props including lightsabers, blasters, helmets (including the Vader reveal parts from ‘Return Of The Jedi‘), busts, costumes and original art created by artists hand-picked by George Lucas himself.

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Film clips are played on monitors throughout to provide the symmetry between the planets, battles, miniature spaceships or whatever and how it was seen in each movie. It’s perhaps the saga segment that is the biggest and most fascinating with the centre of the room filled with a collection of costumes and props used on set for the likes of Luke, Leia, Han Solo, Boba Fett, Darth Vader, Yoda, Obi-Wan Kenobi and a Stormtrooper.

As someone who has travelled to the likes of Tunisia, Italy, Spain, Guatemala and erm, England in the name of tracking down the locations used throughout the saga I was very interested to see stuff from the many planets used. I was quite fascinated by a map showing all the planets and their location in relation to each other. There are hundreds of them and proof that every part of the galaxy far, far away is considered very thoughtfully. This galaxy section also possesses a statue of Jabba the Hutt and screen-used ewok, jawa and tusken raider costumes.

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C-3PO and R2-D2 appeared in all six Star Wars films and the final section is devoted to these symbolic characters with the main attraction being the glass cabinet display of the full-sized droids.

Needless to say there was a Star Wars Exhibition Special shop to round things off with all manner of goods that the merchandise-loving Japanese were snapping up in droves. Naturally, I also bought a few additions albeit nothing more exciting than some stationery.

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You can even go up to the Sky View Deck (¥500) to have your photo taken with Darth Vader amidst the Tokyo city view. That costs a further ¥2000 but having had my fair share of Vader pictures over the years I actually decided to not plough any more money into the Star Wars coffers.

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That wasn’t the end though as on the way down to ground level I came across the life-size lego replicas of Darth Vader and Boba Fett (near the Lego shop) followed by the Stormtrooper helmet art. This was similar to the life-size Darth Vader creations seen at the Celebration Japan event in 2008 but on a smaller scale this time.

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The nearest station is Roppongi (exit 3) and adult tickets cost ¥1800. It is open from 10am – 10pm and ends on June 28th. 

Posted in Japan Life, Star Wars | Tagged , , , , , , , | 8 Comments

My Sister’s Family Arrive In Japan

In recent months Tokyo has seen a huge surge in visitors from overseas and among them were my eldest sister and family. For siblings living in different country’s we haven’t done too badly with three meetings in three different countries in the last seven months! First there was my trip to Batam in Indonesia to see them last October and that was followed soon after back home in England for Christmas.

Having been on a whirlwind tour of Osaka, Nara, Kyoto and Hiroshima (including some great hospitality from my in-laws) the five of them arrived at Shinagawa station via Shinkansen. It was then onto a packed train to ride a few stops on up to Harajuku station where they had booked an apartment (via airbnb) on the backstreet running parallel to the overly crowded Takeshita Dori shopping street.

Having thrown the bags in we went more or less straight out for a quick look around Harajuku followed by a visit to Takadanobaba to eat out at Hamazushi; a kaiten-zushi place selling all manner of bastardised sushi and touch screen ordering which everyone, particularly the kids, really enjoyed. It was in there that they finally got to meet my wife too which was all the more remarkable given that they had stayed with her parents for a couple of nights before coming to Tokyo.

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We met up again the following night too. After work I stopped off in Shibuya and took them for a wander down Center Gai where we looked around, had some dinner and then headed on to Harajuku by foot and my wife got to see their living quarters.

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Sunday brought about the only full day we’d get to hang out together. We started with a visit to the Shinjuku metropolitan government building in the skyscraper district which allows you to ascend to its 45th floor observation deck for views of the concrete jungle as far as the eye can see.

Akihabara electric town was up next beginning with a visit to a maid cafe. One of the very first entries on Tokyo Fox in February 2006 was about these themed cafe’s which were fairly new back then. Due to other visitors over the years I’ve been an occasional visitor to these places (that’s my excuse anyway!) but the clientele has changed quite a bit over that time. That can actually be said about the whole of Akihabara itself which during my time has gone from a town full of independent electric stores to a more family-orientated place with the addition of restaurant chains, convenience stores, other ubiquitous shops and souvenir shops seemingly geared up to the vast number of Chinese tourists in the area.

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For my nephew Eifion, the main thing he wanted to see in Tokyo was the Star Wars shop in Koenji which he didn’t stop going on about from the moment I saw him at Shinagawa (and probably before that too) that first day they arrived. We finally put him out of his misery early afternoon and went there which I was more than happy to do.

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We then took the short journey from there to the Tokyo Fox Global Operations Centre in Shinjuku-ku to chill out for a bit, see the place and let my nieces play on my wife’s piano. Eifion was also keen to visit our place to see and play with some of my Star Wars toys and figures and he finally got to play with a proper lightsaber although he kind of did use it back in September 2008 when everyone was back home for my sister Lorna’s wedding.

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Whilst I was at work on the Monday they were at Tokyo Disneyland for yet another rain-soaked day (they suffered thundery showers on their day in Kyoto a week earlier) but once I finished at 9pm I popped in to see them on the way home on their final night and that was it. Short and sweet but so nice to have some visitors!

Posted in Family, Quirky Japan, Star Wars | Tagged , , , , , , , | 6 Comments

TF Flashback: “The Magic Spray” & “Another Safety Shot” Fanzines (1992-93)

Back in the late 1980’s and early 90’s, fanzines were fairly prolific and, along with nationwide staple ‘When Saturday Comes‘, many clubs had a variety of these publications being sold outside grounds offering an alternative and independent view of the goings-on at each club. Keen to partake, my friend Ian Roper (god, rest his soul) and I thought we’d get in on the act and started up a couple of amateur fanzines based on both the local football and cricket clubs in our hometown of Market Harborough.

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When I discovered these fanzines a few months ago at my parents place I was delighted as I had pretty much forgotten about them. They were very much modelled on ideas copied from long-running Leicester City fanzine ‘The Fox‘ and ‘Match‘ football weekly. We set about compiling these fanzines which were always destined to be a one-issue-only special yet amazingly the cricket one stretched for another year as there were more people to take the p*ss out of and we had features which could be expanded.

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Heavily laced with irony and self-deprecation we produced a couple of rags filled with features like Skills of the Stars, Meet the Supporters, 501 Great Own Goals, The Unforgivables, Get Your Kits Out For The Lads, Inside My (Bus) Bag, Letters Page (all made up of course!), Editorial, Fake Surveys, Match Reports telling very little about what actually happened on the field of play, MAdvertisements (fake adverts), Player of the Year Awards and Merchandise.

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Whilst most people of our age were probably chasing after girls we were sat in my room scribbling away (definitely no computer used back then!) to cobble together some half-baked ideas to fill all the pages (8 for ASS and a whopping 12 for TMS) of this publication in one evening! We loved writing it and putting it all together though and thought it was hilarious. It’s just a shame that very few others did!!

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Writing W’s to look like bum’s and a title which could be abbreviated to ASS showed the level of sophistication of these fanzines. What could be funnier than making fun of each other and some other friends with anecdotes from yesteryear that no-one else would ever (care to) remember?!

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Whilst ‘The Magic Spray‘ ran out of steam after just one issue ‘Another Safety Shot‘ somehow managed to reach a second issue with a heavily ironic ‘Wayne’s World‘ style about it. The cover was pretty much identical albeit with the same hapless hero wearing an Australian cork hat….and in colour too! (*)

For a publication that took less than ten minutes to read from cover to cover the 25 pence cover price may have been a bit steep (even back in those days!) but for me they are priceless, timeless reminders of a more innocent time before the internet, mobile phones, digital cameras and social networking had taken off.

(*) Only the original master copy!
Posted in Leicester City, Sport | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Meet Tokyo’s……English Eikaiwa Teachers!

So far in this very occasional series we’ve met Tokyo’s train passengers and its fast food restaurant customers and now it’s time to get acquainted with the many people who come to Japan to teach. Of course each and every one of them has their own individual reasons for doing so and that can play a part in their teaching style.

Eikaiwa is the Japanese word commonly used to refer to the many privately operated English conversation schools in Japan and they possess all manner of teachers with different backgrounds and styles.

Disclaimer: Exaggeration, sexism, generalisation and heavy stereotyping have indeed been ramped up the max in this feature. Apologies in advance! Please note that this is just for fun and any similarity to any teacher living or dead is completely intended!

 

Lets meet the characters…

TTT King – Loves the sound of their own voice and jumps on any dead-air to fill it with their own anecdotes and opinions which they value as being of far greater importance and interest. TTT (teacher talking time) contributes about 80-90% of the lessons duration.

The Sheep – With every textbook there is usually a set of accompanying teacher notes and this person follows them to the letter of the law with very little in the way of digression.

The Winger – Grabs the text book at the same time the student is called into the classroom and sometimes even has the cheek and audacity to just ask them which page they did last before continuing to plod on from the next page or activity.

The Tech Addict – Gone are the days of marker pens and whiteboards! This person certainly loves to use gadgets in the classroom! Any excuse to use their smartphone or tablet in the name of learning in some way even if in reality there is very little to be gained from the implementation of such technology.

The Repetitive Instruction Master – Unsure that the students have understood the instructions this teacher continues to give explanation after explanation to try and confirm what they want the students to do. What actually takes five minutes could probably have been done in a fraction of the time.

The Disciplinarian – The likes of lateness and homework not being done are treated with high disdain by this overly-strict classroom sergeant who believes that classroom management is built on the foundations of discipline.

The “Cool” Teacher – We’ve all come across this creature at some point. He (for it usually is a man!) doesn’t see the role of the teacher and friend as being exclusive and really is so disillusioned that he thinks he’s down with the kids. He thinks they’re laughing with him but it’s more likely that they are laughing at him. Furthermore, he perches himself on the edge of the desk or even straddles the chair the wrong way.

The Overly Creative Game Designer – An elaborate range of ideas are used in games and activities combined with an overly long list of rules, bonus points, exceptions and so on. The students don’t have too much idea what they’re supposed to do and even the teacher struggles to keep score.

The Entertainer/Joker/Zany One – Sporting a whacky shirt and tie combo (sometimes even a bow-tie!) this “funnyman” (again, it’s usually a male!) keeps his students entertained with all manner of cringeworthy gags, silly voices and facial expressions.

The Minimalist – The book. Check. A table and chairs. Check. What more does this person need? Absolutely nothing! This teacher reads all the listening exercises  themselves, writes on scrap paper and realia is whatever is to hand!

The Coffee/Tea/Water/Red-Bull Drinker – Where caffeine is concerned their mood changes throughout the day. Their dignity is pretty much handed in at the door as they get a little bit too into the class when on a high but when it starts to wear off comes the afternoon slump….

The Book Nazi – Small talk? I don’t think so! Free con? No way! The book is there and boy is it gonna be used. A quick hello is immediately followed by the opening of the book and either a check of the students homework or part one of the next unit is set upon.

The Conversationalist – Textbooks?! What are they?! This person takes the book into the classroom but is determined that it will only be used as a last resort when conversation has well and truly dried up.

The Denier – Whatever the accusation of complaint this teacher is innocent beyond belief and is never, ever wrong. It is most definitely always the students or receptionist fault.

Pairwork Specialist – TEFL training is all about putting students into pairs, getting feedback, changing pairs and doing it all over again. Questions are written on the board which the students discuss between themselves whilst the teacher pretends to monitor. In reality they are just thinking about something else and enjoying their own-time.

The Loudmouth – Other teachers dread having to teach in close proximity to this one as their booming voice seeps through the walls. They can be heard throughout the whole school.

The Terrible Timekeeper – Their opening chat and warmer activity goes on longer than expected and though they’re playing catch-up where the remaining activities are concerned they refuse to deviate from the plan and plough on way past the allotted time.

The Dozer – Some people say you can teach at an eikaiwa school in your sleep and this person certainly puts that to the test! Has been known to have nodded off a few times during lessons and can usually be found sleeping at the desk in between lesson too.

Are you a teacher in Japan? Have I missed out an important type of teacher? Please let me know via e-mail: tokyo_fox@hotmail.co.uk or on twitter @tokyofox

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TF Top 5……Otaku Shops In Tokyo

Since moving in together and getting married, my otaku collection has basically grind to a halt which is actually no bad thing as I was a somewhat inadvertent collector anyway who only built up a collection out of boredom and from seeing figures on sale so cheaply in a recycle shop near my old place. However, married life hasn’t stopped me from doing a bit of window shopping from time to time at some of my favourite shops throughout the city with the occasional cheeky purchase too!

Here, in no particular order, are the Tokyo Fox top 5……Otaku shops in Tokyo!

1. StarCase @ Amanaya Buiding, 3-25-25 2F Kita-Koenji, Suginami-ku.

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No franchise has churned out as many wide and diverse products as Star Wars and this place is the mecca for any fan of the galaxy far, far away. Stocked full of figures and other miscellaneous items like curtains, posters, coins, vintage soap, glasses, lunch boxes, cups, cereal packets, badges, cards, stickers, Pepsi-related products as well as a BMX and a video-game machine. More details here

2. Gojira-ya @ 3-67-1 Koenji Minami, Suginami-ku.

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The name of one of Tokyo’s oldest toy collector shops may imply otherwise but strictly speaking this isn’t actually a Godzilla shop. Of course, the giant radioactive lizard features in part but there’s also other Japanese anime and manga-related goods from the likes of Astro Boy and Ultraman. Like StarCase, it could do with a bit of a clean for neither place has the most aesthetically pleasing glass cabinets.

3. AmeComi Senmonten Comic Collectors @ Koenjiminamai 4-21-7, Suginami-ku.

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Specialising in comic books and collectible cards this place also possesses some pretty awesome vintage collector toys and figures. It’s vast collection of Topps trading cards (called bubble gum cards when I was a child!) relaying the story of each movie in picture form is pretty impressive. A piece of inedible chewing gum is included in the packets from the pre-1990 era such as ‘Back To The Future‘, ‘Gremlins‘, ‘Indiana Jones‘ and ‘Ghostbusters’.

4. Monster Japan @ 1-7-15 Ebisunishi, Shibuya-ku.

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Located just a couple of minutes walk from Ebisu station, this toy shop has been importing goods from the USA since 1992. Naturally, the products change but staples include Star Wars, Power Rangers, Transformers, Batman, Superman, Spiderman, Turtles, Cars, My Little Pony and all other manner of Hasbro figures as well as key rings, t-shirts, posters and a load of Marvel comics. Not cheap but a very awesome place!

5. Blister @ Sotokanda 4-3-10 Chiyoda-ku.

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Quite possibly the first place I found in Tokyo nearly a decade ago. Formerly located in Harajuku, this world characters store is still going strong and has found it’s spiritual home in Akihabara in the last few years. Similar to Monster USA in terms of its content but be aware that it is seemingly closed more than it’s opened!

Bonus: Village Vanguard @ Various locations

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These are no ordinary book shops and are instead packed full of offbeat goods with all kinds of snack foods, novelties, gadgets, mobile-phone cases, kitchen devices, shoulder bags, home-ware, lava lamps and toilet shaped curry plates. The perfect place for not-so-serious gift giving. Pop culture abounds with plenty of goods from Star Wars, The Simpsons, Moomin, Hello Kitty, Teenage Mutant Turtles, Frozen, Spider-man, Batman and so on. Oh and they do also sell some books!

Honorary Mention: Nakano Broadway, Nakano-ku – The second and particularly the third floor in this shopping centre is packed full of otaku shops.

Posted in Books, Quirky Japan, Star Wars | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Review: Films Inspired By Japan – Hachi: A Dog’s Tale (2009)

As Tokyo Fox is slowly running short of films ‘set’ in Japan to review, it’s time to start a new series analysing those movies inspired by Japan that have been set in other countries, most commonly the USA. Having been to the new Hachiko statue at the University Of Tokyo recently, the Akita dog was very much on the brain so I guess this Lasse Hallström-directed re-make is the perfect place to start. 

WARNING: Contains spoilers!

This tale of loyalty and devotion starts off in the present with kids doing presentations in class on the subject of their hero. Amid a few sniggers of laughter, one boy tells his classmates that his hero is Hachiko and from thereon the mysterious story of how the dog ended up on a plane from Japan to Boston (USA) unfolds on screen. Thankfully, the kids presentation is done off screen and the story of Hachi is not narrated.

Based on the 1987 Japanese language movie (which in turn was based on a real story) this movie, starring Richard Gere, took the story to a far bigger audience so these days the influx of tourists to Tokyo already know the backstory behind the statue outside Shibuya station which does appear briefly at the end of this movie.

Richard Gere is of course no stranger to movies about Japan having made a guest appearance in the Akira Kurosawa directed movie ‘Rhapsody In August‘ (1991) and here he plays Professor Parker Wilson, the guy who takes the stray dog home with the intention of returning it to its owner. However, that never happens for one reason or another and before you know it many years have passed and the bond between owner and dog is very tight.

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Hachi‘ is an extremely simple movie but one where you’re captivated from start to finish and to his credit, Hallström just lets it run along at a nice pace. Anyone with half a heart is moved by this story and it shows the bond that can develop between owner and dog which is perhaps most prevalent in one scene where Joan Allen’s character looks out of the window and sees her husband playing with the dog and the love and affection he gives it. Gere comes across as heart warming and credible in his role especially the scenes involving teaching the dog to run and fetch.

Animals, particularly dogs, are very precious (sometimes too cherished!) to people in Japan and nowhere is that more noticeable than with the story of Hachiko. Of course all Japanese people know about this story but for other nationalities it’s important to note that this is not quite the family movie they may expect!

This 93 minute movie is a lovely break from the more typical modern-day fast paced, action packed films and is instead a tender story of friendship, love and loyalty. However, it’s not like that all the way through as in the second half of the narrative it seems like the scriptwriters stumbled around a bit regarding how to deal with the transition following Parker’s sudden heart attack and how Hachi is discarded with so easily and quickly by his family in the wake of that tragedy.

“We want you to stay here with us but if you have to go thats ok too” are the words uttered by Parker’s daughter as she just gives up on Hachi and sets him free to choose his destiny. Would anyone really ever be so heartless?! I guess this had to be done though to give us the story of Hachi continuing to wait for his master at the station each night (did he know to just wait on weekdays only? Every single day?!) for the next nine years.

When watching this 2009 film I never fail to well-up inside and love the film all the more for there’s no false over-the-top sentimentality. I enjoyed the dog-cam more than I thought I would as it allows the viewer to see the view of the world around Hachi. It’s not quite the perfect film but such a touching one and I don’t think it really matters that the support cast were so under-used (as some have suggested) as most viewers are only interested in Richard Gere’s character and his relationship with his beloved Japanese Akita dog.

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Tokyo Fox Rating 8/10

Posted in Japan Life, Review: Films Inspired By Japan | Tagged , , , , , , , | 14 Comments

TF Top 10……Alternative Temples And Shrines In Tokyo

“I’m not really a temple or shrine kind of person” is a phrase I’ve heard a fair few times over the years I’ve been living in Japan. No doubt I’ve occasionally uttered those words myself but over time I’ve racked up a fair few visits to these places of buddhist and shinto worship.

Most tourists have always traditionally gone to the famous ones like Asakusa Senso-ji, Meiji Shrine and the controversial Yasukuni Shrine but with more and more visitors arriving in Japan there is a higher demand to get off the tourist trail a bit more and seek out some different temples and shrines, ones with perhaps a stronger interest or connection that they can relate to such as appearances in movies or music videos or just their novelty and quirkiness.

Here, in no particular order, are the Tokyo Fox top 10……alternative temples and  shrines in Tokyo.

1. Jougan-ji Temple @ Honcho 2-26, Nakano-ku.

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Scarlett Johansson went here in the rain for the briefest of scenes in ‘Lost In Translation‘ (2003) More details here

2. Kappa-derra Temple @ 3-7-2 Matsugaya, Taito-ku.

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If you’ve ever had kappamaki in a sushi restaurant then you may be interested to learn that the sushi roll gets it’s name due to cucumbers being the favourite food of the bipedal, turtle-like aquatic goblins who, according to folklore, have been known to grab children crossing bridges and drown them. This temple was built to appease the many kappa creatures in the area and the altar even has offerings of the long green vegetable. More details here

3. Sumiyoshi Jinja shrine @ 1-1-14 Tsukuda, Chuo-ku.

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This shrine was used in the ridiculously silly low budget sequel ‘The Toxic Avenger Part II‘ (1989) and comes alive once every three years for its festival held on the first weekend of August. An enormous gate covered in copper plate welcomes you to the Shinto deity of fishermen and ocean travellers and is protected by foxes. More details here

4. Asakusabashi Temple @ 1-29-11 Asakusabashi, Taito-ku.

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American indie band The Killers descended on this place for the filming of their 2007 hit ‘Read My Mind‘. More details here

5. Shinryō-ji temple @ 2-7-25 Minami Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku.

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Small unusual shrine with a very beautiful Indian/hindu looking elephant gate which is counted as a Tangible Cultural Property of Shinagawa Ward…not that I have any idea what that means exactly!! More details here

6. Mimeguri Jinja Shrine @ 2-5-17 Mukojima, Sumida-ku.

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How on earth did the one of these lions find its way from Trafalgar Square to this small shrine via Ikebukuro? More details here

7. Wakamiya Hachimangu Shrine @ 2-13−16 Daishi Ekimae, Kawasaki-ku.

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Not technically in Tokyo but as it’s only a 15 minute train ride from Shinagawa it’s close enough to be included and let’s face it, the quirky nature of it merits its inclusion in this list. The best time to visit is undoubtedly the first Sunday each April when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom and the erm, portable phallic shrines are standing upright! More details here

8. Zojoji Temple @ 4-7-35 Shibakoen, Minato-ku.

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Perhaps the most famous one in this list and increasingly more popular due to its appearance during a funeral scene in ‘The Wolverine‘ (2013). Way before Hugh Jackman and co turned up there, the Steven Seagal movie ‘Into The Sun‘ (2005)  also featured this place which is famed for its rows of little statues holding windmills. More details here

9. Zenpukuji Temple @ 1-6-21 Moto Azabu, Minato-ku.

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The John Wayne movie ‘The Barbarian & The Geisha‘ (1958) brought the name of Townsend Harris to my attention and there is a monument within these temple grounds dedicated to the first Consul General to the Empire of Japan in 1856. This place also houses the oldest ginkgo tree in Tokyo (800+ years old) with a girth of 10m and the grave of the man on the 10,000 yen note is also in the adjoining cemetery. More details here 

10. Shibamata Taishakuten @ 7-10-3 Shibamata, Katsushika.

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Sample the more traditional side of Edo period Japan and get into all things Tora-san related in this town where the temple is the showpiece feature. For the uninitiated, Shibamata is the home to the ‘Otoko Wa Tsurai Yo‘ (It’s tough being a man) series which were made between 1969 and 1995. More details here

Bonus: Shomyouji Temple @ 212 Kanazawacho, Kanazawa-ku.

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A bit further afield this one but worthy of mention for it’s part in the video for the classic Manic Street Preachers song ‘Motorcycle Emptiness‘ (1992) More details here

Honourable Mentions: 

Miyamisu Mitake Shrine, 1-12-7 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku. More details here 

Sengakuji Temple, 2-11-1 Takanawa, Minato-ku. More details here

Posted in Hentai, Japan Filming Locations, Japan Life, Movie Locations, Music, Quirky Japan, Tokyo Daytripper: | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 9 Comments

TF Flashback: San Diego (2002)

As much as I loved my time in New York city in 2012, it is still California on the west coast which I have the most affection for as that was where I first entered the country in 2002 before returning nine years later for a road trip through the state as well as Nevada, Texas and New Mexico.

Before entering America back in 2002 at the tail-end of my world backpacking trails I was told by many to go to San Francisco or San Diego rather than stay in  L.A. Money and time restraints meant that the latter was a far more realistic option and so as my trip was coming to an end I took a three night break from the sprawling suburbs of L.A. and headed down close to San Diego where I experienced some great hospitality from a local stranger.

Thanks to the journal that I kept at the time it is now possible to recall the events of that experience.

On May 1st, 2002, I paid $23 for the 127 mile return trip on the Greyhound bus (where I saw a motorcyclist fall or get knocked off his bike though he thankfully seemed ok and got back on) where on arrival I rang Ocean Beach International hostel who had a free taxi pick-up. $16 per night was the cost of my 6-bed dorm where someone had previously left behind a breakfast bar, crisps, fruit and cash! The money was mostly one cent coins but at a time when I was desperate for money, a few nickels, dimes and quarters too totalling up to a few dollars was most welcome!

The following morning I went for a walk on the very long Ocean Beach Pier (below) which proved to be a major turning point in what would have probably been a very average day. I got talking to a bald guy called Dennis having asked him to take my picture and before I knew it I’d agreed to let him drive me to Coronado Island.

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This popular wealthy island of stately Victorian homes was accessed by the two-mile San Diego-Coronado Bay Bridge (such a snappy name!) which was toll free for all those not driving alone which may have explained why he was keen to give me a lift there! The islands best known feature is the eye-catching Hotel del Coronado (above) which is a beautiful fine example of Victorian architecture.

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The other half of the island is the US Naval Air station that we drove by on the way to the ferry terminal which provided some decent views across the water of the city. Expecting to be dropped off back at Ocean Beach, Dennis suggested driving on towards Balboa Park which was fine by me but the fact that he touched my knee a couple of times when saying that I was such good company had me slightly worried and a part of me was still a little suspicious! I needn’t have been though and at the park we took the free park tram around some of the 1,400 acre site viewing the many museums and the San Diego Zoo which are all located in the park.

I was then treated to a ‘Jack In The Box‘ drive-thru burger and and milkshake which again left me wondering what he wanted in return! Dennis’ tour of his beloved home city continued on up to Mount Soledad (below) which had 360 degree views of San Diego county from the mountains to the Pacific Ocean.

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We then continued on to the rich persons playground that is La Jolla (San Diego’s own version of L.A.’s Beverley Hills) where we went to the Cove Seal Colony (above) and saw dozens and dozens of seals surfaced on the beach which was considerably more than at Kaikoura in New Zealand and therefore smellier too!!

Next, we drove by the Pacific, Mission and Ocean beaches before arriving in Old Town San Diego which was basically a restored area of Victorian homes, shops, museums and patio restaurants including Bazaar del Mundo; a Spanish-style plaza (below) featuring craft shops, sun-splashed gardens, spirited mariachi groups (singing, instrument playing entertainers) and Mexican restaurants amid a swirl of colour which even I found quite enchanting.

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In finishing off the remainder of San Diego’s sights, Dennis drove me through the Gaslamp Quarter (trendy downtown area full of nightclubs, chic restaurants and coffee houses) and by Shelter Island near Seaworld before dropping me off near where we met at Ocean Beach.

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Dennis gave me his phone number and offered to take me to the Mexican border town of Tijuana the following day if I rang him. I did call but it was a bit late and he had already gone out so I left a message thanking him so much. I felt very, very lucky to have bumped into such a good bloke who was all too willing to show me the city he lived in.

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On The Trail Of John Rain (雨) Part VIII – Tokyo

The Tokyo trail of Barry Eisler’s fictional assassin continues (* Spoilers are included below, you have been warned!) and next up is the Nakagin Capsule Tower (page 125 & 130) in Ginza. This architectural wonder has featured a few times on Tokyo Fox in recent times as it featured in a BBC documentary and also doubled up as a “Nagasaki” love hotel in ‘The Wolverine‘ (2013).

It was built in 1972, the year when this Rain story takes place, and was claimed to be the tower of the future whereas these days it is a bit of a vacant rust bucket described in the novel as “a monument to an ideal that was promised but never came to be” though its still popular with photographers wanting to capture its interesting architecture. The building (below) is a fine example of Tokyo modern architecture and now you can actually stay there.

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Cafe de l’ambre (below, page 131 & 133) is no stranger to Eisler as he also included it in ‘The Detachment‘ (2012) albeit a very brief reference at the start of the novel which saw John Rain and Ben Treven join forces. In ‘Graveyard Of Memories‘ McGraw leaves an envelope of information taped to the underside of one of the counter seats.

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As for Hibiya Park (above, page 136), Rain sits on a bench there and reads some files about Fukumoto which were left for him by McGraw at the aforementioned Cafe de l’ambre.

The prestigious garden suburb of Denenchofu (page 137) in Ota-ku is where Fukumoto resides and where Raim rides to to find his impressive house in this expensive neighbourhood. The picture below is not Fukumoto’s residence but the station which is the symbol of this Ota-ku neighbourhood.

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The arty Daikanyama (page 140) district of Tokyo is mentioned briefly but again no exact location is mentioned. Not sure what to add picture-wise so this giant sunflower (below) will suffice though no doubt it was not around in the early 1970’s when this story takes place. Just down the road from the sunflower is Mocha Coffee which is the kind of independent coffee shop I can imagine someone like John Rain frequenting when he’s in Tokyo. Rain follows the lady exiting Fukumoto’s house (in her yellow Porsche) to Daikanyama where she enters one of the clothes boutiques which the area is famous for.

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Benzaiten Shrine in Inokashira Park (below, page 150 & 189) pretty much marks the end of the Kanda-gawa River which I cycled the length of back in April 2011. McGraw tells Rain to meet him at this “out of the way” shrine described as “a fusion of Chinese, Indian and Japanese styles.”

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Kabukicho (below) is the slightly less salacious side of Shinjuku and Taro Club (page 151) is where Rain takes Midori to see some jazz musician. That club was a figment of Eisler’s imagination within the neon heart of darkness.

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The New Otani Hotel at 4-1 Kioi-cho in Chiyoda-ku already has its place in popular culture due to its appearance in the 5th James Bond movie ‘You Only Live Twice(1967) where it was used as the Osato Chemicals exterior. In terms of Rain locales, its lobby (page 191 & 213) is where McGraw tells Rain that Miyamoto will be waiting for him. When they meet they enjoy tea in the lounge overlooking the garden above.

In 2013 I wrote all about Zenpuku-ji (page 215) having been there after watching ‘The Barbarian And The Geisha‘ (1958) where an under-par John Wayne played the role of Townsend Harris who became the first Consul General to the Empire of Japan three years after it had opened up in 1853. The temple (below) is at 1-6-21 Moto Azabu and it has a monument in the centre dedicated to Harris. As for Rain, he goes here on his motorbike to collect his thoughts and reflect honestly whilst being the “sole living trespasser in a sanctum of the dead”

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Shiba-koen and Zojoji Temple (below, page 273) stand side-by-side in the foreground of Tokyo Tower and Rain takes a woman here in the wake of some action. I said earlier that spoilers are included here but as this happens towards the end of the book I had better not reveal too many details.

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Jikei Hospital (below, page 290) in Nishi Shimbashi possesses the morgue where a couple of unfortunate casualties are taken as the story unfolds.

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Other ‘Graveyard Of Memories‘ location articles can be seen here and here.

For other John Rain entries please click on the following:

Rain Fall Film      Rain Fall Film Review      Prelude      Part I      Part II      Part III         Part IV     Part V     Part VI     Part VII

Posted in Books, Cycling | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 11 Comments