Vietnam 2013 Pt III: Sapa

When we booked this trip a few months back I really wasn’t too sure about whether to go on up to Sapa or not but following a sincere recommendation from a friend it ultimately  proved to be a very wise decision. Following a long nine hour night train between Hanoi and Lao Cai followed by a very winding one hour bus ride we finally reached our destination which was a small colourful town where tourists and local black mong tribe people (below) mixed freely among each other.

Over the last ten years or so Sapa has become a premier destination in the north-west thanks to the great views (on clear days!) and an amazing array of minority hill tribe people and colourful markets. I didn’t realise quite how much this old French hill station has become part of the northern travelling trail until arriving in the centre where it was lashing it down with rain. Typically as soon as we splashed out on some poncho’s it stopped raining and the sun came out though thankfully (for the sake of getting some use of the poncho!) it did rain in intervals throughout the day.

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The question beforehand was whether or not to do a tour or just roll up and organise it freestyle. Thankfully we chose the former and our tour guide, Quand from sapapathfinder.com was a very nice, friendly, smiling guy whose English pronunciation was clearer than any other local we met during our time in Vietnam. The tour started with a trail through a market where just about every part of an animals body was on sale (above) and then we trekked on into the countryside visiting Cat Cat and Sin Chai villages. Views of rice terraces in the foreground of mountains could be seen and was a very common sight over the two days.

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We could see a completely different way of life and fascinating it was too. There were very young kids selling bracelets everywhere and we entered a local home (below) which really was quite gruesome and so, so basic as they cook inside the hut and then sleep there with almost no daylight coming in which means that they sadly, often have a low life expectancy.

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After a night at the Hoang Ha Hotel we did more trekking the following day and took in a couple more villages amid soaring heat. We walked across the bridge below which had no railings or anything at the side to stop you falling off which wasn’t helped a few nervy times by vehicles passing over it meaning you had to stand very close to the edge to let them pass. Over the other side we had lunch in the Black Mong village before continuing on through a Red Dzao one but not before the hassle involved in the local kids and black mong people (who had followed us from Sapa) trying to sell us some local handicrafts. We had decided shortly before to buy something from a very, very chatty young girl (22 & married with two kids!) who we learned a lot from about Sapa, herself and her tribe. That didn’t stop every other person in the village from trying to sell us something too once they’d seen the sight of money!

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Can’t remember exactly when, but we did sample what I think was sparrow (below) which was fairly tasteless and not exactly easy to pick at due to its bones. For the record the building lit up below is the originally named Sapa Church.

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As someone who has travelled to many places around the world now I have experienced a lot of things so it was a relief that Sapa provided me, for one, with an intriguing and unique experience blending a mix of ethnic diversities with some beautiful green scenery.

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Vietnam 2013 Pt II: Sightseeing In Hanoi

Dining out at the many street vendors might have taken up a fair bit of our time but we also visited a handful of Hanoi’s sightseeing attractions starting off with Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. This was the only time I used a motorbike as opposed to all those years ago in HCMC when I used them all the time. The reason for limited use this time is that Hanoi is a small place which is easy to navigate on foot with a good map. The lines were super-long for this place but they did move fairly swiftly and though no visible reaction could be seen from the locals when we saw Ho Chi Minh’s body lying there it did make the heart of the Vietnamese guy I was with (below) beat fast and was really moving for him.

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The Presidential Palace and the house where Ho Chi Minh lived and worked from 1954 to 1958 are below.

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Due to its strange opening hours I didn’t have time to see the Ho Chi Minh Museum so walked on a few blocks to the Temple of Literature (below) which was a pleasant enough place but for someone living in Japan and surrounded by temples it wasn’t anything too new or interesting for me.

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The next two places were more up my street but all-in-all quite a dark reflection on Vietnam’s history. First up was the Vietnam Military History Museum which displays hundreds of objects, photos and most impressively a vast collection of weaponry including tanks, jet fighters and other such military vehicles as seen below.

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After that was what remains of the Hoa Lo Prison (a.k.a. the “Hanoi Hilton”) which was built by the French in the late 19th century and houses some rather gruesome exhibits and photographs such as the ones seen below.

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The Municipal Water Puppet Theatre was the setting for some early evening entertainment one evening as we saw a 45 minute water puppet performance. This show  was novel and fun and featured about ten acts depicting pastoral scenes and legends. The final scene was particularly interesting as we got to see the people quite literally pulling the strings come out to give the audience an idea of how exactly this ancient art form works. The band playing the accompanying music also added a nice bit of ethnic authenticity to the occasion.

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The old Long Bien Bridge was recommended by a friend as something to see in an interesting-but-certainly-not-essential type way. Located in the north-east of the city it is only for pedestrians, motorcyclists and the the train which crosses it. It’s certainly not for those with a fear of heights as you can see beneath you the whole time as the rusting old bring reverberates around you as the traffic passes over it.

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Hoan Kiem Lake is the focal point of old Hanoi and a nice place to walk around but not quite as interesting as some people make out. The Thap Rua (Turtle Tower) on an islet looks very impressive and Ngoc Son Temple on an island at the other end of the lake is nothing special but helped eat up a bit of time.

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Didn’t know where to put the picture above so I have included it here as this is what Vietnam is all about! Of course the pointy hats are ultra famous but these huge scale-type things which street vendors walk around carrying are a common sight too. This particular one got a good deal from me as I wanted my tourist photo and boy did she want me to cough up some hard cash after that for pineapple but I didn’t fall for that scam. Still, she got a reasonably good price for the fruit and the picture.

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Vietnam 2013 Pt I: Dining Out In Hanoi

Vietnam is a deceptively big country – over one and a half thousand kilometres from north to south, although only around 50km wide at its narrowest point. With these long distances in mind, I could only ever get round the southern part just over six years ago when I combined that area with a trip up the Mekong into Cambodia to see Angkor Wat on what was one of my most memorable holidays ever.

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This time though it was just the north starting off with the capital city Hanoi which is  buzzing with atmosphere, particularly in the Old Quarter where motorcycles zip around the streets day and night in a city where traffic lights are few to non existent. These thousands of motorcycles provide a constant soundtrack of angry insect swarms and beeping horns. The city throngs with foreign visitors but is somehow not touristy as it seems that it doesn’t bend to their whims who instead have to adapt to the Hanoi way. Overall the place is fascinating and a little overwhelming but its never uninteresting and made quite an impression on us. It’s just a little difficult to really portray the place with just words and pictures when it really needs to be seen to be believed.

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Whilst Hanoi does have a fair few interesting sights grouped quite close together they are not the memories that most people leave with as it is the aforementioned street noise and ubiquitous food stalls which provide the highlight for many. Pho (noodle soup) is naturally the most common dish and we didn’t waste too much time in eating that on arrival at ‘Rising Dragon Grand Hotel’ on Hang Ga. After some pho and spring rolls on a noisy street we then sampled the dish you see below of which the name sadly eludes me at this moment.

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One of my favourite places was Banh Ghoi on Ly Quoc Su (below) which was where I ended up in the rain a couple of times. I love these simple kind of street food restaurants and this one in particular had some amazing deep fried pastries filled with the likes of pork, vermicelli and mushrooms. Very tasty and so, so cheap!

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Nearby to that was a place where I followed the above snacks with some bun cha (barbecued pork and rice vermicelli) as seen below.

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Pho 10 (above) was a place I never tried unlike Pho 24 (below) which is located next to the Hoan Kiem Lake and offers a cleaner, sleeker experience to that of the street hawker food.

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Above and all photos below show some of the other dishes and street food available in a city famed for its local cuisine. In fact the Old Quarter seems at times to consist of nothing but scores of vendors taking over the streets with smoking charcoal burners, tiny plastic stools & tables and hordes of locals and tourists alike throwing themselves into the chaotic neighbourhood eateries.

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Music Videos Filmed In Japan #4 Manic Street Preachers – ‘Motorcycle Emptiness’ (1992)

This was the fifth song to be released from the Welsh alternative rock band’s debut album ‘Generation Terrorists‘ and in the Richey Edwards-era was probably their most successful song. Even in the more prosperous post ‘Everything Must Go‘ period it is still considered by many to be one of their best and always goes down well when performed live. However, when I saw them play live at Studio Coast in Shin Kiba last year it didn’t feature in the set as I was only there on the second of two nights where they ran through all their singles. In a best songs ever poll by Q Magazine in 2006 this classic anthem came in at number 88.

Some of the words were taken from the poem ‘Neon Loneliness’ by guitarist and lyricist Nicky Wire’s brother Patrick Jones who is a poet. One can only assume that the line “…under neon loneliness” refers to the famous neon lights of Tokyo city and so it was felt that the video should also be set in and around the Japanese capital.

As one who has never really been so much into music videos I didn’t even know that it was filmed in Japan until a colleague mentioned it last year. The decision to film in Japan was a last minute one so without permits to film in the streets the band and an entirely Japanese crew (with the aid of an interpreter) directed the video guerrilla-style, whereby they had to stay one step ahead of the local police force.

The first location to appear is Shibuya Crossing at the Hachiko exit of JR Shibuya station with lead singer James Dean Bradfield singing in the rain amid a sea of umbrellas on Center Gai (below). The filming done on this busy shopping street makes up the majority of the video which is interwoven, as is usually done in music video’s, with a few other scenes.

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On 0:43 minutes we see a brief shot of Tokyo Tower in the background of the band  (below) which was captured at Shiba-koen park which is next to Zojoji Temple and in the foreground of the landmark tower. The band are seen in the park towards the very end of the video with the 333m high orange (?) and white tower behind them.

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The huge Cosmo Clock 21 is a giant ferris wheel (below) that first appears on 1:36 minutes (and again throughout the five minute video) and this is found at CosmoWorld in Yokohama which is about an hour south-west of Tokyo. It is the world’s largest clock and when it first opened in 1989 it was the world’s tallest ferris wheel. 

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It now stands at 112.5 metres (369 ft) and has 60 passenger cars, each capable of carrying up to eight people. One rotation of the 100-metre (330 ft) diameter wheel takes 15 minutes. As you can see in the screen-grabs filming took place around 7pm and my school manager (and fellow Manics fan) Shinobu and I planned to wait around till the same time but impatience got the better of us.

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The red bridge (below) with a tortoise on it on 4:09 minutes is Shomyoji Temple in Yokohama which I just couldn’t for the life of me locate when I first published this post but no sooner had I done so and Shinobu recognised it by sheer chance when she went there with her husband. My first guess was that it may be within the beautifully landscaped gardens of Sankei-en in Yokohama but instead it is 10 miles away and a ten minute walk from the East Exit of Kanazawa Bunko station.

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The bell in the background of drummer Sean Moore (below) on 2:43 is a few metres away from the bridge which is a bit faded now but it is 21 years on after all! I should point out that I have grown my hair in the 7-8 months since the Cosmo World pictures!

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The wooden steps where James is sat below were also filmed at Shomyoji Temple. Originally the only clue I could find online was that it was filmed at a “Yokohoma Temple in the mountains outside the city” but this was in an article already including some glaringly obvious mistakes!!

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As you exit the bridge you can see the Main Hall and to the right of that is a smaller wooden building and it is this one that featured in the video.

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We’re not quite finished yet with Shomyoji though as there were a few more shots of James taken up in the mountains (not very high ones!) behind the temple (below) which takes about 7-8 minutes to ascend via steps but the view has changed quite a bit in the two decades which have passed. As a huge Manics fan I was very excited to visit this particular area of Yokohama which is pretty much unknown. Details of the temple and how to get there can be seen here.

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The hotel (below) is, according to commenter Bjorn, the Keikyu EX inn Shinagawa. It’s address is 3-13-3 Takanawa in Minato-ku and it costs from about 15,000 yen per night.

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Click here to see the TF Top 10……Music Videos Filmed In Japan

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Moving In 2013

So after 4.5 years in Kami Itabashi I have recently moved onto pastures new and am living in the North Shinjuku area after finding a place for a reasonable amount of rent each month. Whilst the place is non-furnished there are at least a couple of big closets to store most of the rubbish I’ve accumulated over those years spent in the north of Tokyo.

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Slowly but surely things are coming together starting with a slightly reduced Star Wars collection display in none other place than the toilet!! My Japanese teacher very kindly gave me a refrigerator and sofa and though I haven’t had much chance to use the latter yet it sure is nice to have something I’ve not really ever had the luxury of in this country. Along with a couple of other donations and purchases (as well as a free TV given away with the internet provider I signed up to) the place is on its way to being complete.

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It’s quite nice in a way being on the ground floor as that means no-one is below us meaning that tip-toeing around (as has almost been done in past houses) isn’t so necessary. However, street noises are a little more prevalent with most passer-by voices being heard but it didn’t take too long to get used to that.

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The new place also has a separate toilet (now the Star Wars shrine!) and bathroom featuring a shower room and pantry-area which is so much better than the tiny unit-bathroom of my old place. Richard, Mizuki and their baby Tatsu were the first guests to visit the place.

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Review: Films Set In Japan – Tokyo Joe (1949)

If you thoughtThe Barbarian And The Geisha‘ (1958) was old then this film is absolutely ancient and apart from the movies opening glimpse of Mount Fuji this is a very different Japan compared to its modern day incarnation. In black and white, this is a Humphrey Bogart film you don’t often hear about and though it desperately tries to recapture the winning formula of ‘Casablanca‘ (1942) it really is weary in comparison.

The story finds ex-soldier Joe Barrett (Bogart) returning to Ginza san-chome just after WWII to the nightclub which he once owned alongside his old Japanese partner Ito (Teru Shimada) who 007 fans may remember for his later role as Mr. Osato in ‘You Only Live Twice‘ (1967). Ito informs Joe that Trina (Florence Marly), the wife he left behind, who he believed to be dead, is alive and living nearby. On top of that, she has remarried an American diplomat and has a seven year old daughter of whom Joe is the father. Furthermore, Trina did propaganda broadcasts during the war for the Imperial Japanese government making her a traitor to America leaving her libel to prosecution from the US Military Government in Japan who were in charge of Japan at that time. This all makes Joe want to stay for longer than the 60 days he’s given by the authorities.

What happens next amid the ensuing complications is a tale of blackmail, threats, smuggling, kidnapping with the inevitable rescue attempt in a gloomy albeit brief exciting finale littered with a few randomly placed Japanese words. It sounds better than it actually was and ultimately I was fairly disappointed with this film.

Of course I am watching these ‘films set in Japan’ for the locations and that is about the only thing which kept me interested in this slow moving movie as its far more interesting than the plot. Japan is being rebuilt following WWII and the place is far off the Japan we see featured in flicks today. If you think the economy is bad at present then thats nothing compared to one particular point where Joe flicks his cigarette butt onto the street and several people go after it. I’m not sure if Bogart actually even came to Japan as whenever we see his face it appears that rear projection is being used but when you see a guy in a trench coat wearing a hat (and thereby don’t see his face) its obviously someone else who did visit Japan where the production crew must have come to get the location shots needed. It is pretty noticeable and does make the film seem a bit cheap but hey this was shot over 60 years ago! There is even one moment where Joe is practicing his Judo but its so clearly a stunt double as it looks nothing like him!

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Tokyo Fox Rating 3/10

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Using Songs In Adult English Lessons

Following my recent post on using ‘Everybody’s Free (To Wear Sunscreen)‘ in English lessons I have had a few enquiries about using songs as an additional resource. Not wanting to actually come up with anything new on this topic I have decided to just reproduce an article I wrote for my company’s in-house magazine a few years ago albeit in a slightly revised format.

Most teachers know the merits of using songs in kids lessons but there is potential to go beyond the ‘The Wheels On The Bus‘ and ‘Heads and shoulders‘. Music should not just be thought of as being exclusively used in kids lessons since there is also a time and a place for it in Adult lessons too. Standard books like ‘New New Headway’ and ‘Snaphsot’ use songs but apart from these examples there’s not too much out there.

Using songs in the classroom provides listening practice which is (hopefully) stimulating and often more authentic than your average textbook listening exercise. Songs also provide a lot of repetition and can contain cultural references which our motivated students will be intrigued by. This fun way of learning makes a refreshing change for students and can be employed in the following ways:

Gap Fill – the most favoured exercise involving listening for the relevant lexical or grammatical words or whatever the target language point is. These missing words could of course be printed at the bottom of the lyrics sheet or on the board for those weaker students.

Ordering – cut up the lyrics into strips. Students can predict the order and then check while listening to the song.

Rhyming Words – erase the rhyming word and students predict what it could be.

Changing Words – take selected words or lyrics and change them to similar sounding or looking words.

Sentence Completion – students predict and/or listen to the end of a lyrical sentence.

Jigsaw Listening – Students have different lyric strips to listen out for and place in order on the table.

Listening for Key Words – pressing a buzzer or just simply keeping a tally of how many times they hear certain words or examples of the target language, such as present continuous, and choosing the correct word from two (or even three) similar sounding words.

Choosing a song can be difficult but some things to think about are: Is it a realistic task for the intended level to accomplish? Is it fast or slow? Is there any repetition? Does it contain idioms and cultural references that are beyond students’ level and would take too much explaining beforehand? Failing that, songs by ‘The Beatles‘ are usually a safe bet as they’re commonly known and they, along with thousands of other songs, can be used to provide a topic introduction or discussion.

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Tokyo Filming Locations #13 – The Toxic Avenger Part II (1989)

This ridiculously silly low budget sequel finds a fairly lame reason to come to Japan and so from 34 minutes onwards we begin to see Tokyo locations including Tokyo Tower (36 mins) Kabuki-za (37 mins), Shinjuku Yamanote line platform (38 mins), Asakusa Senso-ji (38 mins), the area around Harajuku station (41mins), Tokyo station (51:00) and Tsukiji fish market (58 mins). The majority of those places are fairly famous and in a sense not that interesting to detail as they have all been used in films before. However, Tsukuda is a different matter entirely! I visited this place on a very windy day back in February of this year to scout out the filming locations used in this sleepy area in the south of Tokyo.

Tsukuda first appears on the hour mark as the Toxic Avenger is re-united with his long lost Japanese father on the striking red Tsukuda Bashi Bridge but its discovered that he has been smuggling cocaine. They follow him around the block to his headquarters at “Fisherman’s Shrine” on 62 mins which in reality is Sumiyoshi Jinja shrine (below). The address is 1-1-14 Tsukuda and it is only a minutes walk from the aforementioned bridge.

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The Toxic Avenger and his lady friend Masumi confront him about his crimes and in true comical fashion he inadvertently hits her and as she’s left slightly dazed and confused she comes to rest on the stone statue thing seen below.

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A very silly fight ensues between the Toxic Avenger with his fathers team of henchmen  and it continues on back to Tsukuda bashi bridge (below) on 65 mins.

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As more and more random people join in the this silly bout of fisticuff action different parts of the town are seen. There is a fight on 67 mins with a man dressed as a Japanese schoolgirl and some kabuki men from earlier in the film who suddenly turn up in this sleepy part of Tokyo for no apparent reason but given that Troma Entertainment are famed for serving up campy movies this is not so unusual! The area looks quite different these days but the tiny Mori-inari jinja shrine (below) at 1-4-4 Tsukuda is still there but blink and you might miss it! I had actually given up on finding it after navigating the area for a while on bicycle looking for it but as I was about to make my way home I came across it by chance.

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Tenyasu tsukudani (small seafood, meat or seaweed simmered in soy sauce and mirin) boutique (below) appears on screen on 70 minutes where Japanese food critic Go Nagai makes a cameo appearance as he’s giving a TV interview where he says the food has magical powers and can attract beautiful women and before you know it the Toxic Avenger’s latest opponent is hit over the head by a fish moments after her clothes all fell off and she stumbles into the interviewers lap and he thinks god has answered his call to meet a pretty lady. You probably think I’m making this all up but believe me it really all does happen. Tenyasu’s much-photographed wooden building is the oldest of the three tsukudani shops in the area and it had a steady stream of customers visiting it. It’s been open since 170 years ago and you can buy the stuff by measure but as it was expensive and I didn’t think it could be used so easily I declined the invitation.

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You can see my ‘Tokyo Daytripper: Tsukuda’ post here & my review of ‘The Toxic Avenger Part II‘ (1989) here.

Posted in Japan Filming Locations, Movie Locations | Tagged , , , , , , | 16 Comments

Dining Out: Ayung Teras (Indonesia)

Indonesia was on the brain the other week when I was in an area of Shibuya where there are a couple of Indonesian restaurants and I thought I’d get in on the action. My first choice (based purely on the name!) was ‘Bali Monkey Cafe’ but as that was closed I popped round the corner to ‘Ayung Teras’ (20-12 Sakuragaoka-cho, Shibuya-ku) and I was not disappointed.

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The restaurant has three lunch sets available and I plumped for the ‘A Lunch’ one which is Nasi Goreng. This is considered to be the national dish of Indonesia though there are a fair few other contenders. It basically means fried rice in Indonesian and featured very high on the list of CNN’s most delicious world foods a couple of years ago. A fairly simple dish in appearance you may think on seeing the pictures but the sweet soy sauce added to it makes it a delight to eat. I finished it in no time!

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So why was Indonesia on the brain I hear you ask! Well, whilst I was with the majority of my family in Melbourne a year ago my sister and brother-in-law announced that they were strongly considering moving from Australia to Indonesia to set up or expand some sort of business or other. Well, a year on and that idea is actually being realised very soon when they move to an island in the north close to Singapore.

That last bit of news was almost music to my ears as I have never been to Indonesia or Singapore so am already thinking strongly about maybe doing a trip around that part of the world over the Christmas holidays at the end of this year. Of course this is just an idea at the moment but I do like the idea of flying into Bali and then working my way up through Jakata and the rest of Indonesia finishing on Batam before going on to Singapore and then continuing on to Malaysia’s capital Kuala Lumpur which is a part of that country I’ve never visited (apart from the Airport!). The reverse journey is also a possibility but early days yet and maybe I should actually let my sister know about these initial thoughts!!

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Everybody’s Free (To Wear Sunscreen) In English Lessons!

Having heard the song ‘Everybody’s Free (To Wear Sunscreen)‘ mentioned recently on Scott Mills’ Radio One show for the final episode of the ‘24 Years at the Tap End‘ feature I remembered that I had actually burned this song onto a CD a few years ago in anticipation of one day using the song in a lesson. I never thought for one moment that it would take me so long to get my act together and come up with a way of incorporating it into a lesson but time flies and all that!

The song is by Baz Luhrmann (an Australian director famous for his work on ‘Romeo + Juliet‘ and ‘Moulin Rouge‘) although the voice on it is not his. It’s spoken by Australian voice actor Lee Perry and was written in 1997 by Mary Schmich albeit originally in a Chicago Tribune newspaper column titled “Advice, like youth, probably just wasted on the young.”

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With no singing it is therefore much easier (supposedly) for students to make out what is being said which is why I thought it might be an interesting additional resource to bring into the classroom. The theme of the song is advice which is an ever-recurring theme in lessons across all levels but in my opinion it is rarely interesting to teach as, whatever the problem, Japanese students nearly always seem to advise going to hospital or taking medicine. On the other hand this spoken word song, which reached number one in the UK charts in 1999, consists of some much greater thought-provoking advice.

Beforehand I thought it would be quite adaptable to a wide range of levels due to its fairly slow speed and simple language. However, with the benefit of hindsight I now feel there are probably a few words too many which need to be pre-taught such as grasp, recall, dispense, apt, blind side, tip, basis, meandering, algebra equation and maybe even sunscreen itself! I trialled this lesson with a fair few classes (pre-intermediate to advanced levels) over the last couple of weeks, and as easy as the gap-fill part was for all of them, the ability to really get a good understanding other than the overall context was mixed.

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In some ways though thats not important as long as they could pick out a few decent lines of advice which indeed was one of the follow-up questions after the listening task. The pre-listening included searching for good and bad examples of advice the students had been given throughout their life whether it be from family, friends or colleagues. This included a mix of standard, interesting and just down-right bizarre examples. Pre-teaching some of the unknown vocabulary via a match-up exercise on the board (or eliciting it from the higher levels) was also needed but to be honest I wasn’t that happy with these tasks but really couldn’t think up any better ideas on this occasion.

Overall though it was good to use my own choice of song in a lesson for the first time since a few years ago when I went through a phase of regularly using the medium of song to jazz up some of my lessons. I wonder what will be next!

Posted in English Teaching, Music | Tagged , , , , , , | 1 Comment