Central America 2012/13 Pt VI: Granada (Nicaragua)

It’s fair to say that I really did under-estimate the size of Central America and the ability to go between places as and when I wanted. Yet another day was spent on the bus on January 2nd getting to Managua in Nicaragua. On arrival I thought I’d spend a night in the capital city before heading south to its colonial lakeside wonder; Granada, in the morning. I turned the corner from the bus station and checked into Guest House Santos which Lonely Planet describes as “a legendary backpacker spot with a laid-back vibe and plenty of character”. That sadly wasn’t too much in evidence as I was about the only person staying there!

In Granada the following morning I checked into the Bearded Monkey backpackers and spent a couple of hours eating lunch (below) and walking around yet another colonial town in scorching sunshine.

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Mid-afternoon I decided to up the ante a bit and booked onto a zip-lining expedition in the foreground of Volcan Mombacho. Overall there were 11 cables for us to zip along over the jungle canopy in a variety of styles such as Superman, upside down and of course the more conventional manner. It was good to do something a bit more active but didn’t set the pulse rating too much as this was the kind of thing I did a lot as a child.

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My second day in Granada was far more eventful as fellow Brit Paul (who had started to annoy me from the off but when you’re travelling you can get desperate for company that you have to put up with such people!) and I rented some bicycles to go to Laguna de Apoyo with this crater lake considered to be one of the country’s natural wonders.

The rental place told us the vague directions which led to us cycling for an hour down a dual-carriageway which was not what we really wanted as a bus could have transported us down that road for just a couple of extra dollars. We ended up going too far and missing the turn and a short while after turning back Paul got a puncture. Not long after that a chicken bus came by and he got on that and they threw the bicycle on top whilst I followed the bus for as long as I could keep up with it which wasn’t too long.

At the turn off the road was a bit more up and down culminating in the final 4km which was thankfully all downhill but ultimately not as fun as it sounds as it was bumpy as hell and there was a lot of pressure on my arms as I held on to the handlebars and brakes for dear life.

Despite all my many bicycle rides in recent times I was exhausted on my arrival at the lagoon and fairly disappointed to be fair. I had a quick swim and then went to find a place called the Monkey Hut which, for $6, allowed you use of their facilities including kayaks and inner tubes. As I wanted too impressed and wanted to get back to Granada for my afternoon trip I declined and decided to wait for a chicken bus to take me back up to the highway. I hadn’t seen Paul since he boarded one a couple of hours earlier but by chance when I got on board he was already on it and despite my earlier proclamation about him I was actually glad to see him.

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Back in the saddle riding along the highway all was going fine until a couple of kilometres from the turn-off for Granada (at the Puma garage seen below.

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I never realised they did anything other than manufacture sports goods) I too got a puncture and had to drag the heavy bike all the way back to the agency via the derelict Hospital Viejo (above) which took over an hour and all-in-all was a bit of a nightmare BUT it did give me something to write about here and in a way thats what travel is all about for me.

Masaya volcano night tour was on the agenda from 3pm which started with an hours shopping of tourist tat in Masaya followed by some crater views and a bit of climbing.

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The undoubted highlight though was the bat cave in pitch black darkness which saw three of us go into a cave at one time where we were then told to turn off our torches.

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We could hear the bats flying around us which was pretty scary and made almost worse when I pushed the clicker on my camera and saw the bright picture flash up on screen showing me how many bats there were (loads!) and how blo*dy close they were to me. I felt like Bruce Wayne in ‘Batman Begins‘ (2005) with the swarm of bats flying around me which was quite unnerving.

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Central America 2012/13 Pt V: Copan Ruinas & Tegucigalpa (Honduras)

After an unwanted night back in Guatemala City I made sure I was at the Hedman Alas bus station (a few blocks away from my hotel) way before its scheduled 5am departure to ensure I got a ticket. No need to worry really as there were only about four of us on the bus to Copan Ruinas in Honduras. Thankfully, a mother was able to help sort out my days plan enabling me to actually stop in the area for a few hours before taking the bus at 2.30pm to capital city Tegucigalpa via San Pedro Sula which wasn’t too far away from where I started the day the previous morning! Oh well, you live and learn.

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The ruins were about a kilometres walk away and pleasant enough with the detail of the carved stones most impressive but all-in-all the place wasn’t a patch on Tikal. A couple of hours wandering around the place was plentiful enough and even gave me the time to have a look around the town itself where I braved the street food seen below.

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It was about 10.30pm on New Years Eve when I arrived in the dangerous and crime-ridden capital city of Tegucigalpa. Despite the bus area of Comayaguela not being one to linger I still thought I could make it to a hotel a few blocks away without problems and I tried but I really couldn’t get my bearings so returned to the station and ended up sharing a taxi with the last remaining person in the place. I uttered the words Hotel Union to the driver but with my inability to truly communicate in Spanish I really had no idea what was in store for me but after a ten minute drive I was amazed when we actually pulled up outside the place.

Sadly, no one answered the door so we tried next door at Hotel Heber where thankfully there was an answer and I managed to get a cell-like room (below) for $13 a night. There was no wi-fi but I did have satellite TV and saw New York enter 2013 on CNN at 11pm local time. An hour later I was watching (and listening to) fireworks and fire crackers going off all around the place from the roof of the hotel which sounds far more glamorous and interesting than it really was.

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My New Years Day was mostly spent watching CNN as well as the ‘Friends‘ non-stop marathon on one of the channels. I braved the streets to find the bus station where I did manage to get confirmation that there were no buses until the next day. Good to do a dry run anyway in the murder capital of the world! See the chart above to see how bad the situation is. Thanks to Graeme for showing me that a couple of days before!

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I went to an internet cafe over the road from my hotel where I was warned about the dangers of the area but I was getting bored being holed up in my room so returned to the same place to get the guy to book me a taxi to take me into the city as I thought I might as well see the actual city centre.

The place was full of policemen and army soldiers which was in a way reassuring for me. I saw some churches, the cathedral and other such prominent buildings in what was a small downtown area. However, most of my time was spent outside Burger King and in Wendy’s using their free wi-fi to catch up with all the New Years updates on Facebook and Twitter as well as downloading some podcasts for later listening. I had asked the taxi driver to pick me up again at 4pm but he never showed up which was a blessing in disguise as I managed to catch a shared taxi back for about 70 cents.

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I was so mightily relieved on the 2nd to get the very last seat on the 9.30am Tica Bus to Managua in Nicaragua. That was mainly due to waking up early and getting to the office at opening time to book the damn thing.

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Central America 2012/13 Pt IV: Livingston (Guatemala)

I can’t say I was planning on returning to Guatemala but due to the time I arrived by chicken bus at Punta Gorda in the south of Belize I didn’t have much choice but to take a boat to Livingston and delay my journey into Honduras until the next morning. As it was I didn’t enter Honduras until a few days later as the following day I, along with most of the backpackers staying at Casa de la Iguana (below), went on a day trip by boat to Playa Blanca.

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We departed Livingston sailing by the Statue of Liberty-esque figure (above) standing on the tiniest of islands in the middle of the sea not too far from shore. Before the beach we were taken to some waterfalls which probably are spectacular when its wet but when dried out they weren’t too much to look at. I enjoyed the hiking trail up the falls to find the jumping pool you see below. It was only about 7-8 metres tall but that was enough of a fall for the two jumps I did.

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We then moved on to Playa Blanca (literally translates as White Beach) which was very nice although not quite as amazing as advertised. The water certainly wasn’t as nice as other beaches I’ve been to in South-East Asia or Australia but it was still good to chill out in the sun although I couldn’t truly relax as my back had burned so red the previous day whilst snorkelling in Belize.

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I had met and become good friends with Graeme from Newcastle on the boat the previous day and back in Livingston a bit later I met up with him (he had done a different day trip to Rio Dulce and back) and went for some dinner (below), beers and on the hunt for fanny! It’s not what you think though as we were just searching for some tinned sardines made by a company called ‘Fanny’. Sadly, we couldn’t find any anywhere so I’m left with no choice but to show a picture of the product from Google images below.

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It was absolutely pounding down with rain amid very blustery conditions at around 4-5am on the day we were set to leave but thankfully we managed to get down to the harbour and take the boat over to Puerto Barrios without any further hints of rain. A taxi took us to the bus station where we parted fairly quickly with Graeme heading to Bay Islands in Honduras and me deciding that it may be easier to take a bus back to Guatemala City in order to go forward to Copan Ruinas (also in Honduras) without having to change local buses three or four times.

With hindsight it was probably a bad idea as when I got to Guatemala City and took a taxi to the Hedman Alas bus station I discovered there were no buses until the following morning. Furthermore, having agreed Q15 for the aforementioned taxi ride as well as gesturing the price using my fingers and palm the driver tried to con me into paying 50 or something like that. I wasn’t in the mood for such bullish*t so threw him Q20 ($2.50) and just walked off to find a nearby hotel in the city which I did not want to be back in.

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Central America 2012/13 Pt III: Caye Caulker (Belize)

This trip in the early hours didn’t get off to the best start as there was some altercation between the minibus people and two Swede guys whose tickets were for a different company but the minibus conductor had taken their tickets which they were trying to get on the bus to retrieve. I think this was misinterpreted by the driver as trying to get a free ride and he sped off leaving them on the pavement cursing as their cases were ran over in the process. Hopefully they managed to sort out their problems later but it wasn’t a very nice moment to witness and it left all of us on the bus in a state of shock.

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When I boarded the bus I had no idea where I was going to go once in Belize but seeing as almost everyone else was off to an island called Caye Caulker I thought I might as well do the same. This backpacker favourite island is no doubt very different to the real Belize and I felt mildly embarrassed about going there as I took the 45 minute ferry over for a couple of days of beach life.

I managed to find ‘Daisy’s Hotel’ on arrival and got the last room in one of the islands cheapest places. I had to wait an hour to check in properly so headed off to Marin’s Restaurant round the corner and splashed out on one of the islands specialities; lobster, presented in the form of curried rice as seen below.

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I later wandered one kilometre (about half the length of the island) up to The Split which has a tiny beach (a bit of sandy gravel!) next to a swimming area besides the beachside bar which was pumping out non-stop reggae beats. I sunbathed, took a dip and basically enjoyed the laid-back feel-good vibe of the place.

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After a lovely sunset with a Swedish couple I met up with a Canadian couple to have dinner and then I had a drink with a Dutch couple (who I met for breakfast by chance the following morning too) before breaking away from all these pairings to go to ‘I&I Bar’ for a rare night out on the p*ss with some American guy I met on the street on the way there.

The following day I booked on to a full days snorkelling tour rather than the half day one. Both were kind of misleading as the full one was a little under four hours so who knows how long the half one is! Short maybe but the six of us on the tour were still all fairly satisfied as we got to see and even swim with sharks, rays and turtles at three different spots. Little did I know that this area is actually the worlds second largest reef and inevitably I ended up burning my back quite badly.

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I took the 6.30am boat back to Belize City and was gonna hunt out some movie locations from ‘The Dogs Of War‘ (1980) and ‘The Mosquito Coast‘ (1986) but on exiting the Marine Terminal I decided that it was too dangerous a place to bother risking life and limb just for a few minor filming spots. Time was also ticking so I just got in a taxi and went to the national bus station where a bus to the southern point of the country was imminent.

With there not being another one till the afternoon it was, for once, a wise decision to have decided against the film location shots. Feeling the whole trip had been pretty standard (travel-wise) up to this point it felt good to be moving on one of the cheap, local chicken buses which are full of characters and incidents. I’m used to vendors coming on board to sell certain objects and food but this journey was the first time I’ve ever seen a guy get on a bus selling slices of his hot boxed pizza!

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A New Hope Filming Locations: Star Wars Traveller – Yavin 4 (a.k.a. Tikal)

 

Nineteen seconds! Just NINETEEN SECONDS! That is as long as the ‘Star Wars Episode IV‘ scene in Guatemala lasted. The shot of Tikal, first seen on 98 minutes (and again on 105 mins), features the Millennium Falcon spaceship flying over Yavin 4 which is overseen by a rebel standing on top of Temple IV in the western part of the national park. I have wanted to go to this 550-sq km place for a while now, and believe it or not, long before I even knew it was used briefly in the original 1977 film.

I arrived on the island of Flores (albeit an island which is connected to Santa Elena via a 500m causeway) on December 24th following a Continue reading

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Central America 2012/13 Pt II: Antigua (Guatemala)

The day before I climbed Volcan Pacaya I also went into Antigua from my base near Guatemala City Airport which was chosen simply because I arrived late at night and thought it just as easy to take the 60 minute journey to the tourist showpiece of Guatemala. On reflection I should have just moved from the capital city to Antigua on waking up but I decided to stay put for another night.

Antigua looked great with its cobblestoned roads and its multi-coloured colonial buildings which played up to my stereotypical view of Central American culture perfectly. I spent many many hours wandering around the Unesco World Heritage area taking in all the sights which began with Parque Central followed by its churches, plazas and markets amid the stunning setting of its surrounding volcanoes.

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Iglesia y Convento de la Recoleccion is a church on the outskirts of Antigua and its fair to say that its in a real state of decay. I loved it for this reason and it was great to explore this impressive monument which was built in the early 18th century and destroyed in the 1773 earthquake. I spent the majority of the day here in the latter part of the afternoon  chilling out on the grass away from the crowds gathered in the more central parts of the city.

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Due to my increased interest in regional cuisine in this year just gone I was keen to try out the local food more than I have tended to do in past trips. After my visit to the church ruins I found a restaurant to satisfy my needs though I’m afraid to say I can’t remember what it was even called. The pictures below will give you an idea and the owner did tell me it was the most Guatemalan style dish on the menu. I washed it down with a couple of  Gallo beers and on saying that I only had a $100 bill he even said I could go to a bank or come back the following day and pay. I told him very honestly that if I left without paying I wouldn’t be back!! I used my credit card to settle the bill which was under $10.

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Central America 2012/13 Pt I: Volcan Pacaya (Guatemala)

“Officially this is one of the most dangerous places on the planet and its also known as the land of disasters. Hurricanes rage through here, earthquakes rip it up and molten lava spews from its volcanoes. Welcome to Guatemala!” – Bear Grylls,  ‘Man vs Wild‘ (S04E09)

That kind of thing would normally put people off going to a country, and in truth I wasn’t even aware of such info when I booked the trip, but I was very excited about visiting a volcano. It was on my second full day (Dec 23) that I went on an afternoon trip to see the active Volcan Pacaya (2552m) which is 25km away from Antigua.

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The posters on display in the travel agency (no pamphlets available) were all showing pictures of lava running down the volcano which is kind of false advertising as there’s been no such activity for many years now not that I knew that at the time. As well as the climb itself it was actually nice to be able to chat with a few other travellers among the tour group. Some people took a donkey ride up to the top but of course I was determined to climb it under my own steam not that it was too difficult.

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Near the summit after about 90 minutes climbing we were given marshmallows on a stick to toast under a natural hot rock. There was also the little hole in the ground you see below which was steaming hot inside and too good a photo opportunity to turn down. We had to descend quickly after this as the sun set and it turned dark which added to the excitement for me.

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TF Top 20……Filming Location Trips For 2012

Whilst 2011 was indeed pretty awesome for the movie locations I covered the last 12 months weren’t exactly bad either with some great shots taken along the way in the likes of  Edinburgh, Paris, London, Melbourne, Sydney, Hong Kong and New York. Click on the links below to see more.

1. Trainspotting (Click here)

Christmas trip 2011-2012 284  Christmas trip 2011-2012 260

2. About A Boy (Click here)

Christmas trip 2011-2012 423  Christmas trip 2011-2012 336

3. Quadrophenia (Click here)

Christmas trip 2011-2012 410  Christmas trip 2011-2012 406

4. Amélie (Click here)

Christmas trip 2011-2012 567  Christmas trip 2011-2012 547

5. The Bourne Identity/Supremacy/Ultimatum (Click here, here and here)

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6. Lock, Stock & Two Smoking Barrels (Click here)

Christmas trip 2011-2012 390  Christmas trip 2011-2012 398

7. Mission Impossible II (Click here)

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8. The Matrix (Click here)

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9. Infernal Affairs (Click here)

Hong Kong 2012 100  Hong Kong 2012 138

10. Spider-Man (Click here and here)

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11. Ghostbusters (Click here)

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12. Batman/The Dark Knight (Click here and here)

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13. Muriel’s Wedding (Click here)

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14. Lara Croft Tomb Raider – The Cradle Of Life (Click here)

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15. The Man With The Golden Gun (Click here)

Hong Kong 2012 145  Hong Kong 2012 181

16. Snatch (Click here)

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17. The Italian Job (Click here)

Christmas trip 2011-2012 420  Christmas trip 2011-2012 122

18. The Ramen Girl (Click here)

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19. Sex And The City (Click here)

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20. Goodnight Sweetheart (Click here)

Christmas trip 2011-2012 404  Christmas trip 2011-2012 401

Other 2012 locations for the films listed below can be found here

Live And Let Die; Bridget Jones’s Diary; Basic Instinct 2; Superman; Coming To America; Black Swan; When Harry Met Sally; Sliver; I Am Legend; Breakfast At Tiffany’s; Four Weddings & A Funeral; Notting Hill; Love Actually; Ju-on: The Grudge 2; Mad Max; On The Beach; Queen Of The Damned; Romper Stomper; Salaam Namaste and Adventures of Priscilla Queen Of The Desert.

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London Filming Locations: Rom-Com Special

When it comes to romantic comedies the combination of writer Richard Curtis and actor Hugh Grant have come up with a fair few crackers with London often at the heart of them albeit a more rounded and well polished version of the capital. As I’m missing a few pivotal locations from each movie I thought it a good idea to cobble together the likes of ‘Four Weddings And A Funeral‘ (1994), ‘Notting Hill‘ (1999) and ‘Love Actually‘ (2003) together into one super rom-com special.

Somerset House (below) is a short distance from Temple tube station and appears as scenery footage on 4 minutes in ‘Love Actually‘ but for me it was more famously used in two Pierce Brosnan-era Bond films; ‘Goldeneye‘ (1995) and ‘Tomorrow Never Dies‘ (1997).

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The Ritz (above) at 150 Piccadilly is where some memorable press interview scenes were filmed in ‘Notting Hill.‘ Japanese restaurant Nobu (below) at 19 Old Park Lane was used in the same film and was where Julia Roberts confronted a couple of guys who she was being slagged off by.

Christmas trip 2011-2012 267  Christmas trip 2011-2012 278

Hugh Grant’s flat in ‘Four Weddings and a Funeral‘ is 22 Highbury Terrace (above) across from the park of Highbury Fields. Andie MacDowell turned up there in the rain at the climax of the film.

It’s now a boring office but in ‘Love Actually‘, 26-27 Great Sutton Street (below) was the nude gallery of Christmas art by Mark (Andrew Lincoln) as seen on 35 minutes.

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The fourth and final wedding in ‘Four Weddings…‘ took place at the Church of St Bartholomew the Great (above) close to Smithfield Market by Barbican tube station. Two ‘Notting Hill‘ locations now with the blue shop pictured below the more interesting one as it was here that normal guy Hugh Grant worked in the ‘Travel Book Company’ where he met the very famous Anna Scott played by Julia Roberts. Its now, perhaps aptly, named Notting Hill and is on 142 Portobello Road.

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The actual Travel Bookshop on which it was based is at 13 Blenheim Crescent and the picture which I’m outside above was taken in 2002 at Universal Studios in Hollywood where much of the movie was actually made.

Poplar Road (below) in Herne Hill is the street in ‘Love Actually‘ where the Prime Minister goes knocking on doors to try and find Natalie (Martine McCutcheon) and after singing a couple of carols, he and his chauffeur eventually get lucky at number 102. It’s a 15 minute walk from Denmark Hill station on the London Overground line.

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Back in Notting Hill and further along Portobello Road at number 201 is Saints Tattoo Parlour (below) which could be seen in the opening montage of the same film as a drunk guy exits the shop wondering why on earth he got a tattoo saying “I Love Ken.”

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The Salvation Army building (above) a couple of doors along at number 205 is where the ‘Notting Hill‘ four seasons sequence ends in Spring.

56 minutes into ‘Love Actually‘, Mark (Andrew Lincoln) emerges from the back entrance of Oxo Tower Wharf building (below) on Barge House Street after Juliet (Keira Knightley) discovers his real feelings for her having seen his wedding video of close ups of her beautiful face.

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Dido’s ‘Here With Me‘ provides the soundtrack as he leaves feeling gutted and continues on through the courtyard (above) and on to the banks of the Thames River.

Close to Bayswater Underground station is Whitley’s (below); the department store seen at the start of the film on 4 minutes when there are still 5 weeks to Christmas.

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In ‘Four Weddings…‘ Carrie (Andie MacDowell) tries on wedding dresses in Albrissi at 1 Sloane Square (above) which is now a vacant store.

The Millennium Bridge (below) is briefly seen about 18 minutes into ‘Love Actually‘.

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In the same film we see Alan Rickman’s character Harry buy a necklace for Mia in Selfridges (above) at 400 Oxford Street. This was one of the funniest scenes where Rowan Atkinson appears as the shop assistant who takes an eternity to wrap the gift whilst Harry gets nervous about the imminent arrival of his wife played by Emma Thompson.

Many thanks to movie-locations.com
 
For other London filming locations click on the links below:Star Wars Episode I: The Phantom Menace    Trainspotting    Mission: Impossible    Lara Croft Tomb Raider    The Bourne Ultimatum   Harry Potter & The Philosophers Stone   James Bond    About A Boy    Quadrophenia    Bridget Jones’s Diary    Goodnight Sweetheart    Lock, Stock & Two Smoking Barrels    Basic Instinct 2    Batman Begins/The Dark Knight    The Italian Job    Snatch    Skyfall    Notting Hill    The World Is Not Enough
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On The Trail Of John Rain (雨) Part IV – New York

He may be an anti-hero somewhat but John Rain is one that is very appealing to readers of Barry Eisler’s espionage fiction. Tokyo may be the place which has been at the heart of the series but New York city has also played its part from time to time throughout the novels. Eisler’s leading role creation is half Japanese half American and not your typical protagonist and of course he is far from morally perfect. As with the cafes, bars, hotels and restaurants in previous ‘On the trail of John Rain’ entries these New York city ones also play mere cameo roles in the novels. Nothing particularly exciting or pivotal happens at them and they are used simply to make the story seem more in tune with reality.

 

In ‘The Last Assassin‘ (2006) (later retitled as ‘Extremis‘) Rain and Dox meet at Continue reading

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