Cambodia: Don’t Look Back in Angkor

No messing around on day one for us in Siem Reap as once we had forked out $40 for our 3-day pass we set off to see the big one. Having become accustomed to the carnival fanfare of tourist traps we were pleasantly surprised that it wasn’t really overflowing but thats maybe mainly due to its huge size. That was to come at the ‘Tomb Raider‘ based Ta Prohm the following day which was far more compact but as for Angkor Wat it was of course hugely impressive but to really appreciate all the fine archeological and architectural detail you really have to have a strong interest in the subject.

What was great was that we could really explore the temples which is not possible at some other world heritage sites but I guess that will also be its downfall inevitably one day as tourism takes its toll on the place. Having split up to explore it I ended up ascending possibly the steepest ever steps that I have experienced. As always going up is the easy bit but I was absolutely bricking it when I saw how steep the descend was.

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After looking around for a while this was one such case when a seller offering me a drink got me at the right moment and then I told some little kid that I wanted magnets and overhead postcard shots and before I knew it he was back by my side offering me exactly what I wanted for a dollar. I certainly couldn’t refuse him after that!

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Next, we walked to the huge area that makes up Angkor Thom and wandered around the impressive Bayon within that at a leisurely pace as we were already feeling templed out and that was after only day one of three!

Not sure what it was that I ate on day one (or even before that) in Angkor but my stomach was in real pain on our second day as we started out at Ta Prohm which as aforementioned was where Angelina Jolie was filmed for some of ‘Tomb Raider‘. I was just feeling so exhausted on that day and to make things worse it was also New Years Eve which is never the best of times to be feeling under the weather.

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Cambodia is a country stricken by poverty but theres so many beggars and people selling you tacky souvenirs that it can become tiresome when you hear the whining sounds of “Hello sir, you wanna buy? One dollar?” constantly and very persistently. I had enjoyed the banter with them the day before but wasn’t in such a great mood here but I managed to keep face and in some ways I was a little disappointed that I never did see a tourist screaming at one of the local kids.

We walked for hours ending back at Angkor Wat late afternoon where I slept and woke up in time to see a reasonable sunset and for our New Years eve night out we went to a Cambodian club just away from the backpacker area which was the darkest club I’ve ever seen. No expense spared on lighting in this place and not too much celebration at midnight too! The dancefloor cleared at about 11.58pm and we assumed there was gonna be some kind of countdown and celebration but not so as we saw in the new year watching two people blow up balloons on stage in some competition or other. Not quite on a scale with Sydney Harbour, Times Square or Big Ben!!

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Our third and final day saw us hire bicycles to go around some of the temples which was nice and enabled us to see a lot more. This time we went back to Ta Prohm just before sunset which was amazing. Not because of the sunset but because it was completely deserted in contrast to the previous days hordes of tourists.

You can see the photos from the temples of Angkor here

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Cambodia: Angkor What?

It’s a fact that the one and only reason people visit Cambodia is just to see Angkor Wat. In order to reach this world famous sight, my friends Richard, Craig and I decided to take a two day tour from Ho Chi Minh in Vietnam to Cambodia’s capital city Phnom Penh via the Mekong Delta.

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After a long time on the bus and a slightly disappointing floating market boat tour, we had a nice sunset Mekong cruise along the Hau river to reach our nights destination in Chau Doc which surprisingly provided us with a highlight.

The three of us plus another guy called Hyo went out for a wander and came across a group of men sitting around watching English Premier League action. I’m not sure if it was a bar or just someones house (as the Vietnamese don’t really drink alcohol so much) but we piled in to this open area just off the street, and the pregnant wife of the owner was  sent out by him to get our beers each time we ordered which we felt a little guilty about so we only ordered the five drinks each!! There is often no refrigerated beer in Vietnam so ice is sometimes added to keep it cold which ruins the taste a bit, and with the huge blocks of ice added it took quite a long time to consume each beer.

The next morning we went to a floating village and floating fish farms via local rowing boats which certainly satisfied our expectations of what we felt the delta should have been like.

 

Once at the village of Cham, I mixed it with the locals for a game of Vietnamese-style volleyball featuring a shuttlecock-like object being used rather than a ball which made it difficult to play. It was good fun though despite the best rally only being about six or seven! The rest of the morning and the afternoon was then spent on boats taking us into Cambodia where a load of us were squeezed into a mini-bus that went along a very bumpy road to complete the journey to Phnom Penh.

We persuaded a tuk-tuk driver to give us an hour tour of Phnom Penh while we drank our beers. Credit has to be given to the driver as he did awfully well to make it last an hour as it’s a quite a small place. He had to resort to showing us the seediest bars in town or maybe that’s the standard given the amount of sex tourists who visit such places!

The following morning we were straight out of Phnom Penh and in a shared taxi ($30 between us for the 4 hour ride) going to the beach resort of Sihanoukville in the south west of Cambodia. That was an adventure in itself given some of the ridiculous blind overtaking that these Michael Schumacher-wannabe taxi drivers do.

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Once in Sihanoukville, we did another fairly unimpressive tuk-tuk tour before ending up at a beautiful beach resort which was rammed with tourists. That was quite surprising as we had hardly seen a soul anywhere else! As soon as we stepped on to the beautiful beach, we were accosted by the locals trying to sell us fruit, massages, manicures, t-shirts, drinks and the usual cr*p. It wasn’t so easy to really relax but once the sun started to go down they did begin to disappear.

After just the one night there, we were in a taxi heading back to Phnom Penh the next morning where we would then get another taxi up to Siem Reap; the gateway to the temples of Angkor.

Along the way we stopped at a couple of little places at the side of the main road (friends of the driver who wanted us to spread our tourist dollars among them??) which gave us a bit more of an insight into the lives of the Cambodians as all we had really experienced was a country which had sold a little of its soul in return for the dollars that are basically made off the back of the awe-inspiring Angkor Wat.

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Vietnam: Ho Ho Ho Chi Minh City! Christmas in the Capital City

Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) formerly known as Saigon provided the base for my travels in Vietnam and Cambodia over the festive season not just because of its location but also because it was where my friend and ex-colleague Richard now lives and works.

PICT0050  1st vietnamese meal

It’s a bit of a cliche but this city was like no other I’ve ever experienced. A very noisy and polluted place packed full of about three million motorbikes and few cars with seemingly very few rules on the streets. You’ve really got to have your wits about you in this place to survive. It’s certainly not for the feint hearted but for a thrill-seeker like myself being ferried around on the back of these motorbikes as I navigated the city was very very exciting. The roads in HCMC are basically a free for all with bikers weaving their way around the traffic and pedestrians while constantly beeping their horns. The roundabouts were particularly mad and a bit like Shibuya crossing here in Tokyo but with bikes instead of people criss-crossing and cutting through each other.

I was fascinated by this form of travel and could have taken a photo of nearly every single vehicle as helmets are not worn and people ride whilst carrying all sorts of strange and unbelievable artefacts like trees, long pipes, fruit produce, boxes stacked up high and of course the family all piled on to the one bike! Makes all those ‘crazy’ people that you sometimes see on ‘Police, Camera, Action‘ seem very tame!

HCMC appeared to me to be like just one big market. For the Vietnamese the streets are their offices with every part of the pavement being used to sell fruit, shoes, books, sunglasses, drinks, food or whatever and then their are the ubiquitous offerings of a ride to somewhere on the back of the motos.

Not knowing how long I was going to be back in HCMC for I wanted to get a fair few things done before I went to Cambodia so I hired two guides who approached me as hundreds of different people did every day trying to get something out of me. Both guys were very nice and spoke reasonable English beyond the usual “You want moto?” and so on but there’s always that slight sense of mistrust as so many people seem intent on ripping you off even though its all very cheap by our normal standards. Given that I was on holiday and on limited time I couldn’t really worry so much about doing everything on such a shoestring budget.

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In terms of the sights I visited many Chinese style pagodas and temples in Cholon but nothing too spectacular in my opinion. The War Remnants museum was my first stop and that had some very graphic photos and the Re-unification Palace followed that before I got a bit war-ed out.

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For one day only though as the following day the war theme continued providing one of my highlights as I went to see the Cu-Chi Tunnels where I was able to crawl through the underground tunnels and drop down into the tiniest of holes where the Viet-cong guerillas used to hide themselves. Plenty of booby traps to look at too before I headed back to HCMC to visit the Binh Soup Shop which was the secret HQ of the Viet-Cong where many attacks were planned. My only plan was of course to have a cheap noodle soup (Pho) dish which was my staple Vietnamese diet during my stay.

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2006: Looking Back at the Last 12 Months

My holidays have begun and just before I set off to Vietnam and Cambodia for a couple of weeks I thought I should do what most of the media (without anything new to write about!) do and take a look back at the last 12 months.

 

This time last year I spent the Christmas period travelling around Japan which began with a trip to see my mate Teru in Fukuoka who I hadn’t seen since Perth four years prior to that. From Fukuoka I took in the sights of Hiroshima (famous for the A-Bomb Dome and Miyajima’s floating torii), Osaka, Nara, Himeji, Kobe and Kyoto.

The new year started with my first trip abroad to South Korea which was probably one of my coldest ever experiences but a good one nevertheless as I got to to see the World Cup and Olympic Stadium’s in Seoul and take the surreal border crossing into North Korea.

Similar cold times were spent on the slopes of Hakuba Ski Resort in Nagano which I visited a fair few times as I really got into my snowboarding during the ski season.

In terms of events, I saw both The Magic Numbers and Franz Ferdinand play a great live show at the Budokan which is probably Japan’s most famous live venue. The music continued at Summer Sonic ’06 in August when I got my first live taste of the Arctic Monkeys, Muse and Linkin Park. The strangest event of the year though had to be the Penis festival in Kawasaki at the start of April.

I lost count of the trips I did in Japan but my highlights included Nokogiriyama, Onjuku, Fujiku Highland, Tobu world square and also a trip far down south to Okinawa and some islands which were actually nearer to Taiwan. I did some good snorkelling there but sadly not long after that holiday was my split with Ai after a couple of years together albeit on and off at times. Life goes on though. Hong Kong and Taiwan were my other two trips abroad this year which I did alone and both were great fun.

The purchasing of the computer laptop which I type this on as well as an iPod and the starting up of this blog took me into a whole new ‘otaku‘ (geek) world before I knew it and that was further topped off with many a trip to a Maid Cafe or two!

Anyway, a very busy year and no doubt I’ve missed out some other stuff. I guess it may be difficult to do as much in 2007 but whatever I do you can be sure to read it here!!

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

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TF Top……Singles & Albums Of 2006

Singles:

1. The Automatic – Monster:  Monster by name monster by reputation. Not just the song of the Summer.

2. Mary J Blige & U2 – One:  Not #1 but a fantastic cover of an all-time classic.

3. Kasabian – Empire:  Great fist-pumping stomper of a tune from Leicesters finest.

4. Embrace – Natures Law:  Best thing they’ve done for a long time.

5. The Strokes – Juicebox:  Return to form for their 1st single from their 3rd album

The rest: The Magic Numbers – Take A Chance, Muse – Starlight, Arctic Monkeys – When The Sun Goes Down, Primal Scream – Country Girl, My Chemical Romance – Welcome To The Black Parade, Gnarls Barkley – Crazy, Sergio Mendes/Black Eyed Peas – Mas Que Nada, Razorlight – In The Morning, The Kooks – Ooh La, The Raconteurs – Broken Boy Soldier, The Fratellis – Chelsea Dagger, Snow Patrol – Chasing Cars, Shakira – Hips Don’t Lie, The Streets – Never Went To Church, Lostprophets – Rooftops, The Feeling – Never Be Lonely, Orson – Bright Idea, Jamelia – Something About You

Albums:

1. Arctic Monkeys – Whatever People Say I Am, That’s What I’m Not

2. Red Hot Chili Peppers – Stadium Arcadium

3. Kasabian – Empire

4. Muse – Black Holes And Revelations

5. Keane – Under The Iron Sea

6. James Dean Bradfield – The Great Western

7. The Raconteurs – Broken Boy Soldiers

8. The Strokes – First Impressions Of Earth

9. Razorlight – Razorlight

10. Lostprophets – Liberation Transmission

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Countdown to Christmas 2006 in Tokyo

Time for my inevitable ‘Christmas in Japan’ blog entry. The idea of Christmas hadn’t even entered my head when I saw a plastic tree at work towards the end of November which I subsequently helped decorate. Far far too early to be doing such a thing in my opinion but as its for a business and not at home it was a little more acceptable given that most other places were already caked in Christmas decorations.

Next up was the company party last Saturday night which was two hours of free booze and food for us teachers at a British bar filled with over 100 students from a small handfull of local schools. Very cramped it was indeed but nevertheless enjoyable and also nice to see a few of my students and ex-students in a non-classroom situation.

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Despite having only been to the very same place about six weeks ago I couldn’t find it for ages so I arrived 10 minutes late which is my possible lame excuse (needed to ‘make up’ those 10 mins as it was all-you-can-drink) for getting so drunk that I couldn’t even read the words in karaoke later. My resulting actions were to take the ‘I think I’ll just lie down here for a moment’ option. I finally woke up at about 6am and left with a couple of others once we’d paid the somewhat excessive bill. I could have stayed in a hotel for the night at the same price!!

As for Christmas in Japan, I still find the idea of it a little strange as the 25th is just a regular working day with no fuss and bother being made about anything by the majority of people. Maybe thats not so strange in itself but what is is the fact that the build up is hyped up to the full with the decorations and songs being wheeled out year after year. This will be my fourth Christmas away from home and the third in Asia though given the huge difference in climate between Vietnam/Cambodia and Japan I guess it will be like when I spent the ‘main’ day on the beach in the sun in Perth in Australia five years ago. That to me probably felt more different to me than the two in Japan as warm weather just does not feel like a true Christmas to me.

My Christmas message comes courtesy of Bart Simpson – “Aren’t we forgeting the true meaning of Christmas? You know, the birth of Santa.” 
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The Tobacco & Salt Museum Has to be one of Tokyo’s Quirkiest!

I don’t like smoking and I have never even tried it and I’m not just saying that because I know my parents will read this! Its a fact. I stopped adding salt to my food long ago so with that in mind it may be surprising that I paid a visit to the Tobacco & Salt Museum in Shibuya yesterday afternoon.

This is one of those quirky little museums found in Tokyo though it wasn’t quite on a par with the Parasite Museum in Meguro which I have visited twice for some reason. That museum had some of the most disgusting exhitbits such as elephantitis photos and a 30 foot long tapeworm. I kid you not!

In contrast, yesterdays visit was far more tame but I was curious about how such dull subject matter would be exhibited. The 100 yen (about 50 pence) entry provided me with an English pamphlet as the information was predominantly in Japanese which I didn’t really mind as I feel more obliged to read everything when it’s in English and then it usually fails to lodge in my brain anyway. Besides who really cares so much about the history and production of these two products! The collection of cigarette packets from around the world however was quite interesting as were some of the traditional ukiyo-e picture cards.

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Another thing that I hate is tequila as the first time I had it (thanks to the ‘Terrorvision‘ song ‘Tequila‘ which was out around New Years Eve 1998) I was sick in my sleep (nothing to do with the countless other drinks I had then of course!) so wasn’t I the lucky one to discover that there was an ‘extra’ temporary ‘Viva Tequila’ exhibition on a different floor!!

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Elvis Lives On In Tokyo!

I have shown photos before of the Elvis dancers who congregate in Yoyogi Park every Sunday but thats not the only Elvis-related thing in Tokyo as there is actually a museum dedicated to the icon. Hidden away on a side street from Harajuku’s Takeshita Dori (street) is the Rock & Roll Museum which I visited today.

 

This is basically one floor of Elvis memorabillia with the downstairs containing a load of merchandise including quite a bit of stuff from glam rockers Kiss. Apart from the odd song by these artists (namely Crazy nights, Suspicious Minds and Can’t help falling in love) I certainly wouldn’t say I am a fan but I was impressed by the look of the place from the outside which features an Elvis statue.

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Japan Football Museum

What are your memories of the 2002 World Cup Finals held jointly in Korea and Japan? Beckham’s penalty winner against the Argies? Ronaldinho lobbing Seaman from 40 yards? Senegal beating the holders France in the opening game? The Koreans riding their luck to reach the semis? Oliver Kahn almost single handedly taking a poor german side to the final or Rivaldos cheating antics?!

At the start of 2006 I visited the Seoul World Cup Stadium and its museum in Korea and last month I went to the Japan Football Museum in Ochanomizu where, I did what no Englishman has done since Bobby Moore in 1966. I lifted the World Cup….or at least I would have done had the fake trophy not been stuck to the trophy stand which Brazilian captain Cafu stood on when he lifted the trophy aloft in the 2002 final.

I was captivated by this World cup as I was just back from my world travels and jobless so could watch everything. This tournament further heightened my intent in coming to the land of the rising sun. Its just a shame that I took so long to get my ar*e into gear and get out here once I’d decided that I wanted to see Japan.

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Anyway, this nice museum devotes most of its space to those 2002 finals and includes many exhibits and photos including Damien Duff’s Irish shirt and Inamoto’s Japan shirt. Obviously the museum caters predominantly to the Japanese displaying the history of football in the country and also featuring a reproduction of the national teams changing rooms in 2002. The highlight of this place though has to be the ‘Mega Vision’ TV which was like being at the game as you had a panoramic view across the the giant screen enabling you to see the whole pitch from one camera angle. A view that the directors never use with the television coverage.

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“Everybody’s Going For Those Kinky Boots, Kinky Boots”

I have recently talked a few times about the changing colours of maple leaves and the Japanese fascination with it. Not something I ever took any notice of back in England but I guess I took that kind of thing for granted whereas in this metropolis green spaces are very few and far between.

However, I believe the best thing about this season in Japan is not this change but the one concerning Japanese girls changing from summer sandals to boots. Come the 1st of September a few pairs appear and by the time we enter mid-October they are being worn by almost the entire female population. While the strappy summer sandal things worn can only really enhance the more cute and young girls these sexy calf-length specimens can make the more average girls more appealing.

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These creations come in a range of styles, colours and sizes and are widespread through nearly all ages of Japanese girls. Elsewhere, girls who wear these boots may occasionally be thought of, perhaps unfairly, by some people as being ‘easy’ or whatever but I don’t think people here are even aware of such negative connections as they just wear them to be cute, warm, fashionable and because everyone wears them. Whatever the reason it doesn’t really matter in my eyes just as long as the tradition continues!!

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