Kyushu Trip 2014 Pt VII: We Got Very Lucky To See The Wonderful Mount Aso On A Rare Clear Day

Our final day in Kyushu brought about some great fortune as we were able to see Mount Aso very clearly amid great conditions whereas the day before had been shrouded in mist. Mount Aso is the largest volcano in Japan and among the largest in the world. The first observation lookout was at Daikanpou which is the highest point to be able to view the whole caldera (large volcanic crater). The scenery was awesome with some splendid views of the greenery in the area.

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Mount Aso consists of five peaks and the view of the peaks from this place is likened to a buddha lying down to die (Nehan-zo) though why they have to add the dying bit on the end I don’t know! Why can’t it just resemble a buddha just resting?!

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No pictures to show but I did eat horse-meat (ba-niku) as my girlfriend bought a stick of it from a vendor as we returned to the car park at Daikanpou. Whilst there was a huge furore around horse-meat in the UK early last year, the reaction in Japan was one of surprise as its fairly common to eat it here. I’m afraid to say that I liked it a lot but can’t see myself making a habit of eating it too much!

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The next stop was across the road from the Aso Volcano Museum. Kusasenri-ga-hama is a vast plain with cows grazing on the grass covering the area. The main attraction here didn’t seem to be the beautiful flattened crater of an ancient volcano but the chance to sit on a horse whilst circling a very short and simple course!

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Not far from there was the Nakadake crater which was shaped over 20,000 years ago and was is actually still active! A car park has been built only a minutes walk away which makes things all to convenient not that its such plain sailing as there was a tailback of cars going on and on for ever. We had to wait in traffic quite a while but the queues on our descend were way longer!

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Mt. Nakadake is located within the caldera that is 25 km in diameter. Nakadake’s crater itself is 600 metres in diameter, 130 metres deep and has a circumference of 4 km. This Grand Canyon-esque place emits smoke and due to the presence of toxic volcanic gas the crater is sometimes restricted. People with respiratory problems such as me with asthma, are actually told to refrain from approaching the crater at any time but of course I ignored that warning which I guess is just a disclaimer to save them from law suits.

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The yellow rock-looking things below, which are supposedly good for preventing cockroaches, bugs, ants and so on, were being sold at a stall for 200 yen a piece. Maybe an interesting souvenir but as there was a sign saying that they couldn’t be taken on a plane (even in checked luggage) it certainly wasn’t worth bothering with.

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The sign below says worlds number one volcano although I’m not exactly sure what its referring to! Biggest? Best?! For me, it was certainly a spectacular place and given what we were told about the previous days visibility being pretty much non-existent, we felt very lucky to have seen it in such glorious conditions.

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The small, picturesque, green volcanic cone shaped slope (below) of Kome-zuka (954m) was seen a few times throughout the day and as we exited the Nakadake area we pulled over to catch a final glimpse of its beauty. The name actually means ‘rice mound’ and its another extinct volcano.

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We then went to Aso Farm Land which was ultimately very disappointing for all of us, especially my girlfriends dad who said that it had change a lot since he last went many many years earlier. This was a health theme resort with huge massive crowds of people, restaurants galore, souvenir shops aplenty, many photo opportunities, lots of baths, spas and other such amenities. Basically, it had all the makings of your typical Japanese tourist trap but I couldn’t quite get why this place was so popular! As we had Momiji with us it was a tad difficult to find somewhere to have lunch so we ended up just buying some yaki-soba, beer and the huge turkey drumstick (below) which we consumed at one of the many outside tables. It was still nice enough but not quite what we had in mind!

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There was time for one more onsen at Uinasu hot springs (400 yen entry) in the early evening before dinner which meant leaving Momiji alone at the hotel. Whilst the previous onsen had been fairly small, quiet affairs this one was a busy place with a sauna, two outdoor and four indoor pools (both electric and herb ones) and there was even an ice-cold pool which I managed to brave for a few seconds before returning to the hot baths. A nice relaxing way to bring the curtain down on a great trip around a part of the country I’d never seen but hope to visit again.

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Kyushu Trip 2014 Pt VI: Aso-san Area

I think its fair to say that the western attitude to bathing fully naked in public with strangers is different to that of Asian people who have grown up with such customs like onsen (hot springs) and sento (public bathhouses). Japanese people don’t seem to have any problems with seeing colleagues, friends and family (of the same sex) without their clothes on but the British stance on going au natural with other members of the same sex (in non-gay ways) isn’t quite the same. With that in mind I can’t say I was ever too keen to share a bath with my prospective father-in-law but having dodged one bullet in Amakusa I knew it was only a matter of time before it happened.

So having started the day in Amakusa we arrived in the beautifully landscaped Aso-san area late morning and on discovering that the restaurant my father-in-law wanted to visit had actually been closed for five years, we made alternative plans. A quick sauna and onsen was taken where we were the only ones present and all my pre-conecpetions about being naked alongside the man whose daughter I’m marrying were laid to rest. I really needn’t have worried about it at all.

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We were all absolutely starving by the time we arrived at a local soba (noodles) restaurant in the middle of nowhere. With some wonderful views outside the window we sucked up the delicious noodles in no time and then moved on to our next destination.

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Shirakawa Yoshimi-jinja is far more than a nice little shrine tucked away amid plenty of greenery for it possesses the Shirakawa-Suigen fountainhead (or is it the fountainhead which possesses the shrine?!) which is an amazing pond yielding an abundance of good, clear, quality water. It really is amazing that you can actually drink the water and they even sell empty bottles (which you can properly cap like a bottle bought in a shop) that you can fill with the water using the funnels which are provided.

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My hot-spring bathing accomplice really wanted to take me and his daughter (a.k.a. my fiancée) to Tatta Aso Sannomiya jinja (more commonly known simply as Aso Shrine) which is the most noted Shinto shrine in Kumamoto prefecture.

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It’s been a place of worship going back to the 600’s and many visitors come to appeal to the local deity for a number of things. Our main reason for visiting was that it has a pine tree that is believed to bestow good fortune in marriage. For this to truly work we had to walk around the tree twice as you can see some girls doing in the picture below.

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After that we headed off to our lodgings for the night amid some spectacular scenery. I was keen to stop for photographs but knew that I would have to hold tight and wait for the following day when we’d get to see Mount Aso up close.

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Kyushu Trip 2014 Pt V: Lavish Seafood & Sights In The City of The 17th Century Christian Rebellion

On leaving Kumamoto City behind we headed south to on to Amakusa to stay at a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) for the night. This place is a series of islands off the west coast of Kyushu and the drive there was particularly nice as we drove over a number of bridges which connect the islands. Sadly, there’s no photos to prove that as the beauty was only seen from the car window!

My girlfriends parents had booked us (including Momiji the dog) all in to a place which is mean feat in itself as dogs are rarely ever allowed to stay in these places. This particular ryokan had it’s own private beach (of sorts) which allowed for a late afternoon amble over  the rocks that lay between the red bridge and our lodgings for the night.

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The highlight of our stay was the lavish seafood evening meal featuring a full octopus, giant-sized shrimp, ise-ebi (big lobster), extravagantly decorated hirame (halibut) and some other types of sashimi. I’m pretty sure I’ve never eaten such delicacies and I’m very grateful to my future in-laws for treating us to this.

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It’s customary in Japanese ryokan to have an onsen or two (or just a communal bath if there’s no natural hot spring water in the area) and that means changing into the yukata afterwards which we’re all wearing in the photos.

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Breakfast the following morning was a very traditional Japanese one and though dishwashers are fairly common place these days (not in our house though for it is me who is the dish-washer!) I pity those who used to have to wash-up the dozens of dishes that each and every person used! I had a quick onsen (hot spring) after that and then we departed as there was one stop to make before heading north to the Aso-san area.

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Amakusa Shiro Memorial Hall was an expensive (600 yen entry) place to enter but actually quite interesting as the city is the site of the Christian rebellion in the 17th century whereby the surviving Christians continued to practice their faith in secret despite persecution.

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Kyushu Trip 2014 Pt IV: Kumamoto Castle

Over the years in Japan I’ve racked up a number of castles on my visits and the one in Kumamoto is certainly up there as one of the most impressive. Kumamoto Castle is considered one of the three premier castles in Japan, along with Matsumoto Castle and Himeji CastleDue to its appearances in the likes of ‘You Only Live Twice‘ (1967) and Akira Kurosawa’s ‘Kagemusha‘ (1980) the one in Himeji is likely to always be my personal favourite but Kumamoto is a close second thanks to the beautiful scenery surrounding this modern reproduction. It also has its own part in movie history as the legendary Kurosawa filmed a lot of the King Lear inspired ‘Ran‘ (1985) in Kumamoto prefecture including its castle in the city of the same name. 

Yet again it was another early start as we took a couple of bullet train rides from Nagasaki to Kumamoto station via Tosu. Like Hachiko waiting to meet its master in Shibuya all those years ago, Momiji (the family dog) was standing by to meet us at our destination alongside my girlfriends parents of course!

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It was to only be a brief stop in Kumamoto to see the vast castle area which dominates the city. The outer area is free for all to roam around but it’s 500 yen to enter the inner area that hosts the main towers which were rebuilt in 1960. The largest tower stands about 30 metres tall (on top of the stone wall) and is a six-storied one whilst the smaller one next to it has four stories.

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After a couple of cheesy photo shots outside the castle we went inside Hon-maru Goten Grand Hall which is a reconstruction of the original palace’s living quarters that were destroyed during the Seinan Civil War of 1877.

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The 5-storied Uto Turret however is a survivor of that siege and dates back to the period of the castle’s construction. We ascended the steps of this place and were yet again rewarded with some pretty awesome views of the main tower and the mountains in the distance of some beautiful green countryside.

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The signature of this castle is its steep curved stone walls which were designed to prevent attackers from penetrating the castle. It was constructed in 1607 and was designed by Kato Kiyomasa; a very knowledgable feudal lord who ruled the area. It seemed like my prospective father-in-law had a lot of respect and admiration for the experienced Kiyomasa as he proudly told me of how these fortifications are highly regarded for their strategic effectiveness.

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There was just enough time to sample a local dish by way of Kumamoto ramen at a local restaurant. There are of course many types of ramen all over Japan and this particular one is a variation of tonkotsu ramen with decidedly thicker noodles and a soup that was a bit more mild and lighter than its usual sort. After that it was time to move on to our next destination in Kyushu.

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Kyushu Trip 2014 Pt III: Day Trip To Gunkanjima a.k.a. Battleship Island

Ever since I saw some haikyo websites a fair few years ago giving details about this island I have wanted to go there and see it for myself. That dream finally came true in Nagasaki on the first day of this month when I treated my girlfriend to a trip to Gunkanjima a.k.a. Battleship Island as its appearance resembles the warship Tosa due to its surrounding sea walls and multi-storey concrete buildings.

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This place was brought to the mass attention of the public when it featured in the most recent 007 film ‘Skyfall‘ (2012) but as Tokyo Fox explained in this article from last year it was sadly all faked on a Continue reading

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Kyushu Trip 2014 Pt II: Old Nagasaki Prison & South Nagasaki City Area

A few months ago I came across some very interesting pictures online of the old Nagasaki Prison which really caught my attention and made me want to visit the abandoned ruins on some kind of haikyo adventure. The prison in question is a 10 minute walk away from Hon-Isahaya station and during the afternoon on our second day I left my girlfriend behind to seek out the place. From JR Nagasaki station it took about 30 minutes to get to Isahaya station where I changed to the Shimabara Railway Line to go to Hon-Isahaya which was only three minutes from there and the first stop on the line. What I failed to do beforehand was read the articles on the place properly as I didn’t realise till earlier in the day that, apart from its front gate, it was knocked down in 2007! However, I was still intrigued enough to make the effort to check out what remained.

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It was a long round trip due to having a long wait at Isahaya station on the return journey and in all honesty probably not worth it but I am glad that I did it and found out rather than not knowing! At the gate there are a couple of boards detailing a little about the history and geography of the old prison. Details of how to get there are at the bottom of this page.

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Earlier that afternoon we had gone to Megane-bashi a.k.a. spectacles bridge due to the shape made by the arches in the reflected waters. We had lunch right by the bridge at a traditional place serving up teishoku followed by a heart-shaped waffle at a nearby place which resulted in the cheesy shot seen below!

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We then took another tram to the Glover Garden area but we didn’t go in the actual gardens. I’m sure they’re absolutely wonderful, and Glover may have played a huge part in modernising Japan, but we didn’t wanna spend the time or money (600 yen entry) looking around western-style houses and gardens when there were a few of the former on the nearby Dutch Slope area. Besides, western-houses aren’t exactly exciting for a western man like me to see when he’s in Asia!

Beneath Glover Garden is Oura Catholic Cathedral which is Japan’s oldest remaining gothic-style wooden church. Nagasaki has an interesting history that goes beyond its bombing and that is its principal links to the west, particularly Portugal and Holland, with the former playing a major part in opening Japan up to Christianity (as well as firearms) which then got banned with 26 foreign priests and Japanese converts crucified in 1597. The religion continued to be practised in secret until it was made legal again at the end of the 19th century. This church (below) is dedicated to those 26 Christians. The former HSBC Nagasaki Branch Museum (below) was located at the bottom of the hill and is an interesting looking building.

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Hollander (Dutch) Slope (below) was intended to be the final part of our walking tour. Not so much of a slope but a gentle incline with a few western-style homes lining it amid a setting not too often seen in Japan. More interesting for me was the old rusty orange/brown coloured building just round the corner which used to be the British embassy.

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As it was quite close by we decided to continue on and had a quick wander through Shinchi Chinatown which was basically just one street and later on that evening we had another Nagasaki speciality; sara-udon (literally ‘plate noodles) which in this instance was chanpon noodles (as opposed to the more common thinner crispy noodles) with a topping of fried cabbage, bean sprouts, squid, prawns, pork and so on.

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How to get to old Nagasaki Prison: Exit the station and turn right following the road for a couple of minutes. You then turn right at the point where there’s a shopping arcade going the opposite way on the left. Walk up the road for about five minutes and turn right when you see a sign for MaxValu supermarket. Hidden away behind the supermarket is the Old Prison gate and nothing much else!

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Kyushu Trip 2014 Pt I: Nagasaki (Urakami Area)

When thinking of Nagasaki first thoughts sadly but inevitably turn to the atomic bomb that was dropped on the place on August 9th, 1945. The ideal place to start our Kyushu adventure then was in Urukami; the hypocentre of the explosion which was a grave reminder of the past. First things first though and some food at Nagasaki station which the area is famed for. Kakuni manjyu is basically a bun with a very fatty chunk of cooked pork inside it and was so delicious that I went back for a second one despite its price being a little steep at 360 yen a pop.

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With full stomachs we took the tram up to Matsuyama-Machi beginning at the Hypocentre Park which is the point where the atomic bomb exploded at an altitude of 500m. There are a few bomb-blasted relics, monuments, paper cranes and so on in the spacious concrete park situated alongside the Urakami River.

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Its probably quite sad that the events at the start of last years movie, ‘The Wolverine‘  (where Logan is held in a Japanese POW camp near Nagasaki and protects an officer named Yashida from the blast) heightened my interest in learning more details of the city’s destruction and loss of human life. What is perhaps more surprising is that Japan’s 15 years of military aggression prior to 1945 is actually referred to and there is even an apology on a plaque to the thousands of Korean labourers who also lost their lives.

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The Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum (below) was next and, like the one in Hiroshima (which we visited a year ago), was a chilling reminder at times of how atomic bombing can cause such devastation. Some of the relics, informative materials and photographs depicting the tragedy were fascinating viewing for me albeit a bit depressing of course.

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The Peace Park (below) is a short walk from the museum and has the Fountain of Peace (shaped like a dove’s wings) and the Peace Statue with its flat outstretched left hand symbolising eternal peace. The right hand points to the sky to represent nuclear threat.

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From there we walked on to a couple of spots which were basically just photo stops. First up was Urakami Cathedral (below) which is a replica of the original that was of course destroyed by the bomb at 11.02am on that fateful day in 1945.

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A 15 minute walk down the road is Sanno-jinja Shrine (below) which is more commonly known as one-legged torii (gate) following the loss of its other one during the blast.

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In my mind I thought doing all the aforementioned sights in one afternoon following an early flight that morning would be enough. However, as sunset was an hour later than I thought (7pm in Nagasaki) we decided to do one final sight whilst in the vicinity. We took the ropeway up to Mt Inasa observation platform for a view (below) which is considered to be one of the three best night views in the world.

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Whilst up there I thought it might be nice to enjoy the view from the restaurant with its amazing views. The prices were fairly reasonable too so we had a couple of similar Nagasaki food dishes; beef steak turkey rice (Nagasaki beef steak, pilaff, spaghetti and salad) and turkey rice (pork cutlet, pilaff , spaghetti and salad) of which the latter is pictured below.

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That wasn’t the end of the local cuisine for us though as we popped into a very local place near our hotel and had chanpon (below) which is perhaps the most famous of Nagasaki’s dishes.

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Champon is the local ramen speciality consisting of octopus, squid, kamaboko (white and pink fish-based patty), pork and vegetables in a white, salt-based broth. It only cost us 600 yen each and was the perfect way to fill up for the night and cross off another must-do item from our list.

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Review: Films Set In Japan – Godzilla (1954)

With the latest incarnation of Godzilla getting nearer it seems a fitting time to go back 60 years and take a closer look at the original Japanese movie which launched the iconic monster onto our screens. Released nine years after the U.S. dropped the atomic bomb on Hiroshima and Nagasaki the opportunity was seized to use this radioactive lizard from beneath Tokyo Bay to serve as a symbol for the horrors of nuclear holocaust.

Godzilla has come and gone in many guises but nothing can get close to beating this original black and white Toho Studios version which, as an English speaker, needs to be watched with subtitles for maximum impact of the Japanese perspective. There’s no messing about from the offset and it’s straight into the action with fear and panic hitting Japan as an “underwater volcanic eruption” happens in the sea causing some fishing boats to capsize near Odo Island.

A research team led by Dr Yamane head to this pacific island off the Izu Peninsula; a fictitious isle with the scenes actually filmed around Toba city at the entrance to Ise-Shima National Park on the Shima peninsula. On discovering huge radiation emitting reptilian footprints in the sand, rumours abound that it must be Godzilla to which a woman replies saying its just a legend. Little did she know how true her words would become as Godzilla morphed into a worldwide cultural icon.

The gigantic amphibious bipedal dinosaur lives in caverns under the sea and comes ashore to prey on humans when it can’t find fish in the sea and many young virgin girls were sacrificed to appease his hunger and keep him from coming ashore. However, hydrogen bomb tests disturbed its peace and so it looked for a safer place which happened to be Shinagawa and Ginza!!

Affected by the radiation, it managed to gain an unbelievable destructive power and strength as well as white-hot atomic breath; an archetype which followed in the form of many on-screen monsters both good and bad with perhaps the worst featuring in  Monster‘ (2008). Two Zillo Beast episodes in ‘Star Wars: The Clone Wars‘ (S02E18/19) played homage to what the Japanese call ‘Gojira‘.

Dr Yamane senses that atomic testing is behind Godzilla’s emergence and he (and he only!) thinks that it should be isolated and studied. The eye-patch wearing Dr Serizawa and his oxygen destroyer are key to sending Godzilla back to the depths of the ocean. He  is arranged to be married to Emiko, but she is in love with some naval officer and it’s this love triangle which is pivotal in the monster plot.

I think I’ve been quite critical in the past about this film but on watching it again for this feature I have actually grown much fonder of it. It’s duration is an ideal length (90 minutes) and it’s quite a dramatic film with all the monster movie elements we now take for granted; a fire-breathing creature, stormy oceans, tanks and officers, mad scientists, frantic decision making, government officials, flames, fleeing citizens running for their lives and buildings being toppled. Of course, it was just three metre high miniature set pieces that were used to replicate the capital city whilst a man wearing a heavy rubber suit stomped all over them. Having most of Godzilla’s scenes at night probably helped make it a bit more convincing. I think, given the age of the film and its budget, the effects are pretty good and the sequence where Godzilla goes on the rampage in Tokyo is still superb both technically and artistically,with a genuine sense of dread. The residents run for their life, as they do throughout, which has parallels to the real life horror and devastation in Japan by way of atomic bombings, tsunami and earthquakes.

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‘Godzilla’ rightfully deserves to be called a classic despite the ending which is perhaps one of the most blatant examples of not-quite finishing a movie and leaving it open to a sequel as Dr Yamane stands aboard a ship and says “I don’t think that was the only Godzilla. If they keep experimenting with deadly weapons….another Godzilla may appear…somewhere in the world!” The perfect way to set up the potential of another movie and what do you know but only half a year later there was another one by the name of ‘Godzilla Raids Again‘ (1955) and the series limped on for an incredible 26 more Toho-made films as well as four American productions including the forthcoming one directed by British filmmaker Gareth Edwards.

If you thought Tokyo Fox was running out of films ‘set’ in Japan to review then using the original Godzilla film (a Japanese production of course but included in this series due to its huge impact on the Western world) opens up the possibility of extending it for another few years with reviews of the never-ending dross churned out in this franchise.

Tokyo Fox Rating 7/10

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Tokyo Daytripper: Walking From Garden To Garden In Komagome

When I went to Rikugien last month that wasn’t the only place I went to in Komagome as another garden of note in the vicinity is Kyu-Furukawa. As it was a lovely Spring morning I decided to walk from garden to garden taking in a few of the sights in between and near to the two places. I arrived on the JR Yamanote line but should you arrive by Metro then exit 2 on the Namboku Line is right next to Rikugien. Armed with my copy of ‘Tokyo Adventures: Glimpses Of The City In Bygone Eras‘ by Tae Moriyama* my adventure started just after 9am at Rikugien (below) gardens and you can read all about that part in more details here.

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There wasn’t too much to view on the return journey between those gardens and the JR station apart from a tie-dyed shop and the sakura trees just outside the station.

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Just beyond the station on the other side is Somei-Yoshino-Sakura memorial park (below) which is a typical Japanese concrete area of no particular note but with the sakura on the trees it was particularly nice when I was there.

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As you continue up the road you’ll come across a small shrine on your right (in the foreground of a stamp shop) and a Family Mart convenience store (below) on your left which you may not think is too exciting but I was quite surprised to see a few seats outside which rare in a city where there really is a lack of public seating around.

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It’s a short walk up the main road from there to Shimofuri pedestrian shopping street (below) which is on your left. This street is typical of Tokyo’s shitamachi (lower town) district and has a few local food shops selling things like tempura, croquettes and hand-made tofu.

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Komagome is only one stop from Sugamo station which is nicknamed “old persons Harajuku” and it seems like there’s traces of that extending here as the street is lined with shops catering for the more mature people such as clothing shops selling the bucket hats favoured by that generation of person!

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As you wander on past a few old buildings and narrow side streets you will come to a tiny shrine on your left which is dominated by a beautiful cherry tree standing alone in the middle of an open space with a small torii gate and shrine in the vicinity.

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The sun was shining beautifully by the time I finally arrived at Kyu-Furukawa Gardens (9am – 4.30pm, 150 yen entry) which are quite unique in that they’re a mix of Western and Eastern styles sitting next to each other but not interfering with one another. The stone made western style residence looks like a medieval British manor house and stands proud on top of a plateau, with the rose and azalea gardens beneath them. The building doubles up as the Otani Art Museum, and with an advanced booking, it is possible to see the interior of the mansion.

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Beyond the azaleas is the Japanese-style garden with its focal points being Shinji-ike (pond), a 10 metre waterfall, a large stone yukimi-toro (lantern), a mountain stream and a small traditional tea-ceremony house. The best thing about this place was the low number of visitors whilst I was there which was during peak cherry blossom season remember! I didn’t know it at the time but you can buy a combination ticket which allows entry to both Kyu-Furukawa and Rikugien for 400 yen. It only saves 50 yen on the individual prices but if you know you’re going to both then you may as well buy it.

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After Kyu-Furukawa gardens there was still time for a couple of quick stops before I had to get to work. Just round the corner and tucked away amid a few quiet back alleys is the little known Muryo-ji Temple (below) which is a tranquil place full of bamboo groves, jizo statues,   Japanese racoon dogs (tanuki) as well as some flowers and a touch of cherry blossom.

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Hiratsuka-jinja Shrine (below) was the final port of call en-route to Kami-Nakazato station. It is situated on a plateau overlooking the surrounding area and is the former site of Hiratsuka Castle. Nothing much to look at in all honesty but as you can cut through this place it’d be rude not to drop in on your way to the station.

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* The book from where I got the idea for this walking tour

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World’s Busiest Train Station: Shinjuku

Information was released last year detailing the worlds busiest train stations and Japan pretty much monopolised the top 50 list with only five of them not in this country. It’s not until the number 24 position that a non-Japanese station appears by way of Paris’ Gare du Nord! Of course it’s a little uncertain how the data was calculated and how accurate it is as India’s stations are not represented in the chart despite reportedly handling millions of passengers every day.

It was no surprise really that the top spot was held by Shinjuku station and last year there was a documentary on Channel Five in the UK detailing 24 hours in the life of this station. It aired just a couple of days before we took a trip back to England last August. I tried to find it online when I returned to Japan but was unsuccessful and inevitably I forgot all about it. However, my memory was jogged slightly by having a guest to guide round Tokyo recently and when I mentioned the station being the worlds busiest one I went a step further a few days later and found it online.

You can watch it here.

This 45 minute programme offered a fascinating insight into something that I, like millions of others, probably just take for granted. Tokyo is of course a mega sized metropolis and at its heart is this station which is like no other. The narrator bombards the viewer with a barrage of incredible statistics. Three million people pass through at rush hour and a train arrives every three seconds on one of 35 platforms. At peak times there are only two minutes between trains on the same line. 4000 people get off. each train and another 4000 then get on in order to keep everything on track. 25,000 trains go through the overground and underground platforms at Shinjuku every day.

The guards only have 30 seconds to load each train and there have of course been some very famous images over the years of brute force pretty much being used to fill the carriages with the commuters squeezed in like sardines in a can. In fact, the trains have double the numbers they were designed to take and I’m so thankful that I only have to ride in such conditions a couple of times a year!

It’s 1.38am at the station as the documentary begins and its all empty and quiet but not for long!! As some expert says “Shinjuku never really closes, it just sleeps” and no sooner has the last train and all its drunken revellers left, and its time for the cleaners to work their magic and clean the place which is the size of 6o football pitches. Only a few hours later and the working day begins again and believe it or not many staff members sleep at the station and even have a special alarm clock; an automatically inflating, rising bed that lifts the sleepers head!

“Only perfection will do” is the staff philosophy and their discipline, dedication and teamwork is second to none. A few seconds late is late in Japan and one guy even says that being late is stealing time from people. Commuters seem to rely (almost too much) on the trains getting them to work exactly on time in a country where people just aren’t late for work. This means that everyone has no choice but to pile on to the trains with the aforementioned guards giving them a helping hand at times. There is supposedly no time to wait for the next train and slow boarding can cause delays which lead to a dangerous numbers of people congregating on the platforms. It’s a situation which can spiral out of control very quickly if the trains don’t run like clock work.

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If it wasn’t difficult enough just maintaining an efficient and reliable service at the best of times then think what its like when you throw into the equation the likes of earthquakes, typhoons, terrorist attacks, suicides and drunken revellers. The greatest fear is total shutdown which, despite the constant relentless pressure, rarely ever happens but of course on the 11th May 2011 that is exactly what happened and that date showed that Tokyo finds it very difficult to function without Shinjuku station.

I’ve seen this mammoth-sized station in a different light since viewing this programme and can appreciate the grand-ness of the place and its dedicated workers. The select few which featured in this documentary showed that there is hardly any time to draw breath as dozens of people pounce on these almost-robotic workers to ask questions galore as soon as they appear on the scene in the parts which are open to the public. It really is crazy and the staff need to know the station inside-out as well as the Shinjuku area which tourists and locals alike enquire about.

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