Review: Films Set In Japan – Letters From Iwo Jima (2006)

I decided to watch this again a few days ago having just taught a student who this week is going to visit the island of Iwo-jima which is actually part of Tokyo albeit a long, long way south (750 km) of the mainland. Most of the scenes weren’t actually filmed there though but on the black sand beaches of Sandvik in the south-west of Iceland. Clint Eastwood directed this film straight off the back of the less successful ‘Flags of our Fathers‘ in order to give the Japanese perspective and when I originally watched it on its release in 2006 I admittedly wasn’t expecting anything more than just being able to tell students that I had seen it. I couldn’t have been more wrong!

This Hollywood production gets full credit first and foremost for not going anywhere near the usual Japanese stereotypes portrayed in most other films. It is clearly distinguishable from all the other films set in Japan with no need to rely on any stereotypical images of Japanese society and is supposedly scripted with excellent research into Japanese society at that time. Secondly, it used nearly all Japanese actors rather than American-Japanese or other Asian actors. This doesn’t bother me so much but its something the Japanese often get worked up about in the name of authenticity. Finally, all but about five minutes of the films 141 minute length features Japanese dialogue but despite the length and need for subtitles I was captivated throughout which for someone like me, with a short attention span, is very rare.

The main characters all have interesting stories to tell which are shown via a few flashback scenes. Ken Watanabe, by far the most famous Japanese actor (if not the only one) known overseas, may be the lead role but the true star of the film is the baby faced Shingo; the baker with a pregnant wife, who is called up to fight for his country. He is a frightened, anxious man full of hope and battling against the harsh regime of the Japanese army. He wants to realise just one dream which is to get home to see his daughter.

 

The film starts off in the present day with someone discovering the letters on the island and then its back to 1944 as the film really draws you into the caves and makes you a part of the Japanese soldier’s life. We see them basically defend the island to the death which General Kuribayashi (Watanabe) says is of utmost importance. The utter hopelessness of their situation is quite a recurring thing and time and time again we hear of the soldiers dying with honour and courage in the line of duty against the American invasion and we even hear that it’s “our fate to find our place at Yasukuni Shrine.”

Overall, I was thoroughly engrossed throughout this emotionally powerful movie and I’d probably even go as far to say that it’s one of the best war films out there and Clint Eastwood deserves all the accolades that came with this picture. The ironic thing is that it is he who has made this film rather than the Japanese themselves and if you didn’t know anything about the production you’d naturally assume it was not a domestic production.

Tokyo Fox Rating 10/10

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Cycling The ‘Ten Shrines of Tokyo’ In One Day

Only a couple of weeks ago did I say the words “I’m not really a temple or shrine person” after my trip around YaNeSen where I went to Nezu Jinja Shrine. It was whilst doing my research on that place that I came across the “Ten Shrines Of Tokyo‘ which are considered the most important as they were selected in 1868 by Emperor Meiji after he had moved to Edo and renamed it Tokyo.

It’s been a while since I did a pointless and meaningless cycling challenge in and around Tokyo so the idea of riding around all ten of these in one day appealed. The main reason I decided to do this was to finally use my iPhone map to get around and find a few places which was a major reason for investing in the technology yet I had never used that function until this ride. Furthermore I wanted to use an app I have which tracks how far you ride (or run) and how many calories you burn as well as other statistical information like average pace and speed and elevation climb. I also wanted to go cycling as I have been too injured to go running recently and was feeling in need of a long cycle ride to help my fitness. I had only visited one of the places on the list and that was only a fortnight ago as I mentioned before. Some of the shrines were in parts of Tokyo I had never really been to. I was actually quite surprised that Meiji-jingu Shrine, Tokyo’s biggest and most famous one, was not included in the list.

It was a lovely sunny morning (May 25) when I left my apartment in north Tokyo just after 8am on my bicycle which has a non-existent front brake (broken) and a back brake which when squeezed tightly still takes about 100 metres to stop. The ten shrines are numbered in the order I did them as opposed to them being ranked in order by Emperor Meiji.

1) Oji Jinja Shrine (1-1-12 Oji Hon-cho, Kita-ku) – Hidden away on some back streets and located right next to a school with foxes guarding something or another.

    

2) Hakusan Shrine (5-31-26 Hakusan, Bunkyo-ku) – Fairly small and completely deserted shrine next to a construction site.

 

3) Nezu Shrine (1-28-9 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku) – Possibly the most famous of the ten but given that I blogged about this place very recently I have very little to add.

 

4) Kanda Shrine (2-16-2 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku) – Huge spacious complex with all the usual goings on as well as having a donkey there too. My camera started playing up here in terms of the 10 second timer not working and the sky was beginning to look more grey.

     

5) Kameido Tenjin Shrine (3-6-1 Kameido, Koto-ku) – Difficult to find and where I discovered that iPhone maps direct you to the actual shrine building part rather than the entrance which I cycled by and then want back and forth around some back streets looking for what was the back entrance. Have I used the word ‘back’ enough there?! This shrine is famous for its drum bridges and whilst I was there there was a drum band playing some melodic tunes. Unfortunately it was here that the rain finally broke through the clouds.

     

6) Tomioka Hachiman Shrine (1-20-3 Tomioka, Koto-ku) – Heavier rain led to me wearing the hat (to keep the water out of my eyes) which I’d brought to stop my head burning. If only!

 

7) Shiba Daimyojin Shrine (1-12-7 Shiba-Daimon, Minato-ku) – Took a while to locate and was done using the address rather than the maps function. By now my battery was starting to die. This was a very small place with some steps up to the shrine.

 

8) Shinagawa Shrine (3-7 Kita Shinagawa) – Another one which was difficult to find. The shrine is guarded by stone dragons and it had a series of red torii gates to its side. I met a man here who tried to tell me a story about the place in English but I didn’t really understand what he was really getting at.

 

9) Hikawa Shrine (6-10-12 Akasaka, Minato-ku) – More foxes on show and again hardly a soul in start no doubt due to it being a weekday afternoon and it raining.

 

10) Hie Shrine (2-10-5 Nagata-cho, Chiyoda-ku) – Thankfully this one was close to the previous one and a big place with a couple of flights of steep steps going up to the grounds. The ones I took up had some beautiful red torii gates leading you to the shrine. The complex was quite spacious not that I really cared as I was just relieved to have finished!

        

Mind you, I still had to cycle home from there which was over an hour away. Having not once looked at my phone since finding the last shrine I got home and checked out the information regarding the ride. Overall I did 7 hrs 25 cycling and covered 76.31km (47.41miles) burning off 2938 calories. If I had been to two or three of these shrines in the same day via foot and train then I would have been bored but I have to say that I enjoyed all the shrines as it was a sense of achievement and relief to find each and every one of them. You could say that I had a shrine time!

UPDATE: It seems that I went to the wrong shrine in Oji as it’s the similarly named Oji Inari-jinja Shrine (1-12-26 Kishimachi, Kita-ku) which is part of the ten shrines! They are only 600 metres apart and I have been to both. The link below contains more details about this one.

 

Click here to read ‘Tokyo Daytripper: Riding One Of Tokyo’s Last Surviving Tram Lines’

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‘Star Wars Episode IV: ‘A New Hope’ Filming Locations

Following in the footsteps of my ‘Phantom Menace‘, ‘Attack of the Clones‘ and ‘Revenge of the Sith‘ (the latter can only be seen on Tokyo Fox‘s sister site ‘Beyond The Movies‘) compilations comes the shooting locations of the original Star Wars movie which after its 1977 release was retitled ‘Episode IV: A New Hope‘. For this film, the crew went on location to Guatemala and Tunisia with pick-up shots laer done at Death Valley in California.

The first spaceship to be seen is the Rebel Blockade Runner, a.k.a. the Tantive IV, and on 3 minutes we are inside the ship with the guards awaiting the arrival of Darth Vader not that they knew he would be arriving. There was a set piece of this at the London Film Museum on Southbank next to the London Eye and it cost £7 per photo (two for £10) on top of the entrance fee. Richard Richard and I had no qualms about spending that money on the photos below.

      

C3P0 is seen in the Tunisian desert Continue reading

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Exploring The Area Of YaNeSen In Eastern Tokyo

Tokyo may be a city where newer and higher buildings are erected willy nilly but there is an ‘oasis of Edo calm’ to be found within the cool hills of Yanesen. This is the abbreviated name given to the neighbourhoods of Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi which is located within the Yamanote circle.

It’s an area I read about in a local listings magazine about five years ago but have never really bothered to muster the enthusiasm for strolling around until a couple of weekends ago. Fortunately I had kept that article and its map and with it being a nice, sunny day I met up with a friend at Nippori station to spend a few hours meandering the narrow streets, food stalls, restaurants, cafes, workshops, craft shops, shrines and temples.

* Yanaka Ginza is the name of the busy street which is packed with traditional retail shops selling all sorts of cheap delicious Japanese snacks.

             

* Tenouji temple is round the corner from Nippori station and features a large copper Buddha (below) originally built in 1690.

 

* Nenotsu (above) is a traditional restaurant serving up udon noodles which is usually very popular with customers patiently lining up outside as Japanese tend to do.

* Nezu jinja shrine was built in 1705 and is one of Tokyo’s oldest structures. Whilst temples and shrines really aren’t my thing I can appreciate the odd one here and there and this one is full of foxes which are of course of interest to Leicester City fans and people running websites with fox in the title!

                

As I’ve mentioned in a couple of articles in the past these stone foxes are traditionally viewed by Japanese people as being sacred and mysterious figures which supposedly protect the place in some way or another.

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Manic Street Preachers Live In Tokyo 2012

One of my favourite bands played at Shin Kiba in Tokyo tonight (May 18) and I was there to see them at what was the same place they played at in November 2010. This time they were in town to play their 38 singles (as well as a few others) over two nights at Studio Coast. You could get a ticket for both nights for a special price of 12,500 yen but due to work commitments I could only go to the second night.

I guess this was all promotion for their latest album ‘National Treasures – The Complete Singles‘ which in a way seems fairly pointless given that it was released back in October of last year! Still, I’m certainly not one to complain and was glad to see them live for the 4th or 5th time.

 

Like last time, I went with my school manager Shinobu and was delighted to Continue reading

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James Bond Filming Locations In Hong Kong

The Man With the Golden Gun‘ (1974) doesn’t follow the original novel too closely as that was set in Jamaica whereas the film is located in the Far East. It is a fairly entertaining story for a number of reasons; a great villain in the form of  Scaramanga; a classic henchman in the shape of psycho dwarf Nick Nack; a beautiful Bond girl and of course the exotic locations of Thailand, Macau and Hong Kong.

The Hong Kong-Macau Ferry Terminal (below) is seen on 26 minutes but in the present day it’s all very different apart from the location. The terminal is now part of the Shun Tak Centre shopping mall.

 

Bond tries to get in a taxi just over the road from there with the Continue reading

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Hong Kong Filming Locations: Infernal Affairs (2002)

Like the majority of people in the western world I’d never heard of ‘Infernal Affairs‘ (2002) until ‘The Departed‘ (2006) came along. I even mistakenly rented out ‘Internal Affairs‘ (1990) starring Richard Gere before I got my hands on a copy of this Hong Kong movie featuring Andy Lau (Lau Kin-ming) and Tony Leung (Chan Wing-yan). Of course the cool thing to say is that the original’s the best but I’ve been never cool and as much as I love both versions I probably just about prefer the Hollywood re-make.

  

So ‘Infernal Affairs‘ starts off straight away at Ten Thousand Buddha’s Monastery (above) in Sha Tin on the KCR Railway Line on minute one. It may be only about 5-10 minutes away from the station but there are Continue reading

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Hong Kong Filming Locations: Lara Croft Tomb Raider – The Cradle of Life (2003)

Hong Kong has appeared in quite a few films over the years but one that is often forgotten about is the 2003 sequel ‘Lara Croft Tomb Raider: The Cradle of Life‘. This much maligned follow up to the 2001 original was shot in various locations around Hong Kong Island and Kowloon with heavy use of CGI in places.

Hennessey Road (below) is seen briefly on 37 mins with its many double decker buses and trams going up and down it. Thats the first time Hong Kong is seen in this movie and its not until the 56 minute mark that it appears again as we see sunset over Hong Kong Island. HK Convention & Exhibition Centre can just about be made out in that picture and that is what is in my photo beneath it.

    

Times Square in Causeway Bay is shown on 57 mins and 61 mins with Lara Croft (Angelina Jolie) and Terry Sheridan (Gerard Butler) as well as one of the bad guys standing in the foreground of the clock in the respective screenshots below.

     

We go inside the shopping centre next and see that CGI has been used to make it look like there is a glass ceiling where you can see another skyscraper glistening in the sun through it. In reality the mall does not have a window of some sort on the roof. We briefly see Lara and Terry looking down to the ground floor from up high in the centre.

      

On 68 minutes the 415 metre high International Finance Centre Two (IFC2) Tower appears during its construction with Lara and Terry leaping off it and landing on a ship in Kowloon Bay. Although Angelina Jolie likes to do a lot of her stunts she didn’t do this one with the actual creators of sky-flying doing the jump a total of 8 times from that building and a further 20 from helicopters which was all edited together to make it look like one jump. No camera trickery was used at all for this stunt. IFC2 made a much bigger splash on the big screen five years later when the finished article could be seen in all its glory in ‘The Dark Knight‘ (2008) with Batman flying off it on 34 mins and landing on the IFC1 tower.

     

The view from Lara’s window on her boat (below) is seen on 70 minutes.

 

Aberdeen Harbour (below) is shown four minutes later. As I was only in Hong Kong for two full days something inevitably had to give and that was Aberdeen which is in the south-west of Hong Kong island. Maybe next time!

 

The ‘Avenue of the Stars’ is totally made up of Asian actors, actresses and directors etc but the area does feature big pictures of some international filmstars such as the one of Angelina Jolie above.

Click here to see my London & Angkor Wat ‘Lara Croft Tomb Raider‘ filming locations

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Back To Hong Kong After 6 Years

Of the many Asian places I’ve visited over the last six years one of my favourites has to be Hong Kong which I visited during the World Cup in June 2006. Back then I slummed it at the infamous Chungking Mansions on Kowloon whereas this time we stayed in Wan Chai on Hong Kong Island itself in much nicer accommodation which came as part of my air tickets and hotel package. No trip to Hong Kong is complete without taking a tram ride on up to The Peak, even for a guy like me who is usually on movie-themed missions only!

     

There was some pretty impressive architecture on Hong Kong Island such as Jardine House (below).

 

I don’t know the name of the building above but the Lippo Centre is below.

 

The HSBC Building is above. We went to Hong Kong Park which was ok but nothing special. Below are a couple more random photos including a British-style (albeit a green one) post box and the Forrest Gump bench (below) outside the Bubba Gump restaurant at The Peak.

      

Early evening saw me take the Star Ferry to Temple Street Night Market (above). Chungking Mansions seems to have cleaned itself up a bit compared to my original trip and was even lit up at night (below).

   

Apart from a couple of ever-so-short showers we felt very lucky to have got away with it regarding the weather given the thundery showers which had been forecast for the whole of my trip. We rounded off things by strolling along the ‘Avenue of the Stars’ which is similar to that of the Hollywood ‘Walk of Fame’ with handprints of famous people from the showbiz world of films. Ethan and I didn’t even bother going to the American one last August on our road-trip but I did wanna see the Asian stars on the Hong Kong version. These included Bruce Lee, Jackie Chan and John Woo among many others.

            

After that we took the Star Ferry back to my Wan Chai base amid the beautiful harbour views which I never really get tired of seeing.

 

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Tokyo Daytripper: Fujishibazakura Matsuri

As I had a very rare Saturday off last weekend my girlfriend and I took a long trip to Kawaguchiko station in the foreground of Mount Fuji where a special local bus took another 40 minutes to the viewing area of Fujishibzakura. It was a beautiful sunny day and though the flowers were only half in bloom it was my amazing to see such a spectacular picture postcard-type view of Japan’s icon looming in the background of the pink carpet of flowers.

             

This stunning landscape made the long journey worth it and to be fair just seeing either the Shiba zakura flowering or Mount Fuji on its own would have been very satisfying but being able to view the natural pink carpet on the skirt of Mount Fuji was a view like no other.

     

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