I Got Married Today!

A stag night of debauchery followed by a lovely Summer’s day, church bells ringing, the brides beautiful long white dress, lots of family and friends present, confetti thrown everywhere, some witty and entertaining speeches, a highly decorated wedding cake, free-flowing champagne,  a fantastic evening reception and the anticipation of a glorious honeymoon in an exotic country!!  Well, sadly NONE of those traditions applied to us today as we finally got married in the glamorous setting of Shinjuku City Hall!!

IMG_4888  IMG_4889

Having proposed in Yangon (Rangoon) in Myanmar (Burma) on Christmas Day last year I wasn’t in too much of a rush to decide a date which is of course what most people have wanted to know ever since the announcement was made public! I just wanted to enjoy the engagement for a while but with people often asking if we had a date we were tired of saying that nothing had been decided yet. Eventually things just fell into place as we knew we wanted to ideally be married by the time of our trip back to the UK later this Summer. In the end July 7th was chosen as I had that day (also not a public holiday) off as a holiday and Rina could easily switch her Wednesday off for the Monday in question.

P1030700  P1030699  IMG_4141  P1030578

I put the wheels in motion last month as the process of getting hitched isn’t so easy. In order to get married in Japan I had to send a form to and make an appointment with the British Embassy which then involved swearing on the bible that I was not married already or something to that effect. Having managed to resist swearing my head off and turning the air blue I then had to cough up £65 (11,300 yen) for them to stick a piece of paper on a wall in the office stating our wish to get married. If no-one objected to this over the space of a week or so then it was ok to go ahead and get married once I’d revisited and paid another £65 for “administration costs.”

April 2011 108  April 2011 111

Of course no-one saw fit for us to not get married and even if they did the chances of them seeing this piece of paper on the wall of an office within the confined and secure area of the embassy was always going to be very small!

When it was mentioned to some people back in England that we’d be getting married this month, I think they had visions of some kind of registry office event but unbelievably it was even less glamorous than that for all we had to do was simply just fill in and sign a sheet of paper which was then handed in alongside some other documents. Mind you, this is Japan so when it comes to administration nothing is ever straightforward! Approximately 40 minutes of waiting then followed whilst the clerk did something or another and then our number was called and that was it! The knot had well and truly been tied!

Furthermore, the 7th of July in Japan is known as Tanabata (star festival) which celebrates the romantic meeting of the deities Orihime and Hikoboshi. According to legend, the Milky Way separates these lovers, and they are only allowed to meet once a year on the seventh day of the seventh lunar month albeit only for a brief moment. With all this in mind and the fact that we had the day off it was the ideal, memorable date to finally get married.

IMG_4878  IMG_4876

* Afterwards we went to mark the occasion at the New York Bar & Grill in the Park Hyatt Hotel in Nishi-Shinjuku which you can read about here. 
Posted in Family, Food & Drink, Japan Filming Locations | Tagged , , , , , , | 16 Comments

The Charlotte Crosby Experience – The Furisode-San Of Tokyo

Now, I’ve got no real idea who Charlotte is. Sure, I know she’s from an MTV programme called ‘Geordie Shore‘ and that she was on ‘Celebrity Big Brother‘ but I have never seen her on those programmes and only really knew about her and this programme because she appeared on ‘Innuendo Bingo‘ on Scott Mills’ BBC Radio One afternoon show a few months ago.

Following her appearance on that show I tried to find this episode online but all to no avail. Probably because it was on some channel called TLC that no-one’s ever heard of! Anyway, I eventually found out that it was on iTunes so decided to begrudgingly fork out £2.50 for the episode.

Screen Shot 2014-07-01 at 11.17.15 Screen Shot 2014-07-01 at 11.21.33

As one with no knowledge about Charlotte, I went into this programme without any prejudice or preconceptions. The introduction part to the show (which I assume is shown every episode) has her parents telling the viewers that she’s loud, outrageous and a bit stupid. The latter statement becomes apparent straightaway with her terrible geographical knowledge. “Will I see the Great Wall of China?” is one such bout of her wisdom and thinking that Korea is the capital of Japan is another. She also thinks she’s in Thailand at one stage although she does self correct on that one soon after.

Foreigners are often amazed by the Japanese shower toilets and Charlotte is no exception as we hear her shrieking through the (closed) door of the hotel toilet in disbelief at this advance in technology. It was very similar to when Kelly Osbourne was in town for her ‘Turning Japanese‘ show on ITV2 back in 2007.

Screen Shot 2014-07-01 at 22.55.40 Screen Shot 2014-07-01 at 22.55.56

‘The Charlotte Crosby Experience‘ series feature’s the reality TV personality (not my words!) spending time in different extreme cultures and living with some of the world’s unique communities. Her first proper experience in Tokyo is a cosplay party which she anticipates as being some kind of show with alcohol and dancing! She refuses to wear the sailor moon schoolgirls outfit as she has seen it in a porno movie! She is again shocked on arrival at the party as all the girls (for its mainly a female hobby) are dressed as boys and taking pictures of themselves as Japanese tend to do. Anyway, this goes down with her better than the more-serious parts of Japanese culture which follow.

Furisode has its name in the episode title and Charlotte meets two young girls who wear this style of kimono whilst they entertain customers, perform dance and have conversation at Japanese parties with salarymen. The programme wasn’t so clear about this part but these girls are similar in some ways to apprentice geisha but of course there are some big differences between the two.

Charlotte seems overly keen to be friends with the furisode-san but it’s all on her terms as she seemingly wants to teach them north-east England culture rather than understand and appreciate theirs. By the end of the programme she realises what a dedicated profession it is and how hard their work is. At the start though she has very little respect or patience for anything she’s taught whether it be learning a few simple Japanese phrases or learn how to walk properly in order to be elegant when all she really wants to do is have her face painted and do a strange walk on her knees whilst her legs are crossed!

One of the girls is amazed by Charlotte and talks of her rough hair, long nails (which could potentially damage the valuable materials), no concentration, poor listening and endless cursing. I guess having seen the passion and enthusiasm on previous UK TV shows in Japan this year from Hairy Bikers and Tom Daley it’s quite a step back to hear this loud-mouthed English girl look so unhappy and bored at times. Of course this is all in the edit I guess but it’s definitely a case of there being too many rules for her which I can sympathise with a bit more as this can be a frustration at times.

Screen Shot 2014-07-01 at 11.18.08 Screen Shot 2014-07-01 at 22.57.13

Later on she’s at Senso-ji temple with the girls getting her fortune paper and complains at first that it’s all in Japanese (the English is actually on the back) and then that its bad news! I thought she was wrong and disrespectful to then screw up the paper and start nosing through all the other drawers to find a better fortune but the girls didn’t seem to mind and began to show a hint of what they’re really like beyond the formalities of their job. This is further exemplified when they are introduced to the “I have never…” drinking game on the back of one of the traditional geisha/maiko/geiko/furisode games which goes down well although it did make me feel a little uncomfortable! I’m sure I’ve done worse in my time though!!

In amongst all that she goes to a zen temple to learn some much needed concentration and calmness. I guess it’s no surprise that she’s never heard of zen though she suspects it will be boring and given that most UK TV viewers just wanna see the whacky and weird side when it comes to Japan she’s probably right in some ways.

Judging by the McDonalds drink and discarded brown bag in the background whilst she (loudly) skypes her family (where she finishes with the line “peace out bitches!”) she didn’t exactly lap up the Japanese culture in the ryokan which is a “no-compromise” Japanese-style inn where Charlotte spends the night. Though she finds the futon comfortable she’s missing the good old-fashioned English cereal at breakfast time. She was even warned by the owner on her arrival to do as Tokyo people do when in the capital city. Oh yeah and one of the rules is no porn though I don’t know why he feels the need to tell a female about this….or is there a part of her background or reputation I don’t know about?!

Screen Shot 2014-07-01 at 11.22.14 Screen Shot 2014-07-01 at 11.22.57

We’re back on track with the zany stuff at a cuddle cafe where the tables are turned on her as she finds out its her who has to do the cuddling. Her reaction to one of the customers is the kind of thing the producers of the show love to see happen. She’s pretty grossed out by the idea of cuddling a stranger but trying to relay this message to the guy just shows how communication is difficult in Japan for many foreigners.

Throughout the programme the footage is all interspersed with Charlotte talking to the camera and offering her valuable insight into the experiences as they happen. She’s taken aback by the language barrier quite often and is often unable to communicate in a way which the Japanese, with limited English ability and knowledge, understand. Can you really expect them to know who the likes of Cheryl Cole, Alan Shearer and Ant & Dec are!!

Screen Shot 2014-07-01 at 22.56.22 Screen Shot 2014-07-01 at 22.54.41

The stupid hashtags (#CharlotteTLC etc), captions and her tweets (whilst in Japan) appear on screen throughout which I guess are a sign of the times and how TV is becoming so dumbed down. It won’t be long before the UK catches up with the Japanese variety shows where the screen is so cluttered with this kind of cr*p!!

The conclusion of the 44 minute programme is far more optimistic than most of what preceded it as she talks of having had the most amazing time and waxes lyrical about there being nowhere like Japan with its unique cafes (a cat cafe also features) and that being there has inspired her to search English traditions. As this was the second show in a series of which I only saw this particular episode I can’t judge Charlotte too strongly as her attitude may have changed throughout but for now it seems to me that Karl Pilkington is more like Einstein when compared to this idiot abroad.

Posted in TV Shows | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

TF Flashback: Kamikochi & Matsumoto (2005)

My first trip into Nagano was not actually for one of my many snowboarding expeditions in Hakuba but to the remote mountainous highlands of Kamikōchi (translates basically as Upper Highlands) on the western side of the prefecture. The reason for the outing was to see the Autumn leaves in their perfectly formed red and yellow glory back on the 28th and 29th October in 2005.

Kamikōchi is 169 miles from Tokyo and located in the Hida mountains in the northern part of the Japan Alps. To get there meant leaving Shinjuku at 8am via the Azusa Ltd Express (approx. 6000 yen) to Matsumoto which took three hours. My girlfriend-of-the-time (this was nine years ago remember!) then changed to the Dentetsu line (680 yen) which took us on to Shin Shinashima station where a bus then completed the journey and  we finally disembarked at around 2pm!

Screen Shot 2014-06-28 at 23.35.52  Screen Shot 2014-06-28 at 23.36.22

A long morning but it was worth it as it was a beautiful, sunny day for walking amid the breathtaking views of the mountains for 2.5 hours to Kappabashi bridge, Myojin bridge, and its pond.

Screen Shot 2014-06-28 at 23.36.34  Screen Shot 2014-06-28 at 23.36.46

I’d pretty much forgotten about visiting Kamikōchi until a couple of weeks ago when I  stumbled upon my old Microsoft OneDrive photos from the past. As Tokyo Fox wasn’t born until February 2006 it was quite nice to be reminded of certain Japanese experiences from yesteryear which I thought had all been lost after this site switched from MSN Spaces to WordPress in September 2010.

Screen Shot 2014-06-28 at 23.37.09  Screen Shot 2014-06-28 at 23.37.26

The central Kamikōchi Valley is relatively flat and possesses a number of marshes and ponds including Myojin Pond. It’s the Azusa River which flows through Kamikōchi and its water consists mainly of melted snow runoff so the water was really cold when I put my hand in to check the temperature.

We left Kamikochi at 4.40pm and got dropped off near some waterfall where we then had to wait 50 minutes for a bus to drive us to our nights accommodation which was a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) in the middle of nowhere! With not much to do in such a place after dinner we actually ended up playing cards, shōgi (Japanese chess) and having an indoor and outdoor onsen.

Screen Shot 2014-06-28 at 23.37.41  Screen Shot 2014-06-28 at 23.38.16

The following afternoon we left for Matsumoto city where it was raining. Before continuing on back to Tokyo we had a quick stop in the city to see Matsumoto-jo castle which is one of Japan’s most historic castles and nicknamed ‘crow castle’ due to its black exterior. It was a very impressive sight for me due to its closeness to the surrounding moat as it’s a castle built on plains rather than on a hill or mountain.

Screen Shot 2014-06-28 at 23.38.05  Screen Shot 2014-06-28 at 23.37.55

Admission to the castle is 650 yen and it’s usually open from 8:30pm till 5pm. It’s a 15 minute walk from JR Matsumoto station and the view (above) can be seen along the way.

Posted in Japan Travel, Tokyo Daytripper: | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 6 Comments

On Screen #4 – Brazil

With Brazil hosting this years FIFA World Cup and the 2016 Olympic games there is a lot of focus on the nation which has given the world samba, coffee, caipirinha, Copacabana, the Amazon and some of the worlds greatest ever football players. It is perhaps surprising though that very few international productions have taken place in this South American country. This series focuses on how countries are portrayed On Screen in film and TV whether it be real or faked somewhere cheaper and easier.

We start then with TV for once and a double dose of everyone’s favourite dysfunctional cartoon family, ‘The Simpsons‘. They have now visited Rio de Janeiro twice with the most recent season (S25E16) featuring an episode called ‘You Don’t Have To Live Like A Referee‘ (a play on words from a 1980 Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers song which has the line  “Don’t have to live like a refugee”) whereby Homer is called up to referee games in the World Cup finals where he finds himself caught in a dilemna whether to accept bribes for fixing games or to remain honest as he doesn’t want to let Lisa down after she chose him as her hero.

Unknown  simpsons-you-dont-have-to-live-like-a-referee-1

Back in season 13 (S13E15) far more of a stir was caused when the family went to Rio in search of an orphan named Ronaldo whom Lisa had been sponsoring. ‘Blame It On Lisa‘ was criticized in Brazil because of its inclusion of clichés and stereotypes, and because the Brazilian culture was inaccurately mixed with the cultures of surrounding Latin American countries. There was even talk of the local tourist board suing the Fox Network for damaging the image of the city which they thought was incorrectly portrayed as having rampant street crime, kidnappings, slums and a rat infestation.

Screen Shot 2014-06-26 at 23.51.02  Screen Shot 2014-06-26 at 23.54.25  Screen Shot 2014-06-27 at 00.01.30  Screen Shot 2014-06-26 at 23.59.49

A scene with Homer’s kidnappers exchanging him for a case of money mirrors a scene in ‘Moonraker‘ (1979) as far as on screen interactions on cable cars going up Sugar Loaf mountain go! In that 007 film Bond confronted antagonist Jaws. The atmosphere shots of the Rio Carnival were filmed a year before the film itself was shot but the ‘Brazilian’ training camp was actually filmed in at a monastery at San Nicolo on Lido in Venice, Italy! The ‘Amazon’ boat chase actually started in Florida but culminated at Iguacu Falls on the border of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay. 

Screen Shot 2014-06-25 at 21.41.06  Screen Shot 2014-06-25 at 21.41.39  Screen Shot 2014-06-25 at 21.34.31  Screen Shot 2014-06-25 at 21.33.23

‘The Bend In The River’ was a 1984 double-episode of ‘The A-Team‘ (S03E03) on NBC which features more Amazon action as the team supports journalist and ally Tawnia Baker find an archaeologist (secretly her fiancé) that’s gone missing during an expedition on the river. The guys deal with local pirates and come across a plot that is far greater than any of them could’ve expected. In the end Baker weds her fiancé in what happened to be her final episode as the production team finally dispensed with the idea of needing a female character. I don’t know for sure where this was filmed but likelihood is that it wasn’t too far from the Universal Studios backlot in Los Angeles where almost every single one of its 98 episodes were shot!

Screen Shot 2014-06-26 at 15.10.06  Screen Shot 2014-06-26 at 15.17.54

One production that actually did take place in the Amazon was ‘Anaconda‘ (1997) which was principally shot in the jungle around Manaus although as the giant snake picks off members of a jungle expedition the lush foliage seems to give way to the palm trees of California.

images  screenshot-med-05

Based on a true story, ‘The Emerald Forest‘ (1985) was set and mostly filmed in Brazil with Belém, Tucuruí and Carajás in Pará state in the north used alongside the far less glamorous Lincolnshire (UK)!

ef13  ef1

Returning to TV shows and witty, sarcastic and profanity-using American chef/TV personality Anthony Bourdain is no stranger to Brazil. Just ahead of the World Cup ‘Parts Unknown‘ (S03E08) on CNN saw him visit Bahia a.k.a. the African heart of Brazil. It’s famed for its Afro-Brazilian music, art, design and food. On his previous shows ‘A Cook’s Tour‘ (S02E04), ‘No Reservations‘ (S03E15 & S09E07) and ‘The Layover‘ (S02E04) he visited Sao Paulo and Rio a couple of times each.

He once considered the former to be an ugly city but has changed his mind over time thanks to his ‘Paolista’  friends who showed him that the city is a vibrant mix of rich, poor, young and old. Rio is described as the perfect city that is almost impossible to not love. Tony just wishes he could enjoy the Brazilian paradise more but is nervous about his wife’s upcoming Jiu Jitsu fight in the country which gave birth to this martial art.

Screen Shot 2014-06-25 at 22.50.01  Screen Shot 2014-06-25 at 21.20.34

As for UK TV, Karl Pilkington was sent by comics Ricky Gervais and Stephen Merchant to see the seven wonders of the world in ‘An Idiot Abroad‘ (S01E06) which included the Christ Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro. Of course things were never gonna be that simple as he also has to take part in the Carnival parade (too noisy, crowded, and stressful), go to a nudist beach, go to a gay beach, stay at a hostel, stay with a female impersonator and then he finally gets to see fulfil his main goal of the trip; to see the statue which he just describes as being like a big ornament!

Screen Shot 2014-06-25 at 20.25.14  Screen Shot 2014-06-25 at 20.26.14

More British comedy next and it’s ‘Mike Bassett: England Manager‘ (2001) which sees a second tier football league manager gain the big job after its previous occupant had a heart attack. He’s inept but flukily manages to get England into the World Cup which is in Brazil. (You can see it here.) We see a montage of clichéd Brazilian images and then its scenes at the Airport, the team hotel, on the team bus, training ground, changing room, press conference and on the sidelines. It won’t surprise you to know that none of the actors went anywhere near Brazil during filming as it was all done in the UK.

Screen Shot 2014-06-25 at 17.52.14  Screen Shot 2014-06-25 at 17.54.20

2011’s ‘Fast Five‘ (a.k.a. ‘Fast & Furious 5‘) was a bit of a guilty pleasure for me and following on from four fairly average films in the series it really made people look up and take notice of the franchise. Thanks to aerial shots and quick editing many viewers were deceived into thinking it was the real Rio but it was actually filmed in Puerto Rico as their government offered some very beneficial tax incentives to influence the decision to film there. Similar to ‘The Simpsons‘ episode, the locals were unimpressed with the Rio stereotypes that included heavily armed drug traffickers, corrupt police, laughable accents and sexy women.

Screen Shot 2014-06-25 at 21.55.49  Screen Shot 2014-06-25 at 21.59.36

Before that, one of the last movies to be set in Brazil (kind of!) was the long awaited fourth Indiana Jones movie. ‘Indiana Jones & The Kingdom Of The Crystal Skull‘ (2008) was filmed 19 years after the last of the original trilogy and though often maligned I thought it was ok although the waterfall stunts did require an extension of belief. Another faked Amazon jungle for this one, with lush rainforests on private land on the Big Island of Hawaii filling in. A second unit was sent to film shots of Iguazu Falls which were then digitally combined with shots at the Universal backlot.

Screen Shot 2014-06-26 at 11.24.03  Screen Shot 2014-06-26 at 11.24.45  Screen Shot 2014-06-26 at 11.25.21  Screen Shot 2014-06-26 at 11.25.43  Screen Shot 2014-06-26 at 11.26.55  Screen Shot 2014-06-26 at 11.27.30

There’s something very exotic about seeing films or television shows set in Brazil and yes I did say exotic but maybe one letter can be changed in that word to tell us what kind of film ‘Emmanuelle In Rio‘ (2003) is!! Other movies to feature the huge South American country include ‘Fitzcarraldo‘ (1982), ‘Bossa Nova‘ (2000) and ‘The Incredible Hulk‘ (2008).

Screen Shot 2016-07-17 at 22.27.13  Screen Shot 2016-07-17 at 22.29.41

You can see previous On Screen articles by clicking on the links below:

On Screen #1 – Vietnam (Click here)

On Screen #2 – Istanbul (Click here)

On Screen #3 – Myanmar (Burma) (Click here)

Posted in Films, James Bond, Movie Locations, TV Shows | Tagged , , , , , , | 7 Comments

TF Recipes #4 – Wasabi On Toast

Following on from such legendary Tokyo Fox dishes as Natto on toast, Sashimi on toast and Miso on toast it’s time to up the ante a bit and so, in association with the mysterious Neil’s Meals blog, we bring you wasabi-on-toast….as well as a few other bonus wasabi-on-toast creations!e.

Thinking it might be too much for one person to handle, I invited Neil (a.k.a. Batman from last Halloween’s events) over to the Tokyo Fox Global Operations Centre to share the pain not that it was quite on the scale of things done in shows like ‘Jackass‘ or ‘Dirty Sanchez‘!!

Unlike Jean Reno in the 2001 movie ‘Wasabi‘ it really is not possible to just eat the root of this green-coloured Japanese plant without your eyes watering and your nasal passages burning. A daily dose of 5g of this notoriously spicy condiment supposedly provides anti-ageing effects. However, throughout this session we polished off the whole 43g tube between us! Of course grated wasabi would be more veritable but that’s way more expensive so we settled for the cheapest ingredients we could find!

With a backing track featuring our mutual friend’s band ‘The Mootekkis‘ we got down to work and here are the four basic steps to follow to make this authentic (?) Japanese dish……

Step One: Assemble your ingredients and put one or two slices of bread into the toaster for 2-3 mins.

IMG_4695  IMG_4696

Step Two: Use a knife to spread butter on the toast (if desired) followed by a light spreading of wasabi. Be aware that just the slightest blob of it offers quite a kick if eaten all at once. Phallic shaped designs are optional!!

IMG_4698  IMG_4699

Step Three: Put the wasabi-on-toast back into the toaster for 1-2 minutes extra.

IMG_4700  IMG_4701

Step Four: Put the wasabi-on-toast in your mouth, eat it and wait for the inevitable punch to hit you!

IMG_4703  IMG_4716

Bonus: That was just the starting point as we began to let our combined creative juices flow as melted cheese and wasabi on toast followed next and the two actually seem to compliment each other quite well….though you may not think that by the look on my face at times!!

IMG_4735  IMG_4739  IMG_4760  IMG_4765

After that, it was chocolate and wasabi on toast which brought about an end to my 33 day abstinence from chocolate (bread too actually!) but you’ve gotta live your life a bit and put personal stuff like that to the side in aid of such culinary experiments! The wasabi could barely be tasted due to the excessive amount of melted chocolate covering it!

IMG_4776  IMG_4781  IMG_4787  IMG_4791

As we’d bought an 8 slice packet of bread we decided we may as well finish it off and probably took things a bit too far with a baked Kit-Kat and wasabi on toast with Neil being a real man and suffering for the arts as he ate the creation without spreading the wasabi around as is the sensible option!

IMG_4800  IMG_4801

But what did they all taste like I hear you ask. Only one way to find out!!

You can see previous ‘……on toast’ creations by clicking on the links below:

TF Recipes #1 – Miso on toast (Click here)

TF Recipes #2 – Sashimi on toast (Click here)

TF Recipes #3 – Natto on toast (Click here)

Posted in Food & Drink | Tagged , , , , , , , | 6 Comments

Tokyo Daytripper: Top 10 Chiba Sights

It’s quite easy to knock Chiba but I will always have a strong affection for the place as its where my Japan adventure began all those years ago in a small apartment in Matsudo-shi. As transport links to Tokyo are good, the northern end of Chiba in particular is basically just an extension of the capital cities grey looking residential area whilst the southern end is a bit more countryside.

Here then, in no particular order, are the Tokyo Fox top ten things to do in Chiba featuring a mix of famous sights and some hidden gems too.

1. Nokogiri-yama – This place featured in a ‘Top Gear‘ special and offers a great break from the concrete jungle with its fine mountain views of the surrounding green hills as well as Japan’s largest Buddha statue below. More details here.

Nokogiriyama 046

2. Onjuku beach – Beautiful 2km long white sandy beach (below) amid Continue reading →

Posted in Tokyo Daytripper: | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 40 Comments

Tokyo Daytripper: Riding One of Tokyo’s Last Surviving Tram Lines Pt II

If you thought it was all a bit kid-orientated in part one of this trip then fear not as the Tokyo Fox journey along the Toden Arakawa line continues on to the other end of the spectrum. Shin-Koshinzuka is a 15 minute walk from Sugamo station on the Yamanote line and is full of old fashioned shops along Sugamojizo-Dori Avenue aimed at the older generation.

P1040925  P1040926  P1040931  P1040932

The street is lined with some very traditional restaurants and food shops as well as clothing stores and so on. Faito Gyoza has been around for many decades and was a very popular place selling a different style of gyoza to what is usually served up elsewhere in the city. Stopping here was a most welcome addition to a journey that was starting to tire us out a bit.

IMG_4599  IMG_4595  IMG_4597  P1040933  P1040934  P1040935

About halfway down the shopping street is Koganji Temple; home to the Togenuki Jizo statue, which is often incredibly popular with queues of people waiting to wash the statue in hope of relief of their ailments. They use small hand towels which they then place on their own body in hope of relief.

P1040936  P1040937

For my girlfriend it was a trip back down memory lane as she used to live just off the street and it was certainly interesting for her to see how the area had changed and more importantly how it had not!

IMG_4600  P1040941  P1040939  P1040942

Back on the Arakawa line and Otsuka-Ekimae was the next destination for another opportunity to see the streetcars blend in with the Yamanote line going above-head. Otsuka is often a welcome respite from the never-ending activity that Tokyo is so well known for yet this time it feels like it’s the biggest stop along a line which tends to crawl through so many quiet residential area’s.

P1040967  P1040969  P1040970  P1040971  P1040973  P1040974

Kishibojinmae is an area that I am quite familiar with having lived there in the past and that was the next stop. I used to live right next to Kishimojin temple which was the first stop. Since the Edo-period it has been a place of worship for the health and prosperity of children thanks to the supposed power of one of its gingko trees.

P1040944  P1040947  P1040948  P1040953

One stop back is Toden-Zoshigaya which meant a bit of a retreat was in order. Zoshigaya Cemetery and the Zoshigaya Missionary Museum are both nearby although the latter is a bit more difficult to locate on the quite backstreets of the area.

P1040957  P1040960  P1040964  P1040993

From there on its onwards to the final port of call both on foot and via the streetcar itself.  By this stage I feel no shame in whipping my camera out to snap away at the trams like a true trainspotter!

P1040975  P1040976  P1040977  P1040979

Waseda brings about the end to the line and a brief trip to the University is taken. Whilst most British students do nothing more than throw on some jeans and an old t-shirt (as its not really allowed for one to go in their pyjamas!) it’s a different story over here where, for the girls especially, appearances are everything and everyday is a catwalk! God knows how long some of them spend in front of the mirror each morning before heading off to classes each day!

P1040980  P1040982  P1040986  P1040989

Posted in Japan Life, Japan Travel, Tokyo Daytripper: | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Tokyo Daytripper: Riding One of Tokyo’s Last Surviving Tram Lines Pt I

Recent trips around Japan to the likes of Hiroshima in March and Nagasaki in April have given me the opportunity to ride around on their excellent trams and I guess I must have been feeling nostalgic for these street cars last month when I dragged my girlfriend along for a day riding one of only two tram lines in Tokyo!

There are 30 stations dotted along the Toden Arakawa Line which runs for a total distance of 7.6 miles (56 minutes) between Waseda and Minowabashi. For the record, the other one is the privately owned Tōkyū Setagaya Line in western Tokyo. The Arakawa line’s been in operation since 1974 and is the last survivor of the once dominant Toden street car system (about 20 lines at one time) but for how much longer will this one continue? Difficult to tell really as its certainly not losing passengers based on what we saw on this day trip. I guess it survives because of nostalgia, public pressure and the limited effect it has on some of Tokyo’s ordinary streets.

In the appendix of the latest John Rain thriller ‘Graveyard Of Memories‘, which is set in 1970’s Tokyo, author Barry Eisler recommended an excellent photo blog about the line called Lifetoreset and I’m very glad that I had a look at it before setting out on this densha journey.

The tiny end station of Minowabashi in the north east of Tokyo has quite a Showa-era feel to it and is quite hidden away from the roads and is famed for the colour and fragrance of its roses which run parallel to the platform.

P1050055  P1050059

From there on the street car chugs along on a small railway which dissects some quiet, residential neighbourhoods that were pretty much all new to me. It was quite strange to travel through so many parts which were unknown to me and I really did feel like I was in a different city at times. 

The best option for getting the most out of the line is the 400 yen day pass. If you just want to do a couple of journeys then the single ticket is better value at 170 yen whether you go one stop or ten stops! Ten stops away from Minowabashi is Odai which was our first true stop in terms of walking around the area a bit and when I say “a bit” I mean a bit as all we really did was cross the road for a brief look at the shrine before boarding the next tram!

P1040856  P1040855

Arakawa Yuenchi-mae is the next stop down and a little more interesting. It is home to the Arakawa Amusement Park which is a small but treasured park built in 1950 and a good place to take the little ones for a fun and cheap (200 yen entry) day out in an area which is not so crowded.

P1040860  P1040869

Before you reach the park and the old streetcar on display outside it, you will pass a small pool area where kids can navigate their way over the water in tiny water cars using arm power! I’ve no idea what you call these things!

P1040871  P1040872  P1040874  P1040876  P1040879  P1040880

Back along the road that returns us to the station is a shop specialising in American goods and a bit further on past a couple of restaurants is a temple which caught my attention due to the swastika sign above it. No, its not a place to worship the Nazi Party of Germany but in Japan the controversial symbol actually denotes a Buddhist temple. The sign can be seen on street maps around Tokyo to denote such a thing.

P1040883  P1040887

Oji-Ekimae was our next port of call and an area where the tram line mixes with cars, buses, and trucks on the road going under the proper JR railway line.

P1040888  P1040889

We crossed the road and found a small park amid some much needed shade with a very narrow stream ideal for soaking your feet in on a hot Summer’s day.

P1040896  P1040897  P1040901  P1040902

Oji Inari Shinto shrine is a brief de-tour up some steps from the stream and is probably not worth the climb for many!

P1040899  P1040900

Just round the corner on top of a hill is Asukayama park which we reached via a small cable car (free) that elevates all up from the main street.

P1040903  P1040907

This is a very family-friendly and spacious green park full of young kids playing around in the playground which possesses an old, parked train carriage and engine along with a play area and an important stone monument which was erected a long, long time ago to commemorate the opening of the park.

P1040906  P1040909  P1040910  P1040911  P1040912  P1040913  P1040916  P1040918

After exiting the park we continued on to the next destination of our journey……

P1040922  P1040923

Next: Riding One Of Tokyo’s Last Surviving Tram Lines continues in Part II

Posted in Tokyo Daytripper: | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 10 Comments

TF Top 10……’Alternative’ Museums In Tokyo

There have been many times in the past that I have visited museums when in new cities just because of a sense of obligation to do so due to what the guide books say. Japanese people tend to sleep in museums (if I can pigeon-hole a whole race into one heavy generalisation!) which is not something many other nationalities are comfortable with….or even allowed to do. I too often feel tired as soon as I enter museums and as much as I’d like to absorb all the information board material, very little ever seems to remain in my brain which is a shame but it’s also maybe a sign that these places are not for me. While I may not get too much out of visits to the art, science or history museums other than a feeling of tiredness and a slightly lighter wallet for, unlike most British museums, the ones in Japan are not free.

Having said that, there are still a fair few ‘alternative’ museums in and around Tokyo and here, in no particular order, is the Tokyo Fox top 10 recommendations. It should be noted that the Japanese use of the word ‘museum’ can be quite loose at times!!

1. Meguro Parasitological Museum, Meguro – Quite possibly the only museum in the world devoted to human and animal parasites. Not one for the fainthearted but supposedly a popular “date” destination for young couples. Maybe the guy shows his partner the 7.9m long tapeworm and then gets to comfort the shrieking girl!

2. National Football Museum, Ochanomizu – A hidden gem, this museum devotes most of its space to the 2002 World Cup Finals which it co-hosted alongside neighbours South Korea. The museum caters predominantly to the Japanese displaying the history of football in the country and features a reproduction of the national teams changing rooms in 2002 as well as other memorabilia, photos and shirts. The highlight is the ‘Mega Vision’ TV which is like being at the game as you have a panoramic view across the the giant screen enabling you to see the whole pitch from one camera angle. More details here.

10November2006 018

3. Tobacco & Salt Museum, Shibuya – It may sound dull, particular to a non-smoker and small consumer of salt products, but this is one of those quirky little museums that is perhaps deserving of just being able to say you’ve been there! The collection of cigarette packets from around the world is actually quite interesting as are some of the traditional ukiyo-e picture cards. More details here.

IMG_1863

4. Tokyo Olympic Museum, Shinjuku-ku – More commonly known as the Prince Chichibu Sports Memorial Museum this is located within the Chichibunomiya Rugby Stadium with exhibits including the winner’s podium from the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, torches, athletic uniforms, tickets, mascots, scale models and posters providing an impressive overview of the history of the Olympic Games. It also covers other sports such as rugby and football with some of the World Club Championship memorabilia on view. More details here.

Tokyo Olympic Museum

5. Ghibli Museum, Mitaka – Hugely popular place where tickets need to be bought in advance. The museum colourfully exhibits the process of making animations and there is an interesting 20 minute anime film to watch on your arrival. As well as the Miyazaki animated stuff, there are some exhibits relating to ‘Wallace and Gromit’ and ‘Morph’ of 1980’s Childrens BBC ‘Hartbeat’ fame! More details here.

Ghibli 021

6. Nihon Minkaen, Tama-ku – A rare opportunity to walk through and experience ancient Edo period style architecture first hand. These valuable historic creations have been relocated from all over Japan and feature a variety of buildings such as farmhouses, a water mill, a kabuki stage, a ferryman’s hut and an exhibition hall featuring your more common museum-type stuff displays. More details here.

P1010221

7. NHK Musuem of Broadcasting, Shibuya – Public broadcaster NHK runs tours of the sets used for their TV programmes. The majority of it is in Japanese but there is the chance to be a newsreader with an English auto cue so you too can speak in a dull, uninterested voice whilst reading some fake headlines! More details here.

6Nov2009 012

8. Omiya Bonsai Museum, Omiya – The perfect place for you to indulge yourself in the passion of Mr Miyagi of ‘Karate Kid‘ fame! This place has been open since 2010 and has displays of bonsai pots, suiseki (beautifully shaped) stones, pictures, historical bonsai materials and of course the bonsai trees themselves. This is just one of quite a few bonsai places in the area making up what is known as Omiya Bonsai Village. More details here.

IMG_0643

9. Shin Yokohama Ramen Museum, Shin Yokohama – “There’s a ramen museum in Yokohama?! You’re kidding me!” are Abby’s (the late Brittany Murphy) words in ‘The Ramen Girl‘ (2008) when asked if she’s been there. There really is one and it’s got a Showa 33 (1958?) re-production inside the place which claims to be the first food amusement park to be created anywhere in the world. More details here.

P1000588

10. Star Case, Koenji – Technically this isn’t a Star Wars museum but it goes pretty close to being one with (far more than this one!) with this fairly small shop being stuffed full of the thousands and thousands of LucasFilm merchandise goods that have been made over the years. And of course they can all be purchased! More details here.

Star Wars Shop In Tokyo!

* Honorary mentions go to Tokyo Subway Museum, Tokyo Fire Museum, Yebisu Beer Museum, JCII Camera Museum, Museum of Tin Toys, Kite Museum, Japanese Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum, Tsukuda Toy Museum, Tobu Museum of Transport & Culture, Tepco Electric Energy Museum, Sumo Museum.

Posted in Japan Life, Tokyo Daytripper: | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 5 Comments

TF Top 10……Music Videos Filmed In Japan

One of the most popular articles on Tokyo Fox over the years has been a feature called ‘Turning Japanese – Songs About Japan’ which was written in 2008 (and constantly updated since!) about international artists often feeling the need to put pen to paper and write some lyrics about their Japanese experiences. Many of these have often just been album tracks or b-sides but some have been released as singles but it seems that very few of them made their promotional videos in Japan. However, other artists have filled that void by shooting their videos in the land of the rising sun despite their songs not having anything too Japanese in their names or lyrics.

Here, in no particular order, is the Tokyo Fox top 10 (well 12 to be exact!) music videos filmed in Japan and sadly there’s no space for Avril Lavigne’s recent (s)hit ‘Hello Kitty‘!!

1. Manic Street Preachers – Motorcycle Emptiness (1992): One can only assume that the line “under neon loneliness” refers to the famous neon lights of Tokyo city and so it was felt that the video should also be set in and around Tokyo. The decision to film in Japan was a last minute one so without permits to film in the streets the band and an entirely Japanese crew (with the aid of an interpreter) directed the video guerrilla-style, whereby they had to stay one step ahead of the local police force as they filmed in Shibuya and Yokohama. Click here for more details on the exact locations. Watch it here.

Screen Shot 2012-07-01 at 21.48.12  

2. Beastie Boys – Intergalactic (1998): I remember this one for the bright Japanese construction worker koji (uniforms) which the band wore in Shinjuku and Shibuya stations. It is a parody of Japanese kaiju (monster) films and revolves around a giant robot causing destruction by fighting a giant octopus-headed creature in a Tokyo. It was made in late June 1998 and won an MTV Video Music Award for Best Hip-Hop video. Watch it here.

Screen Shot 2014-06-08 at 13.13.06  Screen Shot 2014-06-08 at 13.13.53

3. The Killers – Read My Mind (2007): Japanese TV character Gachapin; a green, bucktoothed dinosaur, featured in the video interacting with the band as they went around the streets of Shinjuku and Asakusabashi where, at the latter, they rode some unusual bicycles. Click here for more details on the exact locations. Watch it here.

Screen Shot 2012-07-02 at 12.25.57  Screen Shot 2012-07-02 at 12.24.37

4. Muse – Panic Station (2013): The original video irked many YouTube users as it featured the rising sun flag in the intro which was originally used as the war flag of the Imperial Japanese Army until the end of WW II and is considered offensive by some who associate it with Japanese militarism. However, after an apology from the band it was later replaced with the Japanese flag. Whilst in Tokyo in January 2013 during their ’2nd Law’ tour they filmed on the streets of Shibuya and at Robot Restaurant in Shinjuku’s Kabukicho district. Click here for more details on the exact locations. Watch it here.

Screen Shot 2013-05-26 at 11.35.54  Screen Shot 2013-05-26 at 11.38.29

5. Madonna – Jump (2006): Shot in Tokyo during her Confessions Tour stopover this 4th single from the ‘Confessions On A Dance Floor‘ (2005) album see Madonna in a platinum blonde bob wig and a black leather garment singing the song in front of a number of neon signs. The video also featured dancers who performed the physical discipline parkour. It really is difficult to make out where the parkour scenes were shot but it seems like some of the video at least was filmed in Shinjuku. Watch it here.

Screen Shot 2014-06-08 at 20.34.34  Screen Shot 2014-06-08 at 20.35.11

6. The Police – So Lonely (1980): Originally released in 1978 this wasn’t a hit until it was re-released and Sting and co must have been some of the first international artists to film their video in Tokyo. Street scenes from Hong Kong also featured and they were all edited together. Mita station on the Toei Mita and Asakusa lines was used as the band were seen walking up and down the train as well as on the platform. Watch it here.

Screen Shot 2014-06-08 at 12.38.25  Screen Shot 2014-06-08 at 12.38.38

7. DJ Fresh – The Feeling (2012): The music video theme seems to be all about youth and fulfilment and the feeling of ecstasy whilst these young people ride around the streets of Shinjuku, Harajuku and Ueno on relatively futuristic mopeds. Click here for more details on the locations. Watch it here.

Screen Shot 2012-10-31 at 22.03.03  Screen Shot 2012-11-02 at 22.14.30

8. Kaiser Chiefs – Man On Mars (2011): The video consists mostly of the Kaisers trip to Japan including footage of fans singing karaoke and some brief clips of their performance at the Fuji Rock Festival in 2011. This is all inter-dispersed with footage following Atsushi Takata, a Japanese fan of the band, around Tokyo and then on his way to and from the festival via bus. Click here for mored details on the exact locations. Watch it here.

Screen Shot 2013-01-30 at 23.10.54  Screen Shot 2012-08-09 at 11.48.13

9. Black Eyed Peas – Just Can’t Get Enough (2011): Filmed just a week before the 2011 Tohoku earthquake on March 11th this video was shot guerrilla-style as seems to be the norm when it comes to filming in the capital city due to the strict restrictions and regulations. Maybe this is why we so often see Tokyo portrayed on screen from hotel room windows and in the back of cars like Fergie and will.i.am respectively. Taboo sings his verse while walking Shibuya. It also includes the city’s rail network and nightlife. Watch it here.

Screen Shot 2014-06-08 at 19.59.32  Screen Shot 2014-06-08 at 19.55.07

10. Elastica – Car Song (1995): Shinjuku features yet again as this popular mid-90’s English indie band made a video which is supposedly a futuristic thriller combining elements of ‘Blade Runner‘ and Japanese monster films. The song is about having sex in a car and sees the band driving around the neon-lit streets of Tokyo whilst also doing some crazy plastic gun play in the narrow alleys of Golden Gai. Some scenes were also shot in the concourse of Shinjuku-sanchome station. Watch it here.

Screen Shot 2014-06-08 at 13.06.09  Screen Shot 2014-06-08 at 13.07.03

Bonus: Shampoo – Delicious (1994): Popular in the mid-90’s for a couple of big hits, this British female duo were the band that actually brought the term ‘big in Japan’ to my ears for the first time. This was filmed on the streets of Shibuya, particularly Center-Gai street, and also in the back of a limo being driven around neon-lit Tokyo. Watch it here.

Screen Shot 2014-06-08 at 13.29.56  Screen Shot 2014-06-08 at 13.30.58

Japan Bonus Track: Clean Bandit Ft Jess Glynne – Rather Be (2014): Sod’s law that as soon as I posted this entry on the net someone told me of this rather good tune which became number one in the UK. The video features Japanese actress Haruka Abe appearing as a fan of the band going about her daily life as a chef whilst having  hallucinations of band members appearing unexpectedly throughout. The video was made by the electronic group themselves in just under a week including guerrilla-style dancing in the train with the extras. Locations used include Tsukiji fish market, a yakitori bar and Shinjuku station. Watch it here.

Screen Shot 2014-06-13 at 16.05.26  Screen Shot 2014-06-13 at 16.06.20

Honorary Mentions: (courtesy of the comments section below! Thanks very much to all those who have informed me of these videos. Much appreciated) 

Phil Collins – Take Me Home (1986). Watch it here

Europe – Let The Good Times Rock (1989). Watch it here

N-Trance Ft Rod Stewart – Da Ya Think I’m Sexy? (1997). Watch it here

El Presidente – Turn This Thing Around (2006). Watch it here

Oasis – Acquiesce (2006). Watch it here

Katy Perry – Simple (2007). Watch it here

Kanye West – Stronger (2009). Watch it here

Lazee Ft Neverstore – Hold On (2009). Watch it here

Backstreet Boys – Bigger (2009). Watch it here

Tiesto and Sneaky Sound System – I Will Be Here (2009). Watch it here

Calvin Harris Ft Ne-Yo – Let’s Go (2012). Watch it here

Sub Focus Ft Kele – Turn It Around (2013). Watch it here

Will.i.am Ft Justin Bieber – #thatPOWER (2013). Watch it here

R5 – (I Can’t) Forget About You (2014). Watch it here

Carly Rae Jepsen – Run Away With Me (2015). Watch it here

Honne & Izzy Bizu – Someone That Loves You (2016). Watch it here

Clean Bandit Ft Demi Lovato – Solo (Japan Edition). Watch it here

If you know any more music video’s filmed in Japan then please let me know in the comments and I’ll add them. Thanks.

Posted in Japan Filming Locations, Music | Tagged , , , , , , , | 54 Comments