Turkish Delights In Tokyo

At this time of year many people’s thoughts are on turkey but, ever wanting to be different, we here at the Tokyo Fox Global Operations Centre have turned our attention to the country of Turkey.

When I went to Istanbul in 2011 it was more of a layover for a few nights and kind of got forgotten as what preceded it in Jordan was so wonderful for me. However, Turkey was also amazing and it played host to a number of films last year too as was explored back in September when I wrote about how Istanbul has been portrayed On Screen.

There is a Turkish restaurant quite near to where I live (and just a stone’s throw fromTunisian restaurant L’Azure which was one of the first international restaurants I blogged about last year) called ‘Hisar’ which I went to with my friend Mostyn. The set we had is only available on holidays but thankfully thats the Japanese meaning of the word holiday so you can get it every weekend as well as the actual holidays. We shared the chicken shish kebab and doner kebab sets which also include salad, soup, rice/bread and Turkish chai tea at around 1000 yen a set.

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Anyhow, this entry is not just about Turkish restaurants in Tokyo for there is also, and perhaps surprisingly, a Turkish mosque in the city. It’s called Tokyo Camii and is located close to Yoyogi Uehara station in Shibuya-ku. After lunch at Hisar one day I cycled on to find this mosque and was pleasantly surprised to see such architecture in this city. When I was in Istanbul I never actually went inside the Aya Sofya due to money problems (ultimately I chose to spend my money on entering the Topkapi museum) but Tokyo Camii is free and most welcoming

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I started off upstairs in the Prayer Hall as accessed by steps from the street. It’s sad to say really but I think I’ve actually learned more about the Islam religion just from watching a couple of seasons of ‘Homeland‘ and it was interesting to see the kind of praying ritual, that I’d seen on screen, in reality during my visit to this mosque.

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Upstairs was out of bounds for me as its the women’s gallery! A shame as I would’ve liked to have seen the view from up there. Instead I moved on downstairs to the first floor which has some exhibits, souvenirs, information books and an area where you can sit and enjoy some free Turkish tea. Usually I wouldn’t pass up on such an offer but as I’d had some with my pre-mosque meal I didn’t feel the need for more!

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There was a Charity Bazaar event at this place last month on the 17th which I couldn’t attend as my services were being employed elsewhere. A shame as there was a wide and varied mix of international foods available (Malaysian, Indonesian, Pakistani, Chinese, Egyptian, Arabian and of course Turkish) as well as handicrafts, books, fashion, henna, calligraphy, Islam lectures and tours of the place. I told one of my Middle-East loving students about the event and he went in the morning and was most impressed by the event. I hope to attend next year.

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Tokyo Camii is located at 1-19 Oyama-cho, Shibuya-ku and the nearest station is Yoyogi-Uehara on the Chiyoda and Odakyu lines. It is a five minute walk from there.

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TF Top 5……Lame Christmas Activities For Kids

It’s been a while since we wrote any English teaching ideas on here and with Christmas Day drawing ever closer the teachers among us are probably trying to think of a few festive games and activities to jazz up our lessons. If you’re in the mood for it all and have that Christmas feeling then these can be fun times but if you’re not into the spirit then it can all be a bit of a drag. Thankfully, help is at hand and here, in no particular order, is the Tokyo Fox Top 5……Lame Christmas Activities For Kids!

Disclaimer: This is just for fun and should not to be taken too seriously! 

1. Christmas Words Pelmanism – This card game was made pretty much as a joke last year. The lameness of this activity was rammed up to the max and it went down a storm with the students, I sh*t you not! Basically, write some festive two-syllable words or two-word phrases on two bits of paper (i.e. Snow-Man, December-25th, Christmas-Tree, Santa-Claus, Rein-Deer etc etc). It might be a good idea to get the students to just match up the two sets first to get them accustomed to the words. Once that’s done and dusted you can play a game of pelmanism with each student continuing to turn over another set of cards when they have got a correct pair. I used green and red cards to get even more into the Christmas spirit.

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2. Four-Letter Conundrum – Take the flashcard letters A, M, S, X and get the students to re-arrange them to make the festive word! This activity practices (or reinforces) phonics and you could even pad out the activity beforehand by firstly eliciting each letter and any words (festive or otherwise!) beginning with that letter. Of course, more letters could be jumbled up and rearranged to form longer Christmas-related words. Alphamats or magnetic letters can of course be used instead of flashcards.

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3. Christmas Naughts & Crosses – Use the whiteboard and divide it into 9 squares with one lexical item (i.e. Angel, Star….) either written or drawn in each square. The students then throw a sticky ball at each square with the winner being the one who manages to get three-in-a-row.

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4. Preposition Drawing – This can be done on the whiteboard or in the students’ notebooks (if you want the evidence to remain!) and first you get them to draw a Christmas tree. Then you shout out instructions like ‘the snowman is by/next to the tree’ or the ‘present is under the tree’ and let the students conjure up their own Christmas creations. Be aware that the likelihood of the kids drawing the present under the trunk of the tree is very high!

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5. Stick The Eyes & Nose On The Snowman – A lame variation on the classic ‘pin-the-tail-on-the-donkey’ party game with the students being blindfolded (or just closing their eyes) and then having to place a couple of black circles (the eyes) and an orange carrot shaped nose in the correct place on the drawing of a snowman which can either be on the whiteboard or a self-created poster on the wall. Affix either magnets or sticky tape to the back and have fun! Be aware of short kids and the possibility of a ‘Dumb & Dumber‘ type moment where the attachments are fixed to resemble a part of the man’s anatomy!!

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So there you have it! Just about any usual activity can be slightly adjusted to make it seem Christmas-y! I seem to recall doing the likes of ‘What time is it Santa?’ and ‘Is there a/an (object) in the stocking?’ years ago. If you’ve got a selection of Christmas flashcards, like below, then there’s a whole host of games available to you!

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TF Top 5……Indiana Jones Filming Locations

Poor old Indy! A classic iconic character from a highly popular franchise but belonging to a franchise that often gets forgotten about when everyone is going on about the Star Wars with regard to Disney’s acquirement of LucasFilm. When they paid $4 billion dollars to buy out the production company they also gained Indiana Jones too.

With Walt Disney Studios announcing a week ago that it had reached a marketing and distribution agreement with Paramount Pictures for future Indiana Jones films the process of making and releasing Indy 5 should be much easier. To celebrate the news that there may finally be some more Indiana Jones material on the way, we have managed to cobble together some Indy locations for this feature! Here then, in no particular order, is the TF Top 5……Indiana Jones Filming Locations (that we’ve been to!!)

1. Petra (Jordan) – ‘Indiana Jones & The Last Crusade‘ (1989): The search for the grail leads Indy through the narrow Siq to the splendour of The Treasury at this world heritage site. It featured less memorably in ‘Sinbad And The Eye Of The Tiger‘ (1977) before our favourite fedora wearing doctor made it more famous over a decade later with Sean Connery, who played his father, by his side. More details here

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2. Sidi Bouhlel, Nefta (Tunisia) – ‘Raiders Of The Lost Ark‘ (1981): When it comes to popular cultural references, yet again Indiana Jones lives in the shadows of ‘Star Wars‘ where the canyon memorably featured in the 1977 original film. George Lucas was obviously impressed with the area as he used it again years later for the scene where Indiana threatens to blow up the Ark. More details here

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3. Chiesa di San Barnaba, Venice (Italy) – ‘Indiana Jones & The Last Crusade‘ (1989): Indy finds an important clue relating to the numeral ‘X’ in this place which is a library in the film. More details here

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4. Royal Horticultural Hall, London (UK) – ‘Indiana Jones & The Last Crusade‘ (1989): This place in Westminster on Greycoat Street portrayed Berlin Airport as it did yet again in ‘The Saint‘ (1997). More details here

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5. Kairouan (Tunisia) – ‘Raiders Of The Lost Ark‘ (1981): The streets of this Islamic holy city in Tunisia’s carpet capital represented Cairo in Egypt and many of these places look very similar today. Perhaps the most famous scene is the one in the market where Harrison Ford (kind of!) improvised a scene and just shot the sword-wielding assassin as the extreme heat was affecting his health and he just wanted a short end to the filming. More details here

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TF Top 5……Kyoto Filming Locations

Inevitably the majority of foreign film productions usually only come to Tokyo when they make their films in Japan but a handful have also taken place in Kyoto and so here are the Tokyo Fox top 5……Kyoto Filming Locations…

1. Fushimi-Inari taisha Jinja – One of the coolest places in Japan, this shrine in the mountains has hundreds and hundreds of tori gates with its moment of fame coming when it featured in ‘Memoirs Of A Geisha‘ (2006) as a young Chiyo runs through them in one of the movie’s most defining moments. More details here

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2. Chion-in – A bit of CGI is used in ‘The Last Samurai‘ (2003) as the steep steps at this shrine lead to a very dominating building directly at the top. In reality there is no such place dominating the skyline. More details here

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3. Heian-jingu Shrine – Scarlett Johanson walks over the stepping stones in this shrine’s garden in ‘Lost In Translation‘ (2003) before moments later walking across the impressive shrines grounds. The beautiful bridge amid the gardens also appears briefly in the final moments of ‘Memoirs Of A Geisha‘ (2006). More details here and here

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4. Kiyomizudera – A very major sight in its own right and nearly always part of one’s itinerary when visiting Kyoto. It featured highly in one extensive scene in ‘Wasabi‘ (2000) with Hubert (Jean Reno) and his former colleague Momo investigating Miko’s death whereby they find some important clues among the wooden placades. The three storey pagoda features a few times in ‘Memoirs Of A Geisha‘ (2006) between scenes to  show that a new day or season has begun. More details here and here

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5. Yoshimine-dera Temple – It may be Fushimi-inari where the young Chiyo starts her run but a bit of movie magic has her ending up at this temple where she throws the Chairman’s coin into the saisenbako and makes a wish in ‘Memoirs Of A Geisha‘ (2006). Be aware that this temple is a 3o minute bus ride away from Mukomachi station on the JR Kyoto Line. More details here

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“Momiji” Comes To Tokyo On Her Holidays

Autumn time is famed for its beautifully coloured leaves (and for these fine specimens too!) with the red ones known as momiji a.k.a. Japanese red maple tree but a far prettier sight was on hand for us this Fall as my girlfriends family dog came to stay with us for a few weeks whilst they were away in Italy. Her name too is Momiji.

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She’s 5 years old and is a cross between a chihuahua and a poodle and is sooooooo cute! Her eyes stare at you with such cuddly-toy dog style intensity and you instantly melt in her presence.

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It’s been a long while (over 15 years!) since I had to look after a dog properly and I’d forgotten how nice it was to have one as a companion although it was also tiring at times as I often took Momiji out four times a day! As the first to wake up I usually took her out for a pee in the morning and then again just a couple of hours later before I left for work. Back home in Hiroshima she’s used to going bed at 8pm and getting up at 4-5am but with us things changed quite a bit!

On a few of the midweek days she was often left for 9-10 hours by herself before I got home and took her straight out followed by a final sanpo (walk) at around midnight before we all went to bed, usually with her lying in between us. I sure missed not having a back garden at times during this period! How nice it would’ve been to just push the back door open and let her out! Thankfully, she is very well trained and behaved and never once left any toilet business for us to clean up!

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She has stayed at our place before but that was just for a few days back in July. This time it ended up being for nearly three weeks! My girlfriends mother came to pick her up and stayed for the final week in the process which was very nice and meant she wasn’t left on her own for such lengths of time.

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We took Momiji to Inokashira Park in Kichijoji one Sunday and Yoyogi Park in Harajuku the one after with an additional trip to the latter with my girlfriends mum a few days after that. She always got plenty of attention when we were walking or carrying her among the Autumn leaves of these parks. It was interesting to see Momiji chase birds, interact with other dogs (bum sniffing and all that!), play with a simple stick and basically  act like a dog which she rarely gets to do in the confines of Japanese apartments.

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Unable to jump up on to our bed so easily we had to put a folded-up futon down next to the bed as a kind of stepping aid for her. It was also used as a place of rest of course as indeed were many other parts of the apartment including the sofa and the bed.

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She was quite a high-maintenance dog at times always wanting to play or be stroked or touched and it was strange to return home the other day and not have her excitedly wagging her tail and jumping all over me at the door. She’ll be back one day though!

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Review: Films Set In Japan – 47 Rōnin (2013)

As the end credits finally roll on this 121 minute tale of honour, loyalty and sacrifice a caption says, as it usually does in all movies, that “all characters appearing in this work are fictitious” and so on which is a shame as the story of these 47 brave heroes is far greater than what’s served up in this over-fictionalised film.

Admittedly, expectations for this new re-working of a famous Japanese story were pretty low to start with and the additions of CGI beasts, monsters, witches, ghosts and gladiators did nothing to stop the rot. In fact, they did more harm than good in my opinion and Keanu Reeves playing a “half-breed” character created solely for the film wasn’t much better. I felt his character Kai was rather under-used in the first half of this movie and though he has more time on screen in the latter part its clear that his presence is just for the benefit of Hollywood with laughable English dialogue and some romantic shenanigans thrown in for good measure too.

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Feudal Japan was recreated on a specially created set at Shepperton Studios in London as well as in Budapest and the Isle of Skye in Scotland. The story starts off with Kai being found and raised by Lord Asano as a servant who acquires some sword mastery and the affections of his daughter, Mika. However, he doesn’t gain the respect of Asano’s band of samurai including Oishi played by Hiroyuki Sanada from ‘The Last Samurai‘ (2003). Anyway, there’s some kind of hallucination trick performed on Asano by neighbouring lord Kira and Rinko Kikuchi’s witch character that results in him having to kill himself as punishment. 

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Without their master the samurai are brought together again one year on with a plot to avenge their avenge the death and dishonour of their leader by raiding the chief instigators castle. By now Kai is a much better and improved fighter having spent the year as a slave fighting beasts, monsters and what-have-you-not. Needless to say that he eventually earns the respect of those that previously looked down on him.

My girlfriend’s mum was originally going to accompany me to this but sadly had to pass on such an invitation which was a shame as I’d love to get the opinion of a Japanese person on this. Whilst I was groaning with displeasure at the terribly cheesy dialogue and bad English (and that was just from Reeves!) in the films final scenes the lady sat a couple of seats to my right was blubbering and sniffling away no end. I’m not Japanese and so can’t really pass judgement too much on Japan’s most famous example of the bushido code but I would’ve thought the Japanese people would be embarrassed by this over-the-top Hollywood version.

Only a few days ago did Tokyo Fox bring you the backstory on the real 47 Rōnin and where their resting place can be found in Tokyo The film ends with a caption or two informing the audience that every December 14th, the 47 Rōnin are honoured with a procession and ceremony at Sengakuji Temple. Those reading this in Japan would be better off spending their time visiting that temple than watching this.

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Tokyo Fox Rating 4/10

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From Russia With Love

It’s the largest country in the world covering more than one-eighth of the Earth’s inhabited land area. I may have visited a handful of countries around the world but I’ve never truly visited Russia although I have actually been to Moscow airport on an Aeroflot transit between Tokyo and London many years ago. I’ve also been to quite a few filming locations which doubled-up as Russia (GoldenEye, The Saint, Air Force One and The Bourne Supremacy) but am still yet to step foot in the real St Petersburg or Moscow.

One place where I never expected to experience anything Russian (food and vodka excluded!) was in Tokyo but whilst browsing through my copy of ‘Tokyo Adventures’ by Tae Moriyama I discovered that there was an example of Byzantine-style architecture in Ochanomizu. Nikolai Cathedral, in its present guise, has been around since 1929 after the original was completely destroyed during the great Kanto earthquake six years earlier.

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Its distinctive green dome and high old stone walls gives the cathedral a very recognisable identity not fitting in with the rest of the area’s identikit office blocks. Nikolai-do, as its known in Japanese, is named after St. Nicholas Kasatkin (1836-1912) who was the founder of the cathedral.

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It can be found around the corner from Yureizaka (a.k.a. ghost street as featured in my Metropolis article!) and pretty close to the Japan World Cup Museum, Matsuya (a soba restaurant and not the gyu-don chain!) and the Kanda River of which all have appeared on this site before. Throw them all together into one super-Ochanomizu package and you’ve got a day trip in the making.

Entrance is supposed to be 300 yen although for some reason I only got charged 100 yen and that included a candle. The fee is a recommended donation but given that there’s a kind of reception desk on the right as you enter there doesn’t seem to be much choice unless you’re the kind of person who likes confrontation!

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It’s not really worth the money in my opinion as you can only go within a certain restricted zone near the entrance unless you’re attending one of the services on Saturday evenings (18:00) or Sunday mornings (10:00). However, from the outside its an impressive sight and deserving of a few moments of anyone who is passing by.

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Nikolai Cathedral is about 100 metres away from the east exit of JR Ochanomizu Station or if you’re using Shin-Ochanomizu Station then its just a short walk from the B1 exit.

Whilst we’re on a Russian theme I may as well take the opportunity to lump a couple of pictures from ‘Sungari‘ in as well. This is a Russian (and Georgian) restaurant on the west side of Shinjuku located just a minute or two away from the JR West gate. When I went for lunch there recently there was a queue outside but once I got inside I had classic borscht consisting of beets, cabbage, onions, potatoes and tomatoes served with herbs and sour cream in a soup. The set also came with homemade rye bread and creamed mushroom and white asparagus served in a small pot which is all a bit more Ukrainian style.

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Dining Out: Moomin Bakery & Cafe (Finland)

Think Finland and images of a cold place, polar bears, Nokia phones, blonde hair, blue eyes, F1 drivers, Arctic Circle, Lapland and Santa come to mind. One other thing to come from the Scandinavian country is the Moomins; a family of white fairy tale characters with large snouts resembling hippos who live in Moominvalley and have appeared in a series of books, comic strips and animations on TV and in film.

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There are a handful of Finnish restaurants dotted around Tokyo but I guess its the Moomin Cafe & Bakery which is the most famous one. It’s located within Tokyo Dome City theme park which is where my girlfriend and I went when we visited Bubba Gump Shrimp restaurant a couple of years ago.

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I kind of wanted to go for the Moomin rice plate just for the photo opportunity but in the end I did what I often do in these international restaurants and just order the dish with the name of the country in the title. With that in mind, I had the Finland Plate (1500 yen) which was a little expensive for what it was but it did include a drink and all-you-can-eat bread. Not just any bread though as this included a wide range of breads freshly produced in the bakery which is adjacent to the cafe.

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Having had to line up outside for a short time I entered the place which was full, mostly with young families and young-at-heart girls with an interest in the Moomins aspect of it. The staff are dressed up in some kind of costume with the guys wearing top hats too so I guess it could be considered a bit of a theme restaurant. The cutlery is Moomin-themed too and each table has a fluffy Moomin character placed at it watching over your meal. I only had a small Moomin on my table which was of course more than sufficient for a man of my age who knows very little about the Moomins! For the kids though it’s great and there are even some life-size one’s using up a whole chair at some of the tables.

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The bakery is next door and features no-end of Moomin shaped and themed breads, cakes and biscuits as well as some other souvenir merchandise.

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Moomin Cafe & Bakery is at Tokyo Dome City LaQua 1-1-1 Kasuga in Bunkyo-ku and the nearest stations are either Kasuga (Toei Mita and Oedo lines), Korakuen (Marunouchi and Nanboku lines) or Suidobashi (Chuo-Sobu and Toei Mita lines).

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The 47 Rōnin At Sengakuji Temple

With a big Hollywood actor now starring in the forthcoming ‘47 Rōnin‘ movie the story of these 47 loyal samurai will be taken to an all-new and much bigger audience. Unbelievably, its one of those rare films which gets its worldwide release here in Japan whilst the UK and USA have to wait till Christmas time for its release. Keanu Reeves has top billing and he’s ably supported by Rinko Kikuchi of ‘Babel‘ (2004) and ‘Pacific Rim‘ (2013) fame. Hiroyuki Sanada from ‘The Last Samurai‘ (2003) is also cast.

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For anyone wanting to get a real feel for this story they really ought to make their way down to Sengakuji Temple which possesses the burial ground of the 47 loyal samurai who  (WARNING: plot spoiler coming up for anyone who doesn’t know the story!) set out to avenge the death and dishonour of their leader by raiding the chief instigators castle where they ruthlessly and violently beheaded him. Their following collective action was to commit suicide which was seen as an honour.

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Arriving at Sengakuji you encounter the outer gate and then the inner gate (above) and just to the right of that is the statue of Ōishi Yoshio (below); the real leader of the 47 rōnin.

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To be honest I’d never really had too much affection for Sengakuji Temple despite having been there three or four times! However, that was before I begun to realise its deep history rather than just checking it off a list of sights to get round as part of some of my Tokyo cycling challenges. These have included cycling Tokyo’s Top 25 Sights in one day where I didn’t even go inside, and last year I learned a bit more about the place as I cycled there on a themed tour of Tokyo’s most haunted sights.

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Once you’ve gone through the inner gate there is a path on the left which will take you towards the graves of the 47 rōnin. There is a tiny hut selling postcards, candles and incense sticks and just beyond that is the map which indicates where each warrior, who was willing to die for their lord, is buried though sadly its only in Japanese.

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No less than six films have already been made about the forty-seven Rōnin. I haven’t seen any of them and I can’t say that the trailer really got me too excited. It all looks a bit like a coming together of ‘Gladiator‘ (2000), ‘Lord Of The Rings‘ (2001), ‘Attack Of The Clones‘ (2002) and ‘The Last Samurai‘ (2003) but who can really tell from just two minutes of fast paced and cleverly edited footage.

This fantasy adventure and martial arts story of the 47 warriors who seized eternity was filmed in Budapest, London and the Isle of Skye in Scotland. We were originally told that it was not shot in Japan at all but sources are now saying that filming did indeed conclude here. We will find out very soon for sure!

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Sengakuji Temple is at 2-11-1 Takanawa in Minato-ku and ‘47 Rōnin’ is released in Japan on the 6th December 2013

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TF Recipes #2 – Sashimi On Toast

Way back in 2010 we introduced you to the fine delicacy that is miso-on-toast (seen here in TF Recipes #1) and now, over three and a half years later, is the not-so anticipated follow up!

Follow these five simple steps to make an authentic (?) Japanese dish…

Step One: Put one or two slices of bread into the toaster for around 2 mins

Step Two: Use a knife to spread butter on the toast (if desired) and, after you have done that, add the pieces of salmon or maguro (tuna) and it should look like something like this. (below)

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Step Three: Place the slices of sashimi on toast back into the toaster oven for an extra minute to lightly grill the masterpiece. (below)

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Step Four: When toasted the sashimi-on-toast should look something like this once you’ve added anything extra you may like such as cucumber, shiso and mayonnaise. (below)

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Step Five: Put the sashimi-on-toast in your mouth and eat it. (below)

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But what did it taste like I hear you ask. Only one way to find out!!

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