TF Recipes #3 – Natto On Toast

No sooner had Tokyo Fox wrapped up the last TF Recipes entry and thoughts turned to what the next specialities could be. Natto (fermented soy beans) had been chosen and, what do you know, but within a few weeks those scamps at RocketNews24 had published an article detailing pretty much the same thing albeit with a hint of honey and some sesame seeds added.

Natto is the one Japanese dish which can meet resistance from foreigners and Japanese alike due to its smell. On top of that its also incredibly sticky and stringy but its very healthy as its packed with nutrients. Maybe its just my nose but I really can’t notice its supposed powerful aroma. I’ve developed quite a taste for natto in recent months and often eaten it at breakfast along with tofu and either okura or cucumber.

Ever desperate to try out some new dishes of mixed fusion we tried natto-on-toast with honey butter which was more down to the fact that the normal butter ran out rather than trying to replicate something similar to what that “other website” did.

If you thought the previous two Japanese toast specialities were a bit complicated with a massive five instructions to follow then fear not as natto-on-toast only has the four steps!! Follow them to make this authentic (?) Japanese dish…

Step One: Assemble your ingredients and put one or two slices of bread into the toaster for 2-3 mins.

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Step Two: Use a knife to spread butter on the toast (if desired) followed by the honey butter.

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Step Three: Take the natto and whisk it up with chopsticks or a fork until its bubbling and frothy. Then add it to the toast and it should look like something like this.

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Step Four: Put the natto-on-toast in your mouth and eat it.

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But what did it taste like I hear you ask. Only one way to find out!!

Posted in Food & Drink | Tagged , , , , , , , | 5 Comments

TF Interview…..With Football Commentator Ian Stringer

Following the soaring success of the last TF interview with author Tim Andrewartha its about time for another one. Whilst in the legendary Gonpachi (a.k.a. the ‘Kill-Bill’ place) restaurant in Nishi-Azabu I sat down with BBC Radio Leicester’s football commentator Ian Stringer. Having been interviewed by him at Meiji Shrine a couple of days earlier for a feature on the stations breakfast show I decided to turn  the tables on him and probe him about his thoughts on Japan, Leicester City and commentating.

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N.B. This is just a condensed sample of the interview. If you want to hear the full interview then its available as a podcast on iTunes. Click here to get it for FREE!

So what brings you to Tokyo Ian? The Tokyo Marathon is why I’m here. I’m taking part on Sunday for the Leicester baby loss appeal. (You can donate here). It’s one of the six world marathons and a relatively new addition to the marathon scene and Tokyo’s where I wanted to go.

And what’s the backstory on your Marathon stuff I started in 2012. I ran my first marathon in London for the Leicester City Foxes Foundation; Alan Birchenal’s one in a million appeal. He convinced me I should give it a go so I did. I raised a few quid for the foundation, I think it was 19 grand. I got bitten by the marathon bug after that so that year I ran in London, Windermere, Wolverhampton, Leicester and Bangkok and then the following year a few more. It’s just a personal thing. I started in 2012 so I’m still relatively young in my marathon running experience.

You’ve clocked up a fair few there! Yeah that’s 8 and it will be 9 if I finish the Tokyo one which I hope so!

I can see you have a very interesting diet so can you tell us a bit more about it? It’s kind of a Palio diet really. I’m not eating potatoes, bread or grains so lots of meat, vegetables and fruit, a bit of dairy but no refined carbohydrates because of the way in which they’re digested. Certainly no sugar! I’ve had no sugar for the last four months and its going well but the Tokyo marathon will be the first time I’ve tried to run the marathon without the aid of sugar.

What are your impressions so far of Japan ? Well I’m basing my impressions on a visit to the capital city of course as I’ve not been anywhere other than Tokyo but I love it, absolutely love it. I adore the place. Its clean, incredibly efficient and seems crime-free. I think I’ve seen one police car in four days. I’ve not seen any litter. Trains are on time. There’s somebody looking after every job. Everyone takes pride in what they do. The food is magnificent. We’re sat in a restaurant now where a guy has cooked me on open coals a fish which I imagine wasn’t caught too long ago. So everything’s been positive so far. It’s a wonderful city. I’ve met some wonderful people, (seen some) incredible views and I’m very fortunate to even be here…and of course I’ve met the Tokyo Fox!!

How did your Leicester City story begin as a fan? Where did you used to sit or stand? My dad took me to my first game when I was three and we’d go down to Filbert Street a couple of times a season. My first experience was in the Double Decker (stand) but from the age of, probably seven, I was in the Kop, in pen 4. I was pushed down to the front by my dad. He stood at the back with his friends. I was mascot when I was ten, away at Wolves. We lost 2-1. Colin Gibson scored the goal of the season but Steve Bull scored twice; the first one before I’d even got out of the changing room! So mascot, season ticket holder, member, Junior Fox, visits to Wembley more times than I can remember so very early I fell in love with the club because my dad forced me to but when its a club like Leicester City you rely on your offspring being the future of your club and thats certainly the way with my little boy.

So how about a time when you think you called it to perfection. …in terms of goals away at Leeds was an important goal. Nugent scored with four minutes to go and I feel I got that one right. We actually have a commentary coach; a guy called Rob Noffman who works for 5 Live and he gives us some very formulaic insights into our commentary. He’ll listen to our 90 minutes and tally how many times you say the score, the time, identify the station and he’ll also mark you on how you can beat the crowd to an incident so when a shot comes in if you hear the crowd go “ooooh” you kind of don’t need to say whats happened because people know. Its too late. Now I’ve got the advantage of having the speed of sound on my side so we’re marked and assessed on whether we can beat that and be on top of the goals and say where was the ball, who scored, how long to go and encapsulate what your audience will be feeling at local level when that goes in. National level as well but when its international football Mike Ingham calling an England goal will have a degree of partisan approach to the commentary whereas if it was Fulham v Arsenal he’ll be relatively balanced for a goal but its knowing your audience and calling it right at that time, there and then.

What’s criticisms are labelled at you or the radio coverage and whats your response? Twitter is an interesting place to gain information but remember that its only a certain proportion of your audience who are tuned into social media. The masses will listen and potentially enjoy…..silently. I mean how many people write into ‘Top Gear‘  and say great show, well done, keep going! You don’t do you?! You’ve got to assume that you’ll have some happy customers given the listening figures at the moment are very, very good. Negatives are some people don’t like certain elements. There are purists out there who believe that they should know where the ball is every second of the game.

Which City players would be in your all-time XI and you don’t need to name the whole team! Kasey Keller was a very good goalkeeper and Kasper Schmeichel is a fine goalkeeper too. Simon Grayson will live long in the memory. Steve Walsh and Matt Elliott defensively. Mancini would be in there. Neil Lennon. Muzzy Izzet. Steve Claridge is my favourite Leicester player ever so my front pairing would probably be Lineker and Claridge.

What’s the most famous number or contact you have in your phone? Maybe Sven. Gary Lineker maybe. Those two will do for now!

Who are your favourite commentators on TV and radio? I’m a big fan of Simon Brotherton. He’s on top of everything. He calls the action very, very well. I admire the pace in his voice. Your job is to convince people that at that second they should be turning their radio up by changing your pace and pitch and allowing the listener to sit on the edge of the seat and feel for their volume control and up it because something could happen and I think Brotherton does that very well. Obviously Mike Ingham and Alan Green are the BBC’s top guys but then you can’t look past Ian Darke, Alan Parry and Jon Champion. There’s an awful lot out there. Darren Fletcher. I think he’s a very good commentator. I like him a lot and he’s brilliant on 6-0-6.

Is there another sport you’d like to try your hand at in terms of commentating on it? Sumo!! The temptation of course is to say Formula 1 because of the glamour attached but I’d probably say that at the minute with Andy Murray’s strong position in the tennis world it would be a real blessing to follow him around the world. Likewise, Justin Rose is probably in the peak of his career right now. Can you imagine calling a Ryder Cup putt?

I think many people think you and our manager Nigel Pearson hate each other. I don’t believe that so what’s going on when the mic’s not on? Nigel and I get on really well. He’s very guarded as an individual, not just with us. He’ll never come out with soundbites like Ian Holloway! Always a handshake pre and post-interview and usually a whack on the back! There was one at Birmingham the other day when we were talking about Jack Hobbs and he’d been linked with the club and I knew it was ‘agent-talk’  but we’ve gotta ask it and he played the game and said he wasn’t sure about that and that he didn’t comment on speculation. I said “well you could end the speculation by telling us” and afterwards it sounded really frosty but he gave me a massive whack on the back with a huge smile as he walked off and he winked as if to say “I’m playing the game.” He’s a man of principle, honour and trust and he’s a man who, as a journalist, you’ve gotta do your ground work with. I don’t think we have a bad relationship. I think we have a good solid working relationship and I have to say he’s one of the best football managers Leicester City have had.

If you could choose any guest to have on the Football Forum (Monday’s 6-7pm) who would it be? It would be Martin O’Neill because I think our audience would enjoy it. You can’t pick your guests on who you individually want. I think he’d be desired by our audience. I think he’d make an incredible guest and I’d love to get him on. He’d offer great insight so maybe one day!

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Ian did of course complete the Tokyo Marathon on Sunday 23rd February. His time was 3 hours 55 minutes. Congratulations to him for all his efforts and for allowing Tokyo Fox to interview him. 

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Tokyo Daytripper: Ian Stringer Special!

Imagine leaving your familiar surroundings of home to visit a country where you’re slightly consumed with uncertainty and having a radio fanboy constantly asking you questions about players you’ve interviewed or people you work with. Well that was the case for Radio Leicester’s Ian Stringer this last week as he had to put up with me guiding him round for a few days!!

The legendary voice of Leicester City games (500+ live matches under his belt now) on the BBC was in town very recently and Tokyo Fox had the privileged position of being in charge of most of his itinerary not counting the Tokyo Marathon which was of course his main reason for being here!!

Anyone who read the last entry will know that we met at Harajuku station and moved on to Meiji Shrine which was where we did the report for the BBC Radio Leicester breakfast show. As I eluded to in that interview we would be going on to Harajuku’s Takeshita-dori and on towards Shibuya and the impressive scramble-crossing which I enthused about in a manner which took me by surprise! This place rarely fails to amaze first-timers and for me is still the number one thing to witness in Tokyo.

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Once we’d looked around a few shops (Tokyo Hands, Kamo Soccer Shop and Don Qixote) it was time for a spot of classic conveyor-belt sushi lunch. Things weren’t that straightforward though as Ian’s pre-marathon diet (known as the Palio diet) of no sugar, no bread, no potatoes, no noodles and no rice meant that his sushi was more like sashimi! Still, it meant more rice for me!!

At night Shinjuku’s Yasukuni-dori is an awe-inspiring spectacle of vibrant colours amid the cluster of high rise buildings full of restaurants and bars. The view has featured in so many movies and TV programmes over the years and I guess its become the classic shot (alongside Shibuya crossing) of the neon lights of Tokyo really hitting the foreigner visiting these shores. That was certainly the case for Ian who loved this area and of course many pictures were taken of this area when we reconvened later that evening for a quick wander around the Kabukicho area followed by a a few meat dishes in a couple of a Japanese-style bars.

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Nezu jinja Shrine (below) is quite famous for Japanese people but less so for tourists so it was quite nice to go somewhere away from the crowds. I thought this place would be quite good for its mix of serenity, bright red torii gates and the fox deities which guard the place. Believe me, there are not many fox connections in Tokyo so such tenuous links were all we could find though there would still be one more! After walking back through  Ueno Park we took a train a couple of stops down the Yamanote line to Akihabara which is famous for its electric town, otaku culture and maid cafes!!

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@home cafe is a place I’ve been to a few times over the years when I’ve had guests visit and is usually one I relish as it tends to put the person I’m with so far out of their comfort zone. Ian was most taken aback that a maid was playing Connect 4 with a customer and the ‘moe‘ hand action movement and song you have to do when your drink is served was bizarre to say the least. No visit to one of these places is complete without a polaroid photo with one of the maids and at 6ft 3 he got a lot of reaction from the maids and even when on his knees he was still pretty much the same height as the maid he was photographed with! (For some reason his photograph has the wrong date on it!)

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As for that fox reference I promised you earlier, that was on the overly sugar-concentrated drink I ordered. Usually they use the chocolate sauce to draw cats in your drink but I demanded kitsune (fox) and you can judge for yourself how good it is!

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The worlds busiest transport hub is Shinjuku station and that was where we began our third and final day together. Sadly we were a bit too late, and on the wrong side of the gates, to see the tidal wave of humanity pouring onto its trains during rush hour. The main reason for meeting in Shinjuku was to take him up the Metropolitan Government Building which was a good idea as thats exactly where the Marathon would be starting two days later. He’d already been up the Tokyo Sky Tree on his first day so he’d witnessed the wall-to-wall concrete skyline that goes well beyond Tokyo’s borders. These two-towers in Shinjuku are 202 metres high and the observation deck on the 45th floor of each tower has a souvenir shop (as one may expect) which is quite good.

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Gonpachi in Nishi-Azabu is perhaps more famously known as the ‘Kill Bill‘ restaurant as it served as the inspiration for the ‘House of Blue Leaves’ in Tarantino’s 2004 film. That would be our final stop but a memorable one and one that he really loved. I’m glad to report that the free salad bar is back (it wasn’t there the last time I went but was the first time) and this place is very cosmopolitan now with many foreigners among the chefs and waiters as well as the customers too!

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I’d warned him a couple of days before that I wanted to turn the tables on him and interview him for Tokyo Fox which he gladly accepted and we did that amid the atmospheric shamisen background music sounds of this very nice, cavernous, rustic-themed place.

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Tokyo Fox On BBC Radio!!

BBC Radio Leicester’s football commentator Ian Stringer has been in Tokyo this last week ready to take part in tomorrows Tokyo Marathon and last Wednesday morning Tokyo Fox made an appearance on the station’s breakfast show presented by Jonathan Lampon. Having got in touch via the medium of Twitter a few weeks ago we continued to exchange quite a few mails and I said I’d be more than happy to help him out on his trip here so we agreed to meet up outside Harajuku station that morning.

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We wandered through the inner gardens which lead to the Meiji shrine chatting away excitedly and not really taking in the place too much. Before not too long Ian was telling me that he was going to do a feature piece for that mornings breakfast show. It was about 01.15am back in Britain so he needed to get it recorded and mailed back to the radio station ready for use which was done via the help of McDonalds wi-fi!!

Anyway, part of the recording featured an interview with me which I was a bit worried about as my voice isn’t so radio friendly! Using the voice memo on his phone, he just started recording and began to set the scene a few metres away from me and then suddenly I was being asked a few questions about why I supported Leicester City, my hometown, my reasons for being in Tokyo, life in Japan, the places I was gonna take him after the interview, whether I was going to follow that nights big game against local rivals Nottingham Forest and so on. Beforehand, I had expected to freeze and not have much to say but I got into it and waffled on about all kinds of cr*p which surprised me. I have to say that I loved doing it and was buzzing afterwards as we exited the park.

I didn’t actually get to hear it back till a couple of days later and though a bit strange and cringeworthy at times, I did love it, particularly the reaction of the presenter afterwards. It took a while for me to realise that he was just reading the words Ian had sent him in his accompanying mail which were jokingly dictated by myself!

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With my parents being avid Radio Leicester listeners, I have grown up listening to the station when in their presence which was of course quite often! As a lifelong Leicester City fan I have naturally always followed their football output so I was delighted to meet up with the guy who is doing what I, and many others, consider to be the dream job! Typically, my parents missed the show that morning which was a shame as I’d have loved for them to hear me coming out of their radio.

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Thankfully, these days we can quite easily catch-up with what we miss so if you did miss it then you can listen again to it here. I’m featured at 7.27am which is 1 hour 27 into the programme but please be aware that this link will not work after February 26th as BBC content is only available for a week.

Posted in Japan Life, Leicester City | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 5 Comments

8 (Not So) Gr-Eight Observations Of Japan From Yesteryear To Celebrate Our 8th Birthday

The phenomenon that is social media hadn’t really taken off in the early months of 2006 when I, along with the help of friend Gideon, set up this website. Tokyo Fox went online on February 20th with no real aim or focus other than keeping a record of things for myself and giving my parents the chance to actually know what I’ve been up to. Its never really caught on with too many of my actual friends but it has managed to find an audience with a few hundred people everyday, most of whom are usually just doing google searches of movie locations or whatever.

I was surprised as anyone else that Tokyo Fox made it past the first one or two entries but here we are eight years on and its still going strong despite social media having pretty much killed off most bloggers. To mark the occasion, I have handpicked the eight articles on here that have shaped the brand. Some people have said that Tokyo Fox is like the BBC sports show ‘Grandstand‘. No, not a dated format with no place in the modern world but a framework for showcasing many different things!! Of course the filming locations take most of the glory with the other stuff like film reviews, cycling trips and places in Japan holding up quite well too. However, when the site started with this entry (read it here, its pretty awful!) what followed for the first few months were observations of how customs and life are so different here. Of course I was fairly knew to it all back then so take what I said with a pinch of salt!

So to celebrate our 8th birthday I have dug deep into the Tokyo Fox archive to bring you eight articles from back when we were just getting started. I’d hate for you to miss any of the quality observations just because you recently stumbled upon our site. If you’re a devout Tokyo Fox reader, thanks for sticking around!

1. The great chopstick question – How many times can Japanese people ask you if you can use chopsticks? The answer is many many! More details here

2. White Day a.k.a. March 14th – What the hell’s this all about? Marketing!! That’s about the size of it! More details here

3. Getting caught short at work – A busy schedule doesn’t always allow time for toilet breaks but when you’ve gotta go you’ve gotta go! More details here

4. The only gaijin in the village – Who are these other foreigners doing here?! This is my patch and you’re not welcome!! More details here

5.  Show me the money – Japan is modern for many things but its attitude to credit cards isn’t one of them! More details here

6. Bumping into people – Don’t mind me!! More details here

7. Japanese people too honest for their own good – Honesty is not always the best policy is it?! More details here

8. Only in Japan – A nice moment to let one not get too frustrated by other things in this country. There are many positives and this is one such example! More details here

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Tokyo Daytripper: Elephant Temple In Tokyo!

Go to any one of the thousands of temples that exist in and around Tokyo and you’ll find that it is more than likely guarded by foxes, dogs or lions but there are a few exceptions. Last September I reported on the shrine in Shibuya which is guarded by wolves and back in November, whilst getting my Myanmar visa, I took a bit of a detour to this temple in Minami Shinagawa as I had a couple of hours to spare. Not exactly a day trip, or even a half day one, but thats the banner under which this article will fly!

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This temple is located at the end of a narrow alley leading from the main road and immediately stands out due to its unusual but very beautiful elephant gate which is very Indian/hindu looking in its appearance. The gate is counted as a Tangible Cultural Property of Shinagawa Ward…not that I have any idea what that means exactly!!

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Of course elephants are no strangers to the pages of Tokyo Fox having featured prominently on our recent trip to Thailand where we spent a day doing elephant training up in Chiang Mai which helped gain a deeper affection for these huge animals. While its fair to say the same level of appreciation can’t quite be acquired at this temple, seeing elephants standing guard (one with tusks and one without) is a unique sight and as you go in to the complex there are some golden-coloured elephants, buddha statues, paintings and lotus motifs symbolising fortune, purification and faithfulness in Buddhism.

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It’s thanks to the excellent Rurousha blog that I even knew about this place and her site tells the story (in much better words!) of some woman falling asleep and in her  dream a bull elephant bearing a white lotus flower circles her a few times before striking her with its trunk and magically disappearing into her body thereby creating a baby!

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So there you have it, another interesting little place tucked away in the huge metropolis of Tokyo which is proof that there are many hidden delights out there for one to find by just getting out there and taking a look around.

Shinryō-ji temple can be found at 2-7-25 Minami Shinagawa and Aomono-Yokochō is the closest station on the Keikyu Main Line.

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TF Top 10……Most Romantic* Filming Locations

With Valentine’s Day just around the corner what better way to celebrate the most romantic date (or what we’re told should be the romantic date!) on the calendar than taking a look at some places which have provided the backdrop for some scenes of affection being shown between lovers. Of course these images are helped on the silver screen with clever editing, added studio footage, CGI and musical scores which all add to the occasion. Basically, what we’re saying is that what you saw happen on screen may not transfer itself to your visit! This Tokyo Fox list features a mix of the good, the obvious, the bizarre and the plain wrong! So here without further ado is our Top 10……Most Romantic* Filming Locations…

(* The Tokyo Fox definition of romance!)

1. Villa Del Balbianello, Como (Italy): ‘Star Wars Episode II: Attack Of The Clones‘ (2002) & ‘Casino Royale‘ (2006) – A double dose of romantic action to get us started. Anakin and Padmé got secretly married here in the former and Bond recovers from his beating and then declares his love for Vesper in the latter. More details here and here.

 

2. Royal Exchange Building, London (UK): ‘Bridget Jones’s Diary‘ (2000) – Bridget catches up with Darcy here and is relieved to see him present her with a new diary so that they can make a new start together as one. More details here.

 

3. St. Mark’s Anglican Church Darling Point, Sydney (Australia): ‘Muriel’s Wedding‘ (1994) – There’s surely got to be a church somewhere in this list and so its this one! Muriel finally realises her dream here…or does she?! More details here.

  

4. Bocca Della Verita, Rome (Italy): ‘Roman Holiday‘ (1954) – Providing the films most famous scene where Joe pulls his hand out of the ‘mouth of truth’ with his hand up his sleeve astonishing Ann. More details here.

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5. Maya Bay, Phuket (Thailand): ‘The Beach‘ (2000) – Leo not only stole the heart of the beautiful Francoise here but he stole her from “French boy” too! Don’t expect to have this place to yourselves is all I’m saying! More details here.

  

6. Katz’s Deli, New York (USA): ‘When Harry Met Sally‘ (1989) – “I’ll have what she’s having!” is the classic line delivered at this sandwich shop following Sally’s fake climax in response to Harry’s boast that none of his one night stands had faked an orgasm. More details here.

  

7.  Tiffany’s, New York (USA): ‘Breakfast At Tiffany’s’ (1966) – The image of Audrey Hepburn in her black evening gown and sunglasses with a pearl necklace around her neck and a coffee and croissant in her hand is an iconic one. She gets out of a yellow cab as the morning light breaks and gazes up at the famous jewellery store sign. All girls love Tiffany’s and who would’ve thought that 18 months after visiting this place with my girlfriend I’d be presenting her with a Tiffany’s engagement ring! More details here.

 

8.  Whittier High School, Los Angeles (USA): ‘Back To The Future‘ (1984) – Marty went back to the past to change his future by getting his parents together in the first place at the ‘Enchantment Under The Sea’ dance at this school. More details here.

 

9. Imperial Palace, Las Vegas (USA): ‘Austin Powers: International Man Of Mystery‘ (1997) – Alotta Fagina’s penthouse suite where Austin shagged her rotten to use his exact words! More details here.

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10. Tiki Motel, Los Angeles (USA): ‘The Terminator‘ (1984) – John Connor was conceived here in what is perhaps the most pivotal point in the whole Terminator franchise. You could stay in the same room where Sarah Connor and Kyle Reese did the deed! More details here.

 

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TF Top 5……Australia Filming Locations

On 12th February 2001 I stepped onto Australian soil for the first time ready to spend a years working holiday travelling around the huge island. Over the years I’ve returned for a couple more visits but it was that original trip which gave me the travel bug and was actually where I visited my first filming locations. To commemorate that visit exactly 13 years on (everyone celebrates 13th anniversaries right!!) we here at Tokyo Fox present you with the TF Top 5……Australia filming locations.

1. Pin Oak Court, Melbourne: ‘Neighbours‘ (1985 – Present) – I’ve now racked up four visits to this famous soap opera street in South Melbourne and it has to be said there’s something exciting about going to a location which features so regularly on our screens. More details here

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2. Palm Beach, Sydney: ‘Home & Away‘ (1988 – Present) – This northern beachside suburb has provided the backdrop for so many of this soap’s memorable moments and is  a great place in its own right whether you’ve seen the show or not. More details here

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3. Bare Island, La Peruse, Bottany Bay: ‘Mission: Impossible II‘ (2000) – The films most iconic image, with Cruise riding his motorcycle through balls of fire as he escapes from the fort, was shot here. More details here

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4. Pitt Street Waterfall, Sydney: ‘The Matrix‘ (1999) and ‘Superman Returns‘ (2006) – A double-dose of movie action took place at this circular fountain. There was the distracting woman in the red dress as part of combat training in the former and Superman saves Lex Luthor’s henchwoman Kitty Kowalski in the latter. More details here & here.

 

5. Kings Canyon: ‘The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert‘ (1994) – Yes, its a very famous landmark and I don’t usually go for them as such but given its isolated location in the middle of such a vast land I feel it justifies inclusion. More details here

 

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SE Asia 2013/14 Pt XI: Bridge On The River Kwai

One of the things I really wanted to do in Bangkok this time was take a day trip to Kanchanaburi to see what provided the backbone to a story which is part of movie folklore and widely considered to be one of the greatest films ever.

Now I don’t have too strong an interest in a lot of history but I was very intrigued to learn more about this fascinating bridge which featured so memorably in ‘The Bridge On The River Kwai‘ (1957). Believe it or not I only watched this classic film for the first time last year and of course I knew before our visit that the bridge seen on the movie screen was actually a far more aesthetically pleasing one shot in Kitulgala in Sri Lanka. Furthermore, despite the title there wasn’t even a bridge over the River Kwai until they changed the name of another river nearby which did have a bridge crossing it. 

 

As the film has been around through seven decades I don’t really need to explain too much of the plot but basically it stars Obi Wan Kenobi who says he’ll pay someone or another 2000 credits in advance and a further 15000 credits on completion of the bridge….or am I mixing up my movie plot lines a bit?!!

 

The day started at 6:30am when we were picked up at our hotel and we then had to endure the tedious nature of picking up other passengers and getting out of Bangkok which took over two hours to do! The first stop was a brief 15 minute one at the Allied War Cemetery; the final resting place for the POW’s who died building the railway.

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Our next destination proved to be the main one but you wouldn’t have thought so given our allocation of time there! I couldn’t believe it when they said we only had 40 minutes at the place which was the focal point of the trip! History should have taught me this as back in 2008 our “James Bond Tour” actually only included thirty minutes on the island so maybe we were doing quite well to get forty! However, this time there was the JEATH museum, picture displays, a market and of the course the bridge itself which could’ve merited the whole time.

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As a result, I had to skip the museum and pretty much photo-bomb (quite apt, possibly inappropriate, to use that word maybe given what happened to the bridge back in 1944!!) the bridge. I rushed around getting my shots and as I was lining up one shot and waiting for the timer to take my own picture the lens on my cheap glasses fell out and typically dropped through the gap in the bridge.

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Just before boarding the bus I saw the chance to get a shot of me with a Leopard. It was 100 THB ($3.5) which is a little expensive by Thai standards but with not much time and very little chance of such an opportunity coming up anytime soon I splashed the cash and gave the young cat its food and drink in return for a photo or three!

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Typically the bus didn’t move on to the next destination for about ten minutes so I guess I could have used that time more productively but its never a good idea to miss deadlines on these tours. The next stop was some very local railway station where we boarded a train to take us along the Death Railway.

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The real highlight of the train journey has to be at Wampo Viaduct (Wang Po) where the train passes through some wonderful scenery. With the majority of the passengers onboard leaning out of the windows snapping away or at least standing over that side of the carriages you have to worry about the stability of the train as it slows down a bit and carefully crosses the creaking viaduct.

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We had lunch on a boat once we disembarked from the train and even that seemed quite rushed! Sai Yok Noi Waterfall was the final stop and we had about 30 minutes there which was nice enough but fairly unnecessary in the scheme of things. It’s not as if it was even a place with loads of souvenir shops or whatever which tourist buses are often dragged to!

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I would’ve much rather had a bit longer at the bridge and if I’m ever in Bangkok again I’ll certainly consider just taking a train to the station near the bridge. I would’ve done that beforehand but fear of the unknown stopped me from doing that!

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James Bond Filming Locations In Bangkok

Thailand’s capital city has featured in a couple of James Bond films; ‘The Man With The Golden Gun‘ (1974) and ‘Tomorrow Never Dies‘ (1997), although Bangkok was used to portray Saigon in Vietnam in the latter.

I think I’ve mentioned on here before that ‘Tomorrow Never Dies‘ was the first 007 flick I actually saw in its entirety and I haven’t looked back since. This film not only opened up my eyes to Bond but to Asia too which, at that time in my life, was a continent I was still very ignorant of.

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Many websites state that the skyscraper which Bond (Pierce Brosnan) and Wai Lin (Michelle Yeoh) descend (above) on 77 minutes on a banner is the Westin Banyan Tree Hotel (21/100 South Sathorn Road, Sathorn) BUT it is actually the Sinn Sathorn Tower on Krung Thonbrui Road, a kilometre down the road, where they make their escape on motorbike (below) leading to what provided the films most memorable action scenes. The building is used as an office and as I looked up at the 44 floor tower to compare it with the screenshots on my phone I could see that it was the same albeit with a little CGI treatment towards its peak. Although, I’m still not 100% sure that it is the building which they jumped off, I have no doubt that it was used for the ground level shots.

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Over two decades prior to that, the Bond production team were in town in 1973 working on ‘The Man With The Golden Gun‘ (1974) in and around Bangkok and perhaps more famously Khao Ping Gan a.k.a. James Bond Island, which first appears on 95 mins, and is  where I visited on my last trip to Thailand in 2008.

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This ninth 007 movie sees Bond on location in Macau, Hong Kong (see those locations here) and Thailand where he’s on the trail of Scaramanga (Christopher Lee) and after his plan to pose as the villain backfires, he is captured and placed in Thai entrepreneur Hai Fat’s dojo where the fighters are instructed to kill him. This was filmed at Muang Boran a.k.a. Ancient Siam (formerly known as Ancient City) in Samut Prakan province. This place, which is the worlds largest outdoor museum, is first seen on 52 minutes and sticks around for some action scenes lasting about six minutes. It was quite amazing how similar this place still looks given the number of decades that have passed since it was filmed. I guess the flagstones in the screenshots (below) were laid by the production team and a huge plant feature now stands in the way of creating a better match-up.

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To be even more precise these scenes were shot at The Dvaravati House which is #18 on the map given when you purchase your ticket. There was absolutely no information on the net about which part of Muang Boran was used in the Bond film so I was well happy when I noticed the building just as we were on our way towards the exit. There is no wooden bridge going over the moat so maybe that was just added by the props department. Who knows? 40 years is a long time so it may have been there back in the 1970s for all we know!

Bond escapes from the Karate School at Muang Boran with the aid of Lt. Hip and his martial art expert nieces and the ensuing boat chase continues on to Damnoen Saduak Floating Market (below) which is over 100km away! From there it goes down Klong Dan (60 minutes) with just about everyone apart from Bond ending up in the water.

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It’s at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel on 65 minutes (below) where Bond is reunited with his British assistant Mary Goodnight. They share dinner but inevitably their evening is interrupted. Anders (Maud Adams) tells Bond that she wants him to kill Scaramanga and will pay him at a boxing venue the next day.

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Many internet sites say that the Boxing Stadium featured on 74 minutes, where Bond discovers Anders dead and meets Scaramanga, was Lumpini Stadium but as 007 exits the place you can see a sign saying that its Ratchadamnoen Stadium. Other sources say that the fighting scenes were shot at Lumpini but the filming was done at Ratchadamnoen but I’m not sure which one. I only had time to visit the former and of course it wasn’t open when I was there so its just more exterior shots I’m afraid!

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The car chase which follows from outside the stadium was shot in the car park at Royal Turf Club and sees them briefly driving with Giant Swing (below) and Wat Suthat in the background.

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The dual with Scaramanga on James Bond Island takes place on 105 mins and is perhaps the films most iconic image. Near to Siam Center are a few signboards giving basic details of how Thailand has featured in movies over the years. Of course there was one for ‘The Beach‘ (2000) and there was also one for James Bond giving brief details of what you’ve read in this entry!

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See other James Bond filming locations by clicking on the links below:

Tokyo        London        Prague        Venice        Como        Istanbul        Las Vegas        Phuket        Vienna        Hong Kong        New York        Panama        Skyfall

Posted in Asia Travel, James Bond, Movie Locations | Tagged , , , , , , , | 19 Comments