TF Top 5……Rules That Japanese Break

Japanese people are famed throughout the world for conforming to society and following rules to the letter of the law unlike in the west where such things result in many of us seeing how far we can bend or get round them.

However, if you dig a little deeper then you can see a few examples of rules which are mostly ignored by a big share of Japanese people and before anyone jumps on their moral high horse, yes, I am aware that these rules may be broken in other countries too. Don’t take this too serious as its just for fun! This is the Tokyo Fox top 5.

1. Using mobiles in the priority seat area – By far the most common rule to be broken. All trains have priority seats at both ends of each carriage with signs above the seats telling passengers to switch off their mobile phone in that area. It is largely ignored.

IMG_3248  Priority Seat ,mark, at Tamachi station, March 15, 2012. Kitazume reports. MIURA PHOTO.

2. Cycling the wrong way down the road – Japan may be a highly developed country but its cyclists are akin to that found in the third world, especially when they disregard laws which are supposed to prevent cyclists from riding against the flow of traffic. From December 13th this year cyclists who disobey this rule may face up to 30 days in prison or a fine of ¥20,000 but given that the police rarely enforce these laws I won’t be holding my breath on that one to change anything. I could probably do a whole top five on just cycling rules which are broken. That’s one for a later date!

3. Going up and down station steps on the wrong side – Maybe not such a major one but the other day I couldn’t even go up the steps I wanted to due to the up side (station steps in Japan stations are marked with up and down sides) being full of hundreds of commuters going down the steps. It’s a common sight to see passengers ascending and descending on the wrong side.

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4. Disposing of broken umbrellas – The Japanese are generally very clean and efficient when it comes to disposing of their rubbish whether it be at home or in the streets. There are pretty much no public bins anywhere and the streets tend to stay clean. However, there are quite a few typhoons in Japan and the locals are quite possibly the most umbrella-conscious nation. Of course these cheap plastic umbrella’s can’t hold up against gale force winds and inevitably break leading to people just dumping them on the streets in huge piles.

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5. Walking in the cycle section at road crossings – At many road crossings there is a section at the side designated for cyclists but it’s often a free-for-all once the little green man starts flashing and many, many people begin to cross the road. Of course the cyclists are far from perfect and often think they are a law to themselves and cycle in the much larger pedestrian section or even try and cut through it.

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Review: Films Set In Japan – Lost In Translation (2003)

This then is the moment I’ve not been looking forward to but the tenth anniversary of ‘Lost In Translation‘ seems to be a good time to give my take on a film which has caused me to have many different feelings of emotion over the last decade. The reason I’ve delayed reviewing this film is that its probably the most famous one and its also one that is loved by so many except me who thinks its just a little bit over-rated.

The Autumn of 2003 was a monumental one for me as it was when I first came to Japan and you’d think that this film coming out at the same time might lead me to have quite an affinity to it……and in some ways I do, but I still can’t get past the fact that it’s quite a dull film and nothing much really happens! There, I’ve said it and now I guess I’ll face the backlash!

For anyone who has seen my guide to the filming locations of ‘Lost In Translation you may be surprised to hear this. That particular piece has been very kind to Tokyo Fox in terms of regular hits but that’s due to the cinematography which fascinates me far more than the content of the film. Tokyo is of course the world I live in and from that aspect I quite enjoy ‘Lost In Translation‘ as a travel documentary but I’ve never really understood why its so popular elsewhere.

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So as you probably already know, washed-up film actor Bob Harris (Bill Murray) and young wife Charlotte (Scarlett Johansson) are in Tokyo for different reasons. Both are lost in their marriages and lives, they’re feeling lonely, they don’t understand the language but together they share these experiences as they delve into both traditional and contemporary Japanese culture and customs. It’s their reactions in these situations that have caused the most controversy. Some people think that the characters in this film come across as spoiled, bored, rich and unsympathetic foreigners but I’m not so sure.

Of course, many people jumped on the moral high horse saying its racist and stereotyping and all the usual nonsense but there’s a reason these generalisations exist and thats because there’s an ounce of truth to them. Sure, some of the scenes afford the Japanese little dignity as the viewer is pushed into laughing at the small locals and their funny ways but that is seemingly what people want when it comes to seeing things about Japan.

I think the western world’s obsession with the whacky side of Japan’s culture gives this film the fuel for its fire with many of the scenes depicting the zaniness of what makes up such a small minor part of its society. I absolutely hated the “lip” my stockings and whacky gun-fire chase scenes which were just bizarre. On the other hand, I did actually like Harris’ appearance on the TV show ‘Matthew’s Best Hit TV‘ (yes, that show really did used to exist!)….even though I usually despise such dumbed-down juvenile TV.

The more ancient customs may be somewhat shoehorned into the film by way of ancient temples and shrines, chanting monks and ikebana but to her credit Charlotte does watch all of this without judgment which is all you can do sometimes as a ‘fish out of water’.

Anyone who has ever spent a bit of time in Tokyo will of course pick faults as is customary when films are made in foreign settings but maybe they’re missing the point as this film is about a couple of American’s who didn’t really choose to visit the Japanese capital but were instead thrown into a situation and did what many often do. The only difference here is that its captured on film and shown to the world. Sure, nothing really climactic or dramatic happens but it’s more about appreciating the atmosphere.

Ten years later, we still have no idea what Bob whispered into Charlotte’s ear at the films climax and to be honest do we really need to?! It wouldn’t make any difference but directors often like to leave audiences thinking at the end and such a scene with a vague message does exactly that. I hope it’s never revealed until the sequel comes along!

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Tokyo Fox Rating 7/10

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Tokyo Daytripper: Hitachi Seaside Park, Ibaraki

Whilst skimming my way through the latest articles on the excellent RocketNews24 website last month, one particular story stuck out under their typically over-long subject headers: ‘Do Not Adjust Your Monitor – Hitachi Seaside Park Really Looks Like This‘. It showed a hillside of kochia shrubs; a large herb that grows in bushes up to about 90cm tall. They are usually green clumps but for about a month at this time of year they turn into a dazzling crimson colour.

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Impressed by such beauty I made a note to take a day trip into Ibaraki-ken this year if the opportunity was there as I believed that they could rival the pink carpet of flowers in the foreground of Mount Fuji which we saw last year.

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Thankfully that chance came last Sunday on a lovely sunny day as my girlfriend and I took a bus from Tokyo station to the entrance at Kaihin Kouen Iriguchi bus stop which cost just over 2000 yen one-way and took two hours twenty minutes which was the easier option. For the record, the train from Ueno to Katsuta Station costs a bit more, takes a little longer and then requires a 25 minute bus ride from there to the entrance. However, this option is far more flexible as the bus only leaves Tokyo at 10.30am and similarly there is only one bus back at 4.43pm.

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The kochia have been this vivid colour since about the middle of September and were predicted to retain their full colour until this weekend. However, they are not the only impressive flowers and plants to be seen in the park as a load of other flowers including cosmos are also visible at this time of year. Cosmos can also be viewed around the parks hill and come in a variety of colours such as pink, white and red.

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Hitachi Seaside Park opens daily at 9:30 a.m. and is a good place for a family day out as it offers bicycle hire, gardens, a BMX course, a seaside cafe, lakes, barbecue area, a seaside train (sounding like a load of synchronised panting dogs) and a theme park. The park and gardens part is actually quite similar to that of Shinrin-Koen in Saitama.

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Click here to see the ‘TF Top 10……Day Trips Beyond Kanagawa, Saitama & Chiba’

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“Hell On Wheels” – My Metropolis Magazine Article

Of the many cycling themed tours of Tokyo I’ve done over the years I’d have to say that perhaps the most satisfying was last October’s ‘Cycling Tokyo’s Most Haunted Sights…In One Day’ trip. It wasn’t so much for the actual cycling or the conditions (of which both were fine) but due to the research involved and what I learned from it all.

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Anyway, one year on and its been given a new lease of life both on here and in Metropolis magazine (as well as its website) who have made it the feature article of their latest issue.

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At the start of September I fired off a fairly lazy copy-and-paste job of last years blog entries to the editor to see if it would be of interest to the Metropolis readers. I got a reply within a few days telling me of their interest but that it would need to be completely re-written as they have a policy of not using anything which is already available on the internet. So I set about re-writing the whole piece and mails went back and forth about ideas of what should (things to take with you on the journey) and shouldn’t (pictures with me in them!) be included and with a bit of editing on their behalf we finally had the finished article. The word ‘we’ was ultimately an important one as, even though I did the journey all alone, they used the royal ‘we’ throughout as is their style.

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Maybe I got my wires crossed for I was expecting it in the issue out on the 25th of October so I was a bit surprised to see it appear on the Metropolis website when I logged on last Friday. I immediately went out to pick up a copy or ten!

If you didn’t see it last year then you can read part 1 here and part 2 here

You can see the article as it appeared in issue #1020 of Metropolis (Oct 11-24) here

Viewing it on the internet is fine but there’s something more appealing and satisfying about seeing it in print and having the publication in hand.

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Dining Out: The Hooters Tokyo Crawl

With my American friend Ethan back in town for a brief visit recently, we met up in a sophisticated and upmarket part of Tokyo for a spot of lunch one afternoon with that restaurant being…….Hooters Ginza!!

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For anyone who doesn’t know, the Hooters chain of restaurants originally started in the USA and are famous for its Hooters girls; the waitresses who wear the regulation uniform consisting of Continue reading

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6 Movies ‘Set’ In Japan But Filmed Elsewhere

Unlike other Asian countries, foreign production companies usually remain faithful to Japan by actually filming on location when need be but there are of course times when other places are used to fill in for the country. One of the most common scenarios is for Japanese scenes to be filmed at Japanese, or even Chinese gardens in the USA, Australia or wherever but the following movies were all faked in some way using other countries to double up as Japan.

* The Karate Kid Part II (1989) – The sequel to the classic 1986 film sees Daniel-san follow Mr Miyagi (Pat Morita) back to the latter’s homeland to see his dying father in Okinawa whilst settling some old scores. Oahu in Hawaii stood in for the southern Japan island. A scenic area called Kahaluu was spotted in an aerial survey from helicopter by the filmmakers 20 miles from Honolulu.

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The place is 43 acres and is covered with palms and a lagoon which once served as a royal fish pond. Thanks to Continue reading

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TF Flashback: Enjoying The Slow Pace of Life On The Island That Aptly Looks Like A Snail (2004)

The beautiful snail-shaped island of Yoron-jima is very close to Okinawa but in fact belongs to Kagoshima prefecture and lies just 25km north of Japan’s hottest climate area. Back in October 2004 (12th-15th) I visited the island via transit in Naha for a few days. Overall, it was a three hour flight including the 40 minute journey between islands.

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We stayed at the Pricia Resort Hotel which is located near the airport (airfield runway!) on the snails head part of the island in the north-west (or the bottom left corner of my scanned postcard above).

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This isle first came to my attention having read a little about it towards the end of Josie Dew’s sizeable book ‘A Ride In The Neon Sun: A Gaijin In Japan‘ which detailed her travels by bicycle around Japan. She ended up sleeping in the shower as Typhoon Doug caused havoc on the island! Cycling seems to be the best way to get round the island as my girlfriend-of-the-time and I ended up hiring bicycles from our hotel every single day!

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On day one we rode around for a couple of hours stopping at some place to do a bit of snorkelling and visited Yoron’s main town Chabana which is basically just a street! Can’t remember too much else other than having a hot spa outside the hotel on its privately owned beach. A spicy meal in the resort’s restaurant followed after that.

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I recall my other half (of the time) going diving which I couldn’t do due to my asthma so I got on my bike again and circled the island as closely as possible. I went snorkelling three times in the beautiful, clear, tropical turquoise waters but the marine breezes were a little stronger than I had anticipated even though it actually was mid-October. Yoron’s beaches possess soft white sands and are genuinely stunning.

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Meeting up back at the resort hotel later on, we played tennis and went for a hot spa. Our third and final day was probably the most exciting for me as we went over to the star-shaped sand island of Yurigahama (above) on the east coast. To get to the tiny sand isle we had to take a thrilling jet-ski ride there and back with some time in between to snorkel offshore at some deeper reefs. I managed to top up my sunburn from the previous day! The sand island only emerges at low tide and was quite a popular draw but I’m only talking a dozen or so people and not the kind of crowds Japanese places often suffer from.

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There is a small heritage centre on Yoron where you can look around the traditional wooden huts and see a machine which was used back in the day for pressing sugar cane by hand. This crop tends to dominate most of the island.

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Tokyo Filming Locations On Google Maps…Finally!!

Since first starting the Tokyo Filming Locations part of this blog in 2009 it has grown into a pretty sizeable piece of work leading to some readers enquiring about whether I had a map detailing whereabouts each and every site is. Of course, addresses of each film location have been detailed in those entries but it has to be said that it’s a lot nicer to  view where they all are and it gives one a better idea of which ones are close to hand.

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Comprehensive, entertaining and exhaustively researched this ‘Tokyo Filming Locations‘ map contains detailed coverage of dozens of films and how each location was used on screen. Films to feature include Lost In Translation, Babel, The Wolverine, You Only Live Twice, Kill Bill: Volume I, Godzilla, The Grudge, The Ramen Girl, The Fast & The Furious: Tokyo Drift and many, many more.

How to use this map: Dip in and pick out what you want to see. Take your time, live the experience, sample the bars and restaurants. While there are plenty of commercial establishments in this list, some are in residential areas and are in fact private property where the owners have no connection or even knowledge of the films. Please respect their privacy.

* Please note that some of the addresses are not exact but are very close and together with the information on this site the two should work together hand in hand to help you find the place you desire.

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Townsend Harris & Zenpuku-ji Temple

Back in June last year I reviewed the rather poor 1958 film ‘The Barbarian & The Geisha as part of the Films Set In Japan feature on this site. The main man in that film was Townsend Harris played by a fairly under-par John Wayne. It may have been Commodore Perry who first opened trade between the US and Japan in 1853 but it was Harris who became the first Consul General to the Empire of Japan three years later.

By 1859 the American government had set up in one of Tokyo’s oldest temples, Zenpuku-ji temple which is at 1-6-21 Moto Azabu and wasn’t exactly easy to find the other day with  just the address code and no map! I must have cycled round the area many times trying to locate it before taking a chance up some side street where I eventually found it.

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These temple grounds have a monument in the centre dedicated to Harris which was one of my reasons for visiting this place. From successful New York merchant and minor politician to the first US Consul General to Japan, Harris negotiated the Treaty of Amity and Commerce in 1858 and basically opened up Japan to foreign trade and culture in the Edo period. The America-Japan society dedicated the stone monument in 1936 on the spot where the first American legation set up.

Of course there is still a level of discrimination against foreigners in Japan but its nothing compared to the enormous hostility that Harris experienced so many of us can be thankful for his impact. He can be held responsible for Western influence in Japan’s economy and politics which can be read as a mix of good or bad things depending on your perspective!

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For me, it was the film that brought the name of Townsend Harris to my attention and though the primary plot is essentially true the love affair subplot is a work of fiction and perhaps one of those things where a theatrical and artistic license is used to make the story more appealing to cinema audiences.

In the movie, Harris has a romance with a geisha named Okichi but there is no evidence that this is true. Still, their story is one of folklore. Harris died in New York in 1878 and, according to legend, Okichi committed suicide in Shimoda in 1892.

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Another reason for taking in this place was to see something with an estimated age of 800+ years. The oldest ginkgo tree in Tokyo with a girth of 10m is housed within the cemetery ground lying beside the shrine. The grave of the man on the 10,000 yen note is also somewhere in this place but I didn’t bother hunting that down.

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The “5th” Tennis Grand Slam of The Year Took Place In Tokyo & I Was There!

Tennis is a bit of a strange sport in this country. So many people say they play it and courts always being booked up seems to prove that. Many of my students profess to being interested in the game yet when Britain’s Andy Murray won the Olympic Gold in 2012 and the Wimbledon title a few months ago, not a soul mentioned it! Maybe that’s because back in the Olympics, NHK were showing the Japanese synchronised swimming team finish about 7th instead of seeing two of the world’s best tennis players battling it out for the gold medal as was the case in most countries around the world.

When I have mentioned Murray to the locals in the past all I’ve got is blank faces! However, they all know Kei Nishikori which is fairly understandable as he’s the number one Japanese player in the men’s game. As far as I’m aware, he’s never made it past the quarter finals of a major tournament but he did win the Rakuten Japan Open last year: the mens-only tournament that follows on from the Toray Pan Pacific Open (TPPO) ladies one which brings me nicely (and finally) on to today’s events.

I didn’t have any real plans to even bother with this year’s finals once Serena Williams had pulled out, and Britain’s Laura Robson was knocked out early on but once the semi-finals had been decided I thought it was a pretty strong line-up featuring Venus Williams as well as the 4th, 5th and 7th seeds; Caroline Wozniaki, Angelique Kerber and Petra Kvitová respectively.

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Ready for a 1:00 pm start, I arrived at the stadium fifteen minutes before that and was interviewed by Nihon TV for a few minutes. They wanted to catch my reaction to some footage they showed me from earlier in the week featuring veteran local heroine Kimiko Date-Krumm.

No doubt it all ended up on the cutting room floor because I don’t think I reacted at all and had to actually ask them what it was I was supposed to be reacting too other than a slightly above-average rally. I was told that the Japanese player was not too happy with the crowd reaction to something or another and I was then asked how I usually react to such rallies. I suppose it might have made it on to TV just so a load of Japanese can sit around over-reacting (as they usually do!) to an underwhelming reaction by a white guy!

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I’d love to see whether the $2,369,000 prize money ($426,000 for the champion) on offer at this tournament is recovered in any way given the fairly poor crowds for this tournament. While it seemed a little busier than my previous visits in 2010 and 2012 it was still no more than 40% full……at best!

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Within minutes of taking my seat (of course not my real 3000 yen seat high up in the stadium but a block further down!) I was most shocked to see a load of doubles players come out. I was thinking that, compared to previous years, they must have switched the order of play round with the doubles games first followed by the singles.

I really don’t like watching doubles and so was thinking I may as well have stayed home for a few more hours. In a way it would make sense to switch them as it would mean more people seeing the semis either at the stadium or on TV once they’d finished work. It would also be slightly better for American and European TV companies should they wish to show the tournament which I, and only I, call the “fifth grand slam of the year!!”

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Anyway, once the first doubles match had concluded I went about finding the order of play and was relieved to see that it was the singles matches up next albeit with an hour wait till 3:30 pm. First on court was the former number one Venus Williams against Petra Kvitová; the 2011 Wimbledon champion. Seven times grand slam winner Williams started very well winning the first set 6-3 but Kvitová fought back to win the second 6-3 and the tie was decided by a tie-breaker (unlike in grand slams) with the Czech Kvitová winning that with relative ease.

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The second semi followed on pretty soon afterwards and was a much better tennis match with both Caroline Wozniaki of Denmark and Germany’s Angelique Kerber both putting in some pretty powerful backhand and forehand shots as well as less grunting. Mind you, it took the former a while to get into the swing of things as Kerber raced into an early 5-1 lead before finally taking the first set 6-4.

Despite that though, the momentum seemed to have swung in favour of Wozniaki but she could never break Kerber’s serve enough to make the second set count and it was also decided in a tie-break which I was very grateful for as I was starving and wanted to get home.

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So the reigning champion Kvitová plays Kerber in the final tomorrow, and based on their performances today I would fancy the German to just shade it.

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